Posts Tagged tonga

Me At Work (Sort of)

We had a slow morning a couple of days ago, so when we came across an unidentified red-brown shape paddling its way across the ocean, I jumped in to take a look.

It turned out to be a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs.

Tony Wu photographing female crab with eggs
This is me honing my mid-ocean crustacean photography skills…

Crabs aren’t known for being genial, but this one was particularly pugnacious, perhaps because of the precious cargo she was transporting.

I tried being friendly, but she wouldn’t have any of it; she just scowled, simmered, and snapped. Sigh.

Within short order, the crab descended into the abyss…all the while wielding her pincers with vim and vigour…leaving no doubt whatsoever about her considerable disdain for oversized, appendage-challenged individuals like me.

...and this was my belligerent subject, a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs
…and this was my belligerent subject, a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 4

I was land-bound for much of the past week (only went out on the water on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday), but it’s certainly been an eventful few days.

First, the weather has been fickle. We had mostly sunny days with strong winds until Serene, May, Trevor, Minako, Geri and Maria left. Then “poof!”, the winds disappeared and seas flattened, but cloud cover moved in with scattered showers.

It’s definitely better to have low winds with clouds than blistering winds with sun, but all things considered, I’d really appreciate a period of low winds and sunshine at the same time. I’ve filled in the appropriate forms in triplicate and filed them with the relevant sun, sky, sea and wind bureaucracies…so we’ll see what the upcoming week brings.

We’re up to 28 ID-ed calfs now (woohoo!), and we’ve also had some repeat sightings of a couple of babies we catalogued earlier.

In addition, I received a report from my friend Wendy who was in Ha’apai (separate island group in Tonga) aboard the Nai’a about a potential sighting of a half-tailed female whale we’ve previously named Konga Hiku.

It would be exciting enough to see Konga Hiku back in Tongan waters, but Wendy says the whale in question has a calf with her, so that would make a confirmed re-sighting all the more meaningful. Wendy wasn’t able to take a photo, but she’s put out an APB via Nai’a to ask passengers for the rest of the season to get a photo if possible. Keeping fingers crossed!

Baby, Baby, Baby
As I mentioned above, we’re at 28 babies right now. That’s pretty amazing.

To put this into some perspective: Our all-time high to date was 31 babies in 2009.

During that year, I was in Tonga from 8 August to 11 September. We counted 26 babies by the time I left. Friends and other visitors to Vava’u then kindly contributed five additional IDs, making a total count of 31.

This season, I also arrived on 8 August, the same date as I did in 2009. Our count of 28 baby humpbacks so far is through yesterday, 4 September…which means we’ve already exceeded our 2009 final tally of 26 by two babies…with several days to spare.

At this pace, I’m almost entirely certain that we’ll pass 31 within this week, and I’m really hoping for more than 40 by the time I leave at the end of September.

Still on track for a record number of humpback whale babies (black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010). Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.
Still on track for a record number of humpback whale babies
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010).
Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.

Besides confirming several new calf IDs, we’ve also had some repeat-sightings this week:

- 31 August: Hiva, calf #9, originally ID-ed on 19 August (13-day interval)
- 01, 02, and 03 September: Tahafa, calf #14 (the injured calf), originally ID-ed on 23 August (10- to 12-day interval)

Less-than-ideal visibility (even far offshore) has continued to make taking underwater photos difficult, and the “neutral” whale behaviour I alluded to in previous updates has for the most part continued.

We still haven’t had any Ikumi-esque encounters…meaning extended quality time with a chilled-out mom and an engaged baby. I know that there have been some good encounters, but they’ve been few and far between, especially considering the number of whales around.

One possible contributor to this may be the number of mom/ calf pairs that have been accompanied by escorts, especially in recent days. In most cases, the escorts seem to have been “pushing” the female whales and their babies along, reflected in the whales’ non-stop swimming and erratic twists and turns. (Refer to the Two Timer discussion in Part 3).

It’s important to note that this type of behaviour is taking place with or without boats nearby. We’ve watched mom/ calf/ escorts from afar…looking on as the whales zigged, zagged, sped up, slowed down…basically did everything but stop and sit still.

Uaono (calf #26) with mom. Low viz, cloudy skies and nonstop whales makes ID-ing difficult
Uaono (calf #26) with mom. Low viz, cloudy skies
and nonstop whales makes ID-ing difficult

With Uaono (calf #26) for instance, we watched as the mom/ calf/ escort trio pinballed haphazardly around the area between Tungasika and White Patch. At one point, we saw mom and baby head one way, and escort head another. Right after I pointed and remarked: “Hey, what’s going on?”, the escort breached several times, while cow and calf swam away.

One of the things Ongo, my whale mentor in Vava’u, used to say to me was: “When a female rejects an escort, the males often breach in frustration.” I was sceptical when he first shared this observation with me many years ago, but I’ve seen this scenario play out often enough now that I’m certain he was correct.

Unfortunately though, Uaono and mom didn’t appear to take comfort in the escort’s disappearance. They slowed down for a bit, then took off at top speed toward White Patch and straight out to sea, making it impossible to get a good look in the water.

Talking Toku
Recent arrivals Dan, Kozy, Sean, Nana and Ray had their first day on the water on Friday.

It was cloudy, but the winds were down, so we decided to head to Toku, a small island located about 40km from Vava’u. I had only been there once before (last year) and had a kick-@** time, so I decided it was worth taking the group there, even if they still hadn’t had the opportunity to learn the ropes.

The calculated risk paid off.

Breaching humpback whale that put on quite a show
Breaching humpback whale that put on quite a show

Before reaching the island, we saw blows all over the place. We started to follow a pair of whales, hoping for an in-water encounter right away. As luck would have it, we weren’t able to see them underwater, but that was because the larger of the two whales put on a spectacular, non-stop breaching show for us.

I’m not sure how long the breach-bonanza lasted, but we followed for quite a while, perhaps an hour or more. The pertinent whale repeatedly took two to three breaths, dived, and fifteen seconds or so later…breach!!! Everyone took photos. Nana even posted iPhone snaps. How many people can boast of taking close-up humpback whale breaching photos on an iPhone?

