
“Welcome to 2012…”

“…see you underwater!”


Putting together Top 10 lists is a popular thing for websites to do at the end of the year.
I generally avoid trends, but I like this one, because the process of stepping back and getting perspective on what you’ve experienced and achieved over the preceding 12 months is an excellent way to set goals for the upcoming year.
It’s also a nice opportunity to recap and share some highlights of the year…to recall the good times, as well as the challenges.
I’ve just skimmed through my blog posts from 2011, and picked out ten of my favourite photos, listed in chronological order.
The first is this image of Ron Leidich and Terry Ward in the entrance of one of the hidden lakes in Palau’s Rock Islands:

I like this picture because it encapsulates everything about the unique and educational experience I had in February of exploring Palau by kayak. Getting into and out of concealed lakes was often a logistical challenge, to say nothing of the difficulty involved in documenting the experience with photos.
To capture this image, I had to swim several times between our mother boat and the island in order to haul my gear up and over sharp rocks and hydroids into the narrow opening, then get Ron and Terry into position and set up the lighting before ambient light levels fell and the incoming tide trapped us.
We were on a tight schedule and only had one try, with a window of 20, no more than 30, minutes, so I was elated (shocked almost!) when the shot actually worked.
The second photo I picked from the trip is a more traditional underwater image of a coral reef in shallow water.

It’s not technique, lighting, composition, etc. that makes this photo stand out for me. It’s the fact that this reef is living testimony to the tremendous self-healing and recovery capability of Mother Nature. It’s a symbol of hope…a reef system that defied all the doom-and-gloom, end-of-days pronouncements by experts in the wake of the massive El Niño in 1998. It’s cause for optimism.
Next up are two photos of Australian sea lions (Neophoca cinerea), the first of a friendly young sea lion coming in to give my camera a neighborly nuzzle and kiss:

…and the second of two sea lions play-fighting:

I love interacting with pinnipeds, and these two photos taken together show the extremes of their behaviour. If you’re a dog-lover like me, you’ll have no problem imagining what it’s like to swim with these precocious animals. It’s like being surrounded by hyperactive labrador retrievers…except that you’re in the water, and they can swim (a lot!) better than you.
A shadow hung over my time with the sea lions this year, as the earthquake+tsunami+nuclear reactor meltdowns in Japan took place just as I arrived in Western Australia, but the fact that I was with great friends (including three terrific kids who had an absolute blast with the sea lions) helped to balance things out.
I’m planning a return visit in March 2013, so let me know if you’re interested.
Pretty soon after playing with the sea lions, I took an exploratory trip to Sri Lanka, where I had some amazing luck. Among the highlights was an encounter with a manta ray that head-butted me twice:

I like this angle, because it’s different from most manta images. It took a lot of swimming and a number of attempts to get the manta’s tail lined up just right, when the tips of both of the animal’s wings were out of the water.
The back story of this head-butting manta is interesting, and worth a read if you like enigmas. Naturally, there was some debate about whether the manta really made a sound or not before colliding with me.
I’m 100% certain of what I heard, and there was another person in the water with me who heard/ saw the exact same things. Capt. Craig of Golden Dawn also reported a similar sound from a manta in PNG; I’ve appended a note to my original blog post with Craig’s comments. Have a read, and please let me know if you come across mantas (or other rays) making odd sounds.
Also during that trip, I managed to swim through the biggest cloud of sperm whale poo I’ve come across so far. You gotta admit, it’s impressive!

You might think it odd that I’d pick such a photo for my ten favourites of the year, but c’mon, no one can resist gawking at that enormous effluent emission.
As if batoid head-butts and odontocete defecation weren’t amazing enough, I had the mind-blowing experience of having two blue whales swim toward me, slow down to make eye contact, wish me a good day, then merrily carry on with their official whale business:

In case there was any doubt, I can confirm that blue whales are…big!
Then it was off to Papua New Guinea, where I spent a month aboard MV Golden Dawn, harassing Captain Craig and Bob Halstead.
I didn’t do much macro photography this year, but on this trip, I nailed a super-macro shot of Dinah’s goby (Lubricogobius dinah), a fish I’ve been wanting to photograph for a decade or so:

Photographing Dinah’s goby involved using a rebreather, lugging an elaborate camera set-up, and putting in some deco time, but it was worth the effort. Bob and Dinah Halstead documented this fish and had it described, so it was an honour to have Bob find the fish for me, and to be able to help Bob get a print made for Dinah!
My final two picks for the year are from Tonga. It was such an amazing season, with a record 48 humpback whale mother/ calf pair IDs, that it’s extremely difficult to select just two photos.
This picture is special because the adult female is one that I first photographed and ID-ed in 2009. I recognised her immediately on sight. She had the same even-keeled temperament that she did two seasons ago, and her calf was playful, confident and friendly, just like her calf in 2009.