After that, we spent the rest of the day with two mother/ calf/ escort trios, both in pretty much the same area. Though both groups of whales moved non-stop (despite my desperate pleas of: “Cut me some slack guys!”), we managed a number of drops with Uatolu (calf #23, a little baby girl) in shallow water.

If conditions permit, we’ll definitely head for Toku again in the coming days.

Little baby Uatolu (calf #23, female) going for a stroll with her mom
Little baby Uatolu (calf #23, female) going for a stroll with her mom

Update: Injured Calf
Below is a close-up photo of the Tahafa (calf #14), the injured baby that I discussed in last week’s update.

Shawn and John observed this baby on 01 September (10 days after we first ID-ed the baby), and noted that the juvenile seemed lethargic and lacked energy/ spunk. This, of course, had us worried.

Over the next two days, however, Emiko and Takaji had two additional encounters, during which time the baby breached and played a lot, appearing for all practical purposes to be as healthy as any other little whale…much to our collective relief.

The precise cause of the baby’s injuries is still a topic of discussion/ debate here. I continue to believe that the balance of probability lies with an attack by a group of marine mammals, but another theory put forth by credible/ experienced people here suggests a boat collision as a possible cause.

While we may never know the actual cause with complete certainty, we certainly all hope that this baby thrives and returns in the future. We’ll most likely be able to recognise this whale by the missing anterior portion of its dorsal fin.

Top-down view of Tahafa's (calf #14) injuries
Top-down view of Tahafa’s (calf #14) injuries

White Pecs
Well…we’re up to eight whales with all-white or nearly all-white pectoral fins now.

That’s fascinating enough, given the relative paucity of white-handed whales here in most seasons, but even more exciting…the latest white pec is a calf I ID-ed yesterday, Uafitu (calf #27). This is the first time I’ve ever seen a calf here with all-white pectoral fins.

We came across this calf entirely by accident, while we were waiting for a singer. This special baby, along with mom and escort, literally “popped up” of the blue, taking us by surprise.

From above, we could see that the baby had all-white pectoral fins, so it was particularly nerve-wracking when the whales eluded us for several minutes, despite flat-calm conditions.

True to the escort-induced-ping-pong-pattern of motion that’s been all-too-common of late, this trio was difficult. There was no predictable method to their madness, so following them was more gut instinct than measured approach. It took a few tries, but in the end, I was able to get up-close ID-shots of the baby.

Uafitu (calf #27), the first humpback whale baby I've seen with all-white pectoral fins
Uafitu (calf #27), the first humpback whale baby I’ve seen with all-white pectoral fins

I’ve been keeping an eye out for whales with all-white pectoral fins here since I noticed a similar surge in their numbers back in 2006. This fluke morph is relatively more common in the northern hemisphere, so it was natural to wonder whether there could possibly be crossover from north to south.

Back in ’06, some researcher friends were kind enough to forward me a couple of research papers that suggested such a phenomenon might be possible. But even so, it shouldn’t be a common occurrence if it takes place at all, given the disparity in seasons and locations of the two populations at any given time in the year.

Sighting this baby now provides me with proof-positive that white-handed babies are born in the south. Probably not too exciting for most people…but a major thrill for me!

Headcount: +11, -2
As you may have gathered, this past week was a period of transition for my groups of visitors.

Besides sending off eight people during the week, I was scheduled to have five people arrive from Japan and six people from other countries…Taiwan, Thailand, the US, Canada and Russia.

But on Tuesday, I lost the Russian. Followed by one of the Japanese. Instead of 11 people, I ended up with only nine.

We all miss you Andrey, Yokomoto-san!

Both people had their travel plans interrupted due to minor bureaucratic snafus. In Andrey’s instance, transiting through Australia required a visa, even though he wasn’t ever setting foot in the country. Silly, but this requirement is more common than you might imagine.

In Yokomoto-san’s case, Tonga (like many other countries) requires tourists to have at least six months of validity remaining for their passports. He had four or five.

In both cases, the relevant bureaucracies were unable/ unwilling to help, which sadly meant cancelled trips.

To try to learn from this unfortunate turn of events…if you are planning an upcoming trip to any destination, please make sure that you don’t need visas for transit, and also that you have at least six months left (from your planned date of entry to the country concerned) before your passport expires.

Intrepid travellers who left this week: Geri, Minako (oops! hat only visible), Serene, Trevor, May and Maria
Intrepid travellers who left this week:
Geri, Minako (oops! only hat visible), Serene, Trevor, May and Maria

Time to Look for Whales!

I’ve been land-bound for the past few days: making lots of trips to the airport to send friends off and greet new arrivals; dealing with a number of logistical issues; giving a short presentation on humpback whales last night; and just giving myself a bit of a break…I’m half-way through my two-month stay, so it’s good to take a few days off the water.

Fortunately, the calf count initiative has progressed even though I’ve been on land.

Friends have ID-ed three new babies during my dry spell, and re-sighted two that we previously recorded. As of now, we’re up to 22 ID-ed humpback whale mother/ calf pairs…still on course for a new high.

My friends Serene, May, Minako, Trevor, Geri and Maria are on their way home now. Nana, Sean, Dan, Kozy and Ray have arrived (I unfortunately lost one traveller due to last-minute visa issues)…so I’ll be hitting the water again from tomorrow. Can’t wait!

Wristwatch with humpback whale illustration
It’s time to look for humpback whales again

Me At Work

This is me. At work. In Tonga. Looking for whales.

Tony Wu aka Keroro
Me at work, surrounded by saluting manga amphibians

I’m sporting my oh-so-stylish whale-watching attire comprising the only pair of sunglasses I’ve ever managed to keep intact for more than a few days ($14.99 polarised pair I picked up at Target); a hat with a built-in back-flap to minimise sunburn on my ears and neck (I have sensitive skin); and my custom-made neoprene coat to keep me warm after prolonged immersion (I get cold easily).

Chic, no?

Vania, one of the six people who joined my first trip in Tonga this season, took this photo. And then embellished it.

From what I gather, I remind her of a Japanese manga character named Keroro…a green frog who, like me, is at the cutting edge of fashion.

I’m not actually familiar with this animated character, but since it appears that Keroro-san merits salutes from an entire phalanx of multi-hued two-dimensional amphibian shock troops…I’ll take it as a compliment.

Thanks Vania!

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 3

If I had to pick a single word to characterise this past week in Vava’u, I’d say “tough”.

Early in the week, the winds picked up significantly, staying a pretty constant 25-30 knots, only coming down to the 15-20 knot range on Saturday. If you’ve never been at sea in a small craft, 25-30 knots is bearable, but certainly not comfortable.

With swells hitting two to four metres in some places, it’s difficult swimming as well…which in practicality meant that our search area was restricted, and there were times when whales were around, but we had to forego getting into the water, because safety always comes first.

Subjectively, it seemed like there were fewer whales in the area than in the past couple of weeks. Fewer blows, fewer encounters, with several days during which most of the whale-watching boats didn’t have any substantive encounters.

Maybe the cetaceans are all off doing something…heat runs out in the blue perhaps?…and will be back soon. Of course, the fact that all the boats have been restricted by the winds and sloppy seas may have also contributed to this impression. It’s conceivable that there were whales in the areas that we were unable to visit.

Within this context though, there were still lots of babies around. I was able to ID six more little humpback whales, bringing the tally to 18. There were also at least four babies that we came across, but weren’t able to ID due to prevailing conditions. Bummer for my ID count, but good to see that the population of juveniles is continuing to grow.

Banner Baby Boom
The good news this week is that the banner baby boom is proceeding according to schedule. Updating my graph from last week (taken from my 2010 humpback whale calf count summary file), it looks like the number of humpback whale babies that I’ve been able to ID may be progressing along the same slope as in previous years, but phase-shifted forward a bit.

Graph of humpback whale calf IDs in Tonga
The number of humpback whale babies continues to grow.
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010)

Given that the slope has been similar over the past three years, I sort of expected to see this progression, but it’s certainly good to have confirmation with real data…at least to this juncture. I still have a month left, though. Who knows what can happen in that time?

Weather will certainly be a big factor, and losing Sundays out on the water restricts our search time, but if this pace continues and the slope of calf IDs ends up being similar to previous years, we will reach the highest number of ID-ed calfs since I started this effort.

I’m so keeping my fingers crossed!

The dirty water I made reference to last week continues to plague us. The high winds have stirred up sediments, making some areas in really murky. There are certainly places with better visibility, but we’re searching every nook and cranny in order to cover as much area as conditions permit.

Most of our sightings this week have been in the east and in the inner waterways, due in large part to our inability to get further out. The weather forecast says the winds will begin settling soon, so when they do, we’ll be able to extend our search a greater distance from home base.

Humpback whale mother and calf. Tahaua is an adorable baby girl.Third encounter with Tahaua (calf #12) and mom.
Tahaua is an adorable baby girl.

Injured Calf
We came across an injured calf on Tuesday, August 23. Actually, we had heard about it the day before. There was chatter among the whale-watch boats about a wounded calf, possibly attacked by a big predator like a tiger shark.

When we came across the baby whale (which I ID-ed as Tahafa, calf #14), the wounds were clearly visible. There were a couple of large chunks missing from its dorsal surface, and the front part of its dorsal fin was gone.

Front view. Wounds clearly visible on Tahafa's (calf #14) dorsal surface. The anterior portion of its dorsal fin appears to have been bitten off.
Front view. Wounds clearly visible on Tahafa’s (calf #14) dorsal surface.
The anterior portion of its dorsal fin appears to have been bitten off.

I can see why everyone would be concerned, but one look in the water was all it took to see that the calf was perfectly healthy, happy and energetic.

It’s impossible to predict whether this calf will make it all the way through the high-risk period of growing up and then travelling down south to feed and mature, but unless some serious infection sets in, these wounds won’t cause it much trouble.

Moreover, one look at the wounds and it’s pretty obvious that they’re unlikely to be from a tiger shark. Tiger sharks are scavengers and opportunistic feeders. It’s difficult (though not entirely impossible) to conceive of a tiger trying to take a perfectly healthy, fast-swimming calf with a big mom next to it.

The bite sizes look more like they were made by something else. After discussing with Shawn, we’ve come to the conclusion that the most likely culprits are a pack of marine mammals, perhaps pilot whales. I’ve seen lots of pilot whales here (we swam with a big pack last season), and they are certainly cooperative hunters, so it’s a possibility.

In addition to the actual wounds, there were many scratches and scars on the baby’s body that looked like they might have been aborted/ failed bite marks.

The visibility was pretty bad when we came across this mother/ calf pair, but in any case, the baby looked and behaved just fine.

Wounded humpback whale calf
Tahafa (calf #14) with mom. The calf has visible wounds on its dorsal surface,
but was otherwise healthy and energetic.

Two Timer
One particularly interesting encounter for me over the past few days was with a horny male. I’m referring, of course, to an escort whale.

Early on Friday the 26th, we came across a humpback whale mother, baby and escort in the general area of Tapana and Euakafa. The winds were high and the seas frothy…meaning it was difficult to follow the trio.

Given the prevailing conditions, it would’ve been nice if the whales had taken pity on us by sitting still, or travelling slowly if they needed to travel at all…but no. They pinged back-and-forth in erratic patterns, diving for short periods sometimes, disappearing for ten minutes or more in other instances…but in all cases, not making it easy for us.

We went downwind, upwind, sidewind, over waves, into waves, through waves…going every which way you can possibly imagine…for around three hours…with the incessant bouncing pounding my brain into a mushy pulp in the process.

During that time, the whales lost us a few times…like totally ditched us…reappearing way far away from where we expected.

The thing is, it wasn’t as if they were in any rush, and they weren’t avoiding the boat per se. This is just what they were doing…before we found them, while we followed them, and long after we left them.