And last but not least, I am quite fond of this photo of a male humpback whale singing:

I’ve spent time with and photographed a lot of singers, but this had to be the most cooperative one ever. From the moment we made eye contact, I could tell that the whale didn’t mind my presence. The white along the sides of its body, and the curly, twisty scar on the right side of its fluke really give the whale character, making for a beautiful portrait of a beautiful animal.
Well…there are certainly many more photos that I liked, but a Top 47 list doesn’t have quite the same ring to it as Top 10 does.
All of these images are more than just pictures to me. They are reminders of incredible experiences, of memories and lessons learned that no amount of money can buy, of another year well spent exploring the world, making friends, and…hopefully…becoming a better photographer and person.
Here’s another photo that I like from my recent trip to Western Australia, a picture of two Australian sea lions fighting:

Two male sea lions having a friendly discussion
The animal on the left is a juvenile, and the one on the right is a mature bull. Despite appearances, they’re not having a serious conflict. They’re play-fighting, sort of like the way dogs tussle with one another sometimes.
I’m not 100% certain, but I assume that this type of behaviour is to establish social status, as is common among many other animals.
In this case, the older individual sauntered up to the little one, greeted it, then bullied it a bit. Much to his credit, the little one stood his ground, though he did make a few strategic retreats during the encounter.
As you can see from the image, sea lions kick up a lot of sand and other stuff when they wrestle. This, plus the fact that the sea lions swim extra super-fast when they’re playing around, makes it relatively difficult to get clear photographs of such behaviour.
Sea lions are sort of awkward and ungainly on land, especially mature individuals, because they’re large, heavy and aren’t really built for taking strolls on the beach.
Underwater however, it’s an entirely different story. Even big bulky boys like the one in this silhouette shot are sleek and swift, capable of executing a pinpoint turn in the blink of an eye.
Our final day with the sea lions was less eventful than the previous few, but a lot of fun nonetheless.

Sea lion sniffing its surroundings like a puppy
It’s been a terrific trip, and I have a lot that I’d like to share, but I’m still preoccupied with what’s going on in Japan.
Even as I’m writing this, I’m watching footage on TV of a few people who were just rescued from the freezing conditions in northeast Japan, followed by a discussion of the ongoing crisis at the Fukushima nuclear plant. It’s still difficult to fathom the scale of devastation, suffering and chaos.
Given the general uncertainty in Japan and reports from friends living near me that there’s still very little food or fuel available, I won’t be heading back to Japan until it makes sense to do so. For the time being, I’ll be even more homeless and disoriented than usual.
Today was another action-packed day, with about four hours of fun in the water with our sea lion friends. Among the day’s highlights, there was one particular pinniped with a penchant for kissing everyone:

Young sea lion coming in for a kiss
We also had a nice swim with a New Zealand fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri), which was unusual. There aren’t too many of them in the area, and they tend to be shy. But the one we swam with wasn’t terribly standoff-ish. With a little patience, we were able to get close enough to get a good look.

The fur seal seemed to enjoy floating at the water’s surface with its flippers sticking out in the air. Perhaps this cute position is for thermal regulation, or maybe it’s just for fun. In any event, the encounter was a terrific bonus.
I’m keeping my fingers crossed and hoping that our good luck with weather, water and animals so far will hold through tomorrow, which is our final day on the water.
Here’s a photo from today, a pair of sea lions (Neophoca cinerea) taking a break, no doubt exhausted from the effort of keeping us entertained:

A pair of sea lions crashed out on a bed of seagrass
The one on top is a juvenile we’ve seen every day this week. It’s easily recognisable by the scars on its head. The bigger one plunked down on the bottom is an older male.
After a bit of a slow start in the early morning, we had another great day with our pinniped friends today. This is one of the juveniles we played with, showing off his whiskers, just like in the photo I posted yesterday.

Chilling out in the surf with a juvenile sea lion
I want to write more about the fun we had, but I’m totally preoccupied by the devolving disaster in Japan. Radiation levels throughout northeast Japan and the Tokyo area have risen dramatically in recent hours, and there’s the potential for the situation to get much worse.
People who want to flee northeast Japan can’t, because there’s not enough fuel for everyone’s cars, so many people are stuck.
And with reports of radiation levels already at 10-40x normal right now in Tokyo and surrounding suburbs…Japan’s largest population center is at risk.
I don’t even know if it’s safe to go back after wrapping up here.
Today was my first day in the water with Australian sea lions (Neophoca cinerea). Given what’s going on in Japan right now, I’ve been struggling with whether to post photos or not.
On the one hand, it’s difficult not to be preoccupied and worried about the chaos and confusion back at home.
On the other hand, no matter how bad things get, life has to go on, and there’s nothing to be gained by being depressed.
I’m still not quite sure what the right thing to do is, but my gut instinct is to focus on the task at hand. When I get back to Japan, I’m sure there will be a lot to deal with, but for the time being, here is a picture I took today, highlighting one of the things that makes these sea lions so cute…whiskers:

Australian sea lions have lots of whiskers
It was a great first day. Somewhat windy and choppy in the morning, which resulted in less-than-ideal visibility, but the sea lions were cooperative, and we all had many opportunities to interact with the playful pinnipeds.
After rushing a dozen or more things out the door, pulling an all-nighter in the process, I’m finally on my way to visit Australian sea lions (Neophoca cinerea) again.
It’s been three years since I last had a chance to frolic with my frisky friends in Western Australia, so I’m looking forward to seeing how they’re doing and what’s been happening with their home on Carnac Island.

They are absolutely adorable animals (imagine aquatic labrador retrievers on speed), but they also face a lot of challenges…many of which, not surprisingly, are due to people.
The sea lion colony I’m visiting comprises wild animals, so there’s no guarantee that they’ll be there. Even if they are, there’s no way to be certain whether they’ll deign to spend time with uncoordinated goofs like me trying to keep up with their underwater antics. But they’re generally good natured and playful, so I’ll hopefully have nice pictures to post soon.
Several friends(?) from Singapore and Thailand will be joining the fun, and I’ll also have a chance to hook up with a few people that I’ve only communicated with online so far.
Oh, almost forgot. I need to pack.
Related posts:
Socialising with Sea Lions
Sea Lion Sequel
How I Tricked A Sea Lion