I managed to get into the water with them only twice.

The first time, the mother turned to take a look at me. From experience, I was sure that her body language indicated curiosity and interest. The baby’s certainly did. But then they took off again and kept up the aquatic ping-pong act.

On the second drop, the mom actually stopped, probably to take a breather. When she brought the baby up, she passed right by, staring me in the eye, and once again…looking for all practical purposes to be friendly.

Imagine how puzzled I was when the trio took off once more in a perfect illustration of Brownian motion.

Despite the aquatic acrobatics, I managed to get good enough photos to ID the calf as Tahafitu, calf #17 of the season.

Tahafitu (calf #17 of the 2011 season) with mom in awful visibility. The escort that was pushing them along is visible below.
Tahafitu (calf #17 of the 2011 season) with mom in awful visibility.
The escort that was pushing them along is visible below.

Fast-forward to the next morning, when we came across another mom, calf and escort in roughly the same area.

When I saw this trio, the first thought in my head was: “Oh no, please not again!”

The first dorsal fin I saw break the surface was the escort. I couldn’t be 100% certain, but it looked to me like it was the same escort as the previous day…an observation that only exacerbated my sense of dread.

When the mom and baby appeared though, I breathed a sigh of relief, because the mom’s dorsal was completely different from Tahafitu’s (calf #17) mom.

My relief was short-lived however, as this trio took us on a guided tour of the vicinity that put the previous day’s experience to shame. Back-and-forth, back-and-forth, back-and-forth, over-and-over, over-and-over, over-and-over…you get the picture.

We managed three drops into the water, which was really mucked up. Visibility was poor (such an understatement), meaning it was difficult to get ID photos. To make things worse, the first drop happened so suddenly that I didn’t have my camera on (I really need a sign that says…Caution: Professional at work), and on the second drop, the whales swam up-sun of us, meaning we had a terrific view of backlit sand, grit, and other miscellaneous stuff in the water between us and them.

The third and final drop didn’t look too good either: visibility was still bad, and the whales swam away.

But…I had another one of those moments, like the one I described to in Part 1, in reference to ID-ing Fa (calf #4) on Day Six. Even though the whales had long passed, I continued to swim, partly out of hope, mostly out of desperation and frustration.

I maintained visual contact with the trio in the haze, and after perhaps 20 seconds or so, I saw the mom execute a slow, graceful 180 and head straight toward me.

She apparently caught the escort off guard, as the third whale continued on its previous trajectory.

I stopped and watched as the mom approached, bringing the baby (which I ID-ed as Tahavalu, calf #18 of the season) to within touching distance of me, once again slowing down to make eye contact and give me time to take photos.

Tahavalu's (calf #18 of the 2011 season) mom brought the calf directly to me, in really bad visibility with the sun on the wrong side
Tahavalu’s (calf #18) mom brought the calf directly to me,
in really bad visibility with the sun on the wrong side

Then, without warning, the mom and baby thumped their flukes and took off at high speed. It was only then that I saw the escort approaching at high speed, flying past and heading off in hot pursuit of the cow and calf.

So…here’s what I figured out: After I got back and downloaded photos, I confirmed that my initial observation was correct. The escort was the same on both days. I cross-checked markings on the dorsal fin, torso and right pectoral fin. There’s no mistake.

Two days; two different females; same randy male.

My “feeling” on both days was that the females were friendly, probably favourably disposed to us. This didn’t jive with their frenetic behaviour though.

I got the sense that the escort, however, “pushed” the females and their babies forward on both occasions, a feeling that was supported by the marked change I saw in Tahavalu’s (calf #18) mom’s behaviour when the escort wasn’t around and when it was.

In short…it’s quite possible that neither calf #17’s mom nor calf #18’s mom cared for this particular escort’s overtures, which may help explain the whales’ erratic movements on both days. The mommies were trying to send a clear message to the suitor: “Scram!”, but the escort was too thick-headed and/ or juiced with testosterone to comprehend.

(It’s a good thing that’s never happened to me.)

Besides the obvious fact that I documented a two-timing humpback whale male, it’s also interesting to note the difference in the way these two females treated this escort, with the intimate manner in which Tolu’s mom (calf #3 of the season) interacted with her escort, as I described in Part 2.

The take-away observations for me are first, that humpback whale females clearly have preferences. Some guys do it for them; others don’t. I figured this was the case, but it’s nice to have such clear confirmation.

And second, that in-water observation provides insights that would be difficult to achieve by other means.

Incidentally…I’ve also seen sperm whale males “loved” by all the females in a family group, and others unanimously rejected by them. Take from that what you will.

Note: After drafting this post, I remembered that Shawn had shown me a photo he took on 25 August of a mom, baby, escort from outside Hunga. The shot was from behind, and a bit far, so we couldn’t ID it at that time, but I recalled that the escort looked similar to this one I described above. I took another look, and sure enough, it was the same escort. The mom and baby on that day were Tahafitu (calf #17) and mom. So Shawn documented this calf one day before I named it. Cool, huh?

Comparison of escort whale's dorsal fin: Left taken with calf #18 on 27 Aug; Right taken with calf #17 on 26 Aug.
Comparison of escort whale’s dorsal fin:
Left taken with calf #18 on 27 Aug; Right taken with calf #17 on 26 Aug.

Searching for Patterns/ Speculation
I still have a month+ to go here in Tonga, but it’s getting to be that time again when I start looking for patterns and speculate about what’s going on based upon what I’ve seen during the season. It’s early yet, but here are a few things that I’ve been mulling over this week:

Pace of Calf IDs
The numbers and timing of mother/ calf pair IDs vary each year, but one observation that seems to be emerging from the data I’ve collected in the past few years is that the slope of the graph depicting the pace of IDs is similar.

Perhaps this doesn’t come as a big surprise, but it’s good to have patterns derive from data, rather than conjecture or assumption. If this year’s calf-sighting slope is once again similar to those of previous seasons, then it underscores the possibility that this is a pattern.

I know from friends who live here that the whales in general showed up early this season. Consistent with this fact, it seems like the slope of our IDs is holding true to past years, but phase-shifted forward a little. It will be interesting to see how this develops over the next few weeks.

Humpback whale calf with mother and escort
Second encounter with Tahatolu (calf #13)
with mom and escort swimming below. Tahatolu is a playful little boy.

Patterns of Behaviour
Patterns of behaviour among the whales here change from season to season.

In 2009 for instance, there were lots of mother/ calf pairs around, many of which were very settled, meaning they’d just sit still and let the babies play.

In 2010, there weren’t as many mother/ calf pairs as the previous season, and they seemed much less settled, in general unwilling to sit still (with the exception of Ikumi and mom).

This year, it’s looking as if we’ll end with more mother/ calf IDs than the 31 pairs in 2009, but the whales seem to be “neutral”, for lack of a better term. Of the 18 mother/ calf pairs I’ve ID-ed this season, none have really been terribly interactive, and only a few actively avoided contact.

Most seem not to be avoiding people per se, but it’s more like they’re going about their business, not too concerned about whether we’re there or not. In practicality, this means that it’s been difficult to “get to know” any particular baby well.

There have been a few extended, interactive encounters with mother/ calf pairs, but overall, not a high proportion relative to the number of babies in the area.

Also of note, it seems like there’s been a lot of breaching this season. I’ve seen breaching whales almost every day I’ve been here, sometimes several times a day. I recall that in 2005, there was a lot of breaching as well. I took a lot of breaching photos that year. In other seasons, there’s been some, but not nearly as much I’ve seen this year or in 2005.

Patterns of Physical Characteristics
In many years, there seem to be shared patterns of physical characteristics that appear among a number of whales, but seem not to appear again in appreciable quantity in other seasons. I can’t be 100% sure of the following observations, because I don’t see every whale, but the apparent occurrence of common physical traits on a season-by-season basis is something that’s nagged me for many years.

Last year, there seemed to be a disproportionate number of predominately black whales. This year, there are certainly some around, but most of the whales are some variation of the southern-hemisphere archetype of being dark on top, with white on the belly and some on the sides.

In 2006, I photographed a number (I recall something like six to eight) of whales with all-white pectoral fins, meaning white on both sides. In other years, I haven’t seen many. So far this season, I’ve photographed three, and Shawn has photographed one. There may have been another sighting, which I’m trying to track down now.

Humpback whale with all white pectoral fins!
The third whale with all-white pectoral fins I’ve photographed this season.
This looked like it was the male in a courting pair. Visibility underwater was horrible!

Last season, we saw several (4-5) whales with split dorsal fins, most likely not due to injury. I don’t recall seeing split dorsals in any other season.

This year, I’ve photographed five whales with a black central region on the ventral surface of their flukes. I haven’t noticed this pattern before, but it’s entirely possible that I just wasn’t looking.

Humpback whale baby playing at ocean surface
Tolu (calf #3 of the season) is one of five whales
I’ve photographed this season with this fluke pattern.

What does all this mean? I’m not sure. Perhaps it’s a clue to something very important; perhaps it’s just coincidence.

But as I stare at images each night, I keep looking for patterns, because where there are patterns, there is often meaning.

Ambitious Mission Statement

You certainly can’t fault this company for having low aspirations:

Funny Engrish
Now this is an ambitious mission statement!

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 2

Quick-and-dirty summary of the past week: Moderate, fickle winds shifting directions on a regular basis; some rain and cloud cover, but nothing too bad; more whale-watching boats on the water this week than the previous week; fewer tourists and less yacht traffic viz the average for this time of year; lots and lots of baby humpback whales; more breaching activity than I’ve seen in several years.

Fitu (calf #7 of the 2011 season) with mom. Note the unusual clover-like mark on the calf's dorsal surface.
Fitu (calf #7 of the 2011 season) with mom.
Note the unusual clover-like mark on the calf’s dorsal surface.

Dirty Dozen
The big news of the week is that our mother/ calf ID count is up to 12 pairs now. That’s triple the number I ended last week with, and double to quadruple the figure at this same time in the past few years.

As you can see from the graph below (which I excerpted from my 2010 humpback whale calf count summary file), we’re on track to surpass the 2009 count of 31 mother/ calf pairs. I’m hoping to end the season with at least 32.

Humpback whale calf census in Tonga
Our calf ID count is proceeding at a record pace this season.
(2008 = black, 2009 = blue, 2010 = red)

Hitting 32 would be great. It would be satisfying to achieve a record calf count this year, as I set out a case for the possibility of a banner baby year this season when I wrapped up in 2010. But more importantly, surpassing our 31-calf count in 2009 would be a positive indication for the health and recovery of the southern hemisphere humpback whale population…which is, after all, the most important thing.

I know there are more babies around, but it’s simply not possible to get to every calf that’s spotted each day. Plus, we are confined to land for seven Sundays this season due to the restrictions on tourism in Vava’u, meaning I’m losing a week’s worth of working time.

Reinforcements have arrived though. My friends Shawn and John just got here to continue filming for a documentary project (they were here last season too), so I’ll have more eyes on the water for the next couple of weeks.

Having an extra boat out on the water with reliable, competent people will be invaluable.

Lima (calf #5 of the 2011 season) and mom with two escorts, travelling at high speed
Lima (calf #5 of the 2011 season) and mom with two escorts, travelling at high speed

There are a few things I think worth mentioning at this stage about our calf sightings.

First, many of our encounters this season have been in murky water, with really bad visibility. This makes ID-ing even more challenging, as we need to be able to make out unique features on the mother/ calf pairs to be confident about the IDs.

To complicate matters, quite a few of the moms have seemed particularly shy. It’s normal for some proportion of the female humpbacks we encounter to be evasive, but subjectively, there seems to be a high ratio this year.

The practical implication of bad visibility + shy moms for my ID effort is that for quite a few mother/ calf pairs, we only have a few shots…from behind, at a distance, in murky water. Certainly not ideal, but fortunately, still workable…with lots of squinting and hand-wringing.

Another implication is that it’s been more difficult than in previous seasons to determine the sex of the baby whales we’ve seen. In order to sex the little ones, I need to be able to see/ photograph their undersides, which means being reasonably close and having time to observe. So far, I’ve only been able to determine the sex of three of the 12 babies: two males and one female.

Finally, there have been people who’ve argued over the years that there are few/ no baby whales in the inner island areas, especially in places with frequent boat traffic. This argument has been used as attempted justification to create restrictions on boat traffic and/ or to ban whale watching/ whale swimming.

Over the past couple of seasons, we’ve used GPS to mark our calf encounters, and have demonstrated that humpback whale mother/ calf pairs make use of all the waters around Vava’u, including the inner waterways.

This season is shaping up the same way. This past week, for example, we’ve come across mother/ calf pairs next to Luamoko, by Tungasika, near Matamaka, and off of Oto.

I’m certainly not saying that boats and people don’t need to be careful in the inner waterways, but I am saying that discussion of this nature need to be resolved based on fact, not emotional fervour.

Sunset in Vava'u on Wednesday. Red skies at night were a good sign for the following day.
Sunset in Vava’u on Wednesday.
Red skies at night were a good sign for the following day.

Sex Change
I made a mistake last week.

Tolu (calf #3) is not female. She is now a he; or more accurately, he was never a she.

I’m not sure how I made that mistake, but it’s probably because my days are so packed, and I’m doing all my file downloading, GPS recording, note-taking and calf ID-ing at night, when I’m just bloody exhausted.

Anyway, I caught the mistake because we had a third encounter with Tolu this week, meaning that Tolu and mom have been in Vava’u for at least eight days (first encounter on 11 Aug, second on 13 Aug, most recent on 18 Aug).

Tolu’s mom was quite shy during our first two encounters, making it difficult to get really good photos. Tolu, if you recall, is an extremely playful calf that reminded me of Ikumi from last year, with a wound on his abdomen that looks like it resulted from an unfortunate encounter with a fishing line or other similar rope.

Anyway, in this third encounter, Tolu and mom were accompanied by an escort. In many instances, escorts stir things up. They often push the mom and baby along, keeping the whales moving and making it relatively difficult to have good encounters. This was the case with Lima, calf #5, which was accompanied by two escorts, as well as for Fitu (calf #7) and Valu (calf #8) which were both travelling at high speed with escorts.

Humpback whale calf with mother and escort
Little Tolu being allowed to go off and play on his own,
while mom and escort make like lovebirds below

In this case, the escort seemed to have a calming effect on Tolu’s mom. She was relaxed, chilled out, totally unconcerned with where her baby was playing. She let Tolu tail-slap and flop around at the surface alone, head over to play with people, and generally do as he pleased…while she and the escort cruised along, often touching one another, in what appeared to be lovey-dovey bliss. Complete contrast to the first two encounters.

I write that half tongue-in-cheek, but that’s really what it seemed like. Tolu’s mom must have really, really liked this particular escort. His presence completely pacified her.

The upshot was that Tolu was allowed to play with us, and I was able to take really good photos of his abdomen, showing that Tolu is a definitely a he.

[Note: In case you’re not familiar with the concept of an escort whale, it’s basically a horny male that’s hanging out with a female with a kid already, perhaps in hopes of getting some action.]

Humpback whale calf Tolu playing at the surface, while mom (right) and escort cruise together below
Humpback whale calf Tolu playing at the surface,
while mom (right) and escort cruise together below

For comparison, here is photo of Tahataha (calf #11), showing her developing mammary slits. Boys like Tolu don’t have those.

Tahataha (calf #11 of the 2011 season) with mom, in extremely bad visibility. Inset shows the calf's mammary slits
Tahataha (calf #11 of the 2011 season) with mom,
in extremely bad visibility. Inset shows the calf’s mammary slits

The Week Ahead
For the upcoming week, friends from Japan, the US and Singapore are here with me. We’ll be out on three boats looking for great encounters, and hoping to add to the calf count if weather, winds, water and whales permit.

I’m also hoping that in addition to mother/ calf pairs, we’ll see some high-action heat runs and more breaching. Swimming with mother/ calf pairs is wonderful, but there’s nothing quite like the adrenaline rush of watching a bunch of whales travel at high speed while snorting, groaning, slapping and body-slamming one another!

Sleeping Cat

It’s wet and windy today in Vava’u today, meaning it’s going to be messy out on the ocean…if everyone wants to go out.

Sleeping cat at Mounu Island Resort Tonga
This is what I’d prefer to do today.

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 1

The 2011 humpback whale season in Vava’u is off to a spectacular start!

In my first six days on the water this season, I’ve been able to ID four humpback whale calfs (Taha, Ua, Tolu, Fa). In addition, I’ve received photos of another calf I haven’t seen yet, so that’s five confirmed baby whales so far. We also saw two additional mother/ calf pairs which we were unable to ID (but I’m pretty sure were different from the ones I identified) because we weren’t able to get into the water with them. In other words, there are lots of babies swimming around.

humpback whale calf and mom
Fa (humpback whale calf #4 of the 2011 season) and mom

Besides seeing the baby humpback whales mentioned above, my first group of travellers got in the water to see and listen to a singing bull whale for several breath cycles, jumped in with several heat runs of between three and six whales, spent time watching a pair of whales resting in 15 metres of water or so, swam with a couple of single juvenile whales, and watched a number of whales breach, and breach, and breach, and breach, and breach…like cetacean versions of the Energizer Bunny.

If you read my posts from last year (see August 2010 and September 2010 post archives), you’ll know that this is marked change. Last season was a bit of a challenge, with what seemed like a lower-than-average overall whale count, mother/ calf pairs really making us work to ID them, and all whales in general seeming “standoffish” and unfriendly. The season certainly had its highlights and special moments, but overall, it was tough.

Based on my experience last week, I think it’s fair to say that if things continue in this manner, this season will be the complete opposite.

Relaxing Island Life, Hectic Days at Sea
I tried something new (for me) with my first group of fellow travellers this year. Instead of staying in town, we based ourselves at Mounu, a beautiful little island situated right in the heart of whale territory, fringed by white sand beaches and shallow coral reefs.

The island has four bungalows, so we occupied the entire resort, and basically…had an amazing time!

Our hosts, Allan, Lyn and Kirsty were fabulous, and the weather and whales couldn’t have been more cooperative.

One of the bungalows at Mounu Island Resort, under a full moon
One of the bungalows at Mounu Island Resort, under a full moon

Our terrific hosts Lyn, Kirsty and Allan
Our terrific hosts Lyn, Kirsty and Allan

Get this…the day that we showed up at the island, a mother and baby were waiting right offshore, literally a swim away. It was getting dark, so there was no way to go see them, but they put on a bit of a show with tail-slapping, breaching and such to bid us good evening. The next morning…you guessed it…they were less than 100m off the beach.

So after a quick(!) breakfast, we had all of a five-second commute before getting in with Taha and mom, a little boy whale that was reasonably playful, though mom was on the cautious side.

humpback whale mother and calf
Taha (humpack whale calf #1 of the 2011 season) and mother

From there, things just kept getting better. Here’s a quick rundown of the highlights:

Day One: ID-ed two baby whales: Taha (male) and Ua

Day Two: Pair of adults resting at 15m or so. Humongous pod of spinner dolphins, which at one point harassed a poor single whale that could only huff, puff and grunt in obvious frustration. Loads of fun for the dolphins, nice show for us…not such a happy time for the whale. But in the end, the dolphins relented and the whale dived down to get some well-deserved R&R.

Day Three: ID-ed a third baby whale, little Tolu (female). Tolu was incredibly, incredibly playful. Her mom never rested though, so we didn’t have a chance to spend extended time with the baby. But every time Tolu came up, she spun around, twirled, slapped, swished…obviously enjoying being carefree and young. Personality-wise, she reminded me of Ikumi (calf 201005 from last season). If we come across her again when mom is more settled, I have no doubt that she’ll put on quite a show.

Of note, Tolu has a long scar on her abdomen. It appears as if the scar is the result of a run-in with a line of some sort, perhaps a fishing line or longline. The cut looks like it was deep and painful, but it’s healing over, and Tolu fortunately appears none the worse for the unfortunate encounter.

humpback whale calf playing at the ocean surface in Tonga
Tolu (humpback whale calf #3 of the 2011 season) playing at the ocean surface

Incidentally, we’ve decided to name the baby whales this year according to the Tongan numbers. So Taha = 1, Ua = 2, Tolu = 3, etc. We’re doing this in part to make it easier to name the whales, but also so we can learn how to count in Tongan. So far, I’ve learned how to count up to seven. By the end of the season, perhaps I’ll be as proficient at counting as a Tongan toddler.

Day Four: Nice heat run with six whales.

Day Five: Cooperative singer in the AM, with its fluke resting at 12-15m or so, followed by a second encounter with Tolu, and then a five-whale heat run that broke up into smaller groups. Spotted another baby, but unable to lock down an ID.

One of the whales in the heat run had all-white pectoral fins (both dorsal and ventral), which is something I keep an eye out for because they are relatively easy to recognise. I didn’t get a good photo, but I did get one that’s OK to use for ID purposes. One thing I’ve been meaning to do is organise all the photos we’ve accumulated over the years of whales with all-white pecs to see if there are any repeat sightings.

Four of the humpback whales in a five-whale heat run
Four of the humpback whales in a five-whale heat run

Day Six: ID-ed Fa, the fourth calf of the season. Fa and mom were sneaky, slipping away a few times when we were close, but on one drop, when I was sure mom was going to take the baby and swim away at speed, she inexplicably turned around, brought the baby right to me, swam in front of me at slow speed, and then cruised away. The pair were so close that I couldn’t fit them in frame for all the photos!

This was invaluable for ID-ing this baby, as the visibility was low, and I wasn’t sure at the time if the other photos would be good enough to establish an ID.

The whales’ approach wasn’t threatening in any way, and they were already on a trajectory that was heading away, so the pair actually changed course to come toward me. This has happened many times over the years, so I’m wondering whether it’s a common pattern of behaviour. It sounds silly, but it’s almost like the mom “presented” the baby for perfect ID photos, and then resumed her path out to sea. Go figure.

We saw another mom and baby not 200m away from Fa, but it was clear that the pair weren’t happy having company, so we left them alone.

Later, three whales treated us to a breach-fest. Of course, for the people with cameras, the wrong whales always seemed to breach at the right time, while the right whale always did the wrong thing at the right time. It was…in short…an introduction to the frustrating (but fun and addictive) world of whale photography for everyone on the boat.

Friends Old and New
Of course, even the best weather and whales wouldn’t have meant much without the company of great friends, old and new. My first group of six travellers comprised Vania and Yvonne from Hong Kong, George and Debbie from the US (whom I met during a trip to the Eastern Fields of PNG), and Martin and Julie, who were also from the US.

Despite differing backgrounds and ages (Vania and Yvonne were the kids of the bunch; they’d probably argue that I was the child though), interpersonal dynamics clicked, so we were joking around and chatting away like old friends from the get-go.

I thoroughly enjoyed spending time with all of them, and I’m so, so happy to have been able to share a few special cetacean encounters with the group. It meant the world to me to see the looks of joy, wonder and amazement on their faces each day. It was also nice having a chance to ramble on about some of the whale-related experiences I’ve had in the past. Whether anyone actually listened or not…I’m not sure.

Vania, Yvonne, George, Debbie, Martin, Julie…Thank you so much for being perfect travel companions!

Group photo with Whale Watch Vavau
Everyone was happy at the end of the trip!

Onward and Forward
As I write this, I have another three groups who will be arriving this afternoon from Japan. Many have actually been here before, so the dynamics will be a little different in the coming days. The humpback whale veterans will be striving to get the “perfect” photo, or to see specific behaviours they haven’t encountered before. So long as the whales and weather continue to play nice though, I have no doubt everyone will have a great time.

There is one dark cloud hanging over the tourism industry here right now though…the banning of all activity on Sundays. A couple of days ago, I posted the text of the letter sent out by the police in Vava’u on this matter.

I’ve spoken with lots of people around town, and all I can say is that I’m no wiser about what’s actually happening or what the motivation behind this sudden policy announcement is.

I do know that the police enforced the policy yesterday, preventing any and all remotely fun activity from taking place. For instance, people wanting to go by boat to an island resort for lunch were told not to bother.

The letter of the law says what it says, but it’s never been enforced, and if it is actually enforced word for word, then nothing would be allowed, including operation of restaurants (which is currently being allowed), operation of any machinery, or even dancing. Makes no sense to me (or probably to any other sane person), but it is what it is for the time being.

For those of you who are joining me later this season, don’t worry too much about it. Whatever happens will happen, and we’ll figure things out. I can’t predict how this no-fun-allowed-on-Sunday policy will play out. But if the situation changes, I’ll post relevant information as soon as possible.

So for now, it’s off to the airport, and time to get ready to get back on the water.

Tonga Bans Tourism on Sundays

The text below is from a letter sent out by the police in Vava’u on 9 August 2011. I’ve re-typed it word for word, including reproducing the punctuation, spacing and typos in order to avoid the risk of misrepresenting anything.

I’ll refrain from comment on the text, as I’m sure the intent is clear. For anyone who’s already booked a trip to Tonga or planning to come here, please factor this into your planning. I have no additional information or insight besides the text below.

Re: LAW FOR THE SABBATH DAY

I respectfully would like to inform you regarding the subject mentioned above.

In the Constitution of Tonga Section 6 Chapter 2 VoL 1 it states , “ SABBATH DAY TO BE KEPT HOLY “. And in the Law of Order in Public Places section 6 (1)(e) chapter 37 1988 Vol 1 it states , “ a person who , on the Sabbath Day , either personally or through others engaged or procured by him :

(a) practices his trade or profession or conducts any undertaking of a commercial nature

© is engaged in any game , sport , dancing or fishing whether organized or not.

A person who commits such an offence is liable to a fine or imprisonment or both.

According to my duty as Police Commander to the District of Vava’u , one of my responsibilities is to observe the people who reside in this district whether they practice the Law of the Kingdom of Tonga or not.

The subject mentioned above is one of the laws that has been extremely violated a lot , especially by business such as whale watching , scuba diving , kyack ,fishing , Yacht Charters Tour Operator . Noticed that you have chosen Vava’u as the place to operate your business and collect money for you , Therefore , it is required that you respect the Law of the country. The Ministry of Police has surveillance the violation of the Law of SABBATH and has proven to be true , and this violation has been practiced for quite a long time.

It is your duty to your customers to inform them , when they make their booking , to make known to them the Law of SABBATH DAY in Tonga in which the term “ SABBATH DAY “ shall mean the period from 12 midnight on any Saturday to 12 midnight on the following Sunday.

I would like to notify you if you hold any documents which allows you to conduct these illegal practices on Sabbath Day , even if from whoever authority in the Kingdom , you are required to show me the copies of these documents.

The Police Officer shall now continue their duties to those who continue to disrespect and violate the Law of Tonga , and shall be taken to Court.

I do believe we will still continue working together with the Vava’u Ministry of Police for a better benefit for our district.

Respectfully Yours ,

Det IP T Falakiseni -
Vava’u District Commander

Cc Deputy Police Commissioner
Ministry of Labour & Commerce – Vava’u
Ministry of Tourism – Vava’u
APC U Fa’aoa

Back in Tonga

I’ve just arrived back in Tonga after a really long trip to get here. It was raining when I arrived in Vava’u, but the weather has cleared up. My head is still foggy from the journey, but fortunately, I didn’t have any issues with jet lag. I slept 12 hours last night!

Though my settling-in process has just started, it’s been great seeing friends and saying hello.

For example, the photo below is of little Moses, one of my friend’s sons. We grabbed lunch together in Nuku’alofa just before I caught the flight to Vava’u. He’s a precocious little tyke, as you can see from his exasperation with the talkative adults.

Little Moses
Little Moses telling the adults to keep it down

And of course, I went to the Chinese restaurant in Vava’u last night to check-in and say hello to my favourite dish, fried roasted eggplant:

Roasted eggplant at Golden Lily restaurant in Vava'u
Roasted eggplant at Golden Lily restaurant in Vava’u

I’m delighted to report that dinner was…delicious.

To Tonga

It’s time to head to Tonga. As always, there’s a last-minute rush to get everything done and to triple-check my bags to minimise the chances of leaving something behind.

Besides having lots of fun and seeing friends while I’m Down Under, I’ll be concentrating on my humpback whale mother/ calf pair ID effort again this year.

I received reports of baby whale sightings at the end of June, which is early viz. the “average” timing, such as it exists. I’m hoping that the early sightings auger well for this season, and that we’ll have a bumper crop of juveniles.

In the past three seasons (2008, 2009, 2010), the ID count has been 16, 31 and 24 unique mother/ calf pairs.

Humpback whale mother and calf ID project, Kingdom of Tonga
Humpback whale mother and calf ID project, Kingdom of Tonga

If you’re going to visit Tonga this year, please consider helping me out with the ID effort. As I have in previous seasons, I’ll publish all the collated information online to be freely available for anyone interested, and ascribe full credit where credit is due.

I’ve set out a brief summary of the information that I need in this file: Tonga Humpback Whale Calf ID Summary (3.1MB).

Here are links to previous summaries:
2010 Humpback Whale Calf ID Summary
2010 Humpback Whale Calf ID Google Map
2009 Humpback Whale Calf ID Summary
2009 Humpback Whale Calf ID Google Map
2008 Humpback Whale Calf ID Summary

Finally…if you’re joining me in Tonga, see you soon. Get ready to have the time of your life!