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The Last Supper

A few weeks ago, I welcomed Eric, Julia, Douglas and Emily to Japan for the start of our quest to photograph and video sperm whales by taking them to dinner at a small sushi restaurant outside Tokyo.

Our trip was a wild success, and Eric and Julia have already gone back. Tonight, we had dinner with Douglas and Emily to say goodbye, as they’ll be boarding a plane for the long trip home tomorrow. Tom, one of Douglas’s friends from high school, joined us too.

kushiyaki

I took them to a small kushiyaki restaurant called Kushihana (串花) in Nishi-azabu. In case you’re not familiar with kushiyaki cuisine, it’s basically delicious bite-sized morsels of stuff skewered and deep-fried on little sticks, generally washed down with copious quantities of beer, shochu, or whatever other form of alcohol is on hand.

Nishi-azabu a swank neighborhood in Tokyo with lots of fancy shops, restaurants and clubs, but this place is quaint and cozy, and just about everyone who goes there is a diver. The owner is a diver and a big fan of underwater photography, so it seemed like an appropriate place for our last dinner together.

Of course, we couldn’t let the evening go by without a bit of fun…at Douglas’s expense:

I’m sure Douglas had a nagging feeling that he was being set up, but he was a good sport and played along, much to the amusement of all the other people in the restaurant (who were all in on the gag).

If you’re ever in Tokyo and feel like going to a small place that’s not packed with tourists and socialites, this is a map to Kushihana, and the address is Minato-ku, Nishiazabu 4-2-15, 106-0031 (港区西麻布4-2-15, 106-0031). You have to speak Japanese though.

And make sure you visit the bathroom, where one of my sperm whale photos is on display.

The First Supper

My first dinner together with the small group of brave adventurers about to set off in search of sperm whales. Location…my favourite hidden-away sushi place just outside Tokyo, where the food is always fresh and there are never any tourists:

dinner

On Golden Dawn

For those of you who are joining Eric Cheng and me on our upcoming adventure in the Eastern Fields of Papua New Guinea aboard the MV Golden Dawn with Capt Craig Dewit, here’s a brief preview of what’s in store.

If you’ve never been aboard the Golden Dawn, Craig generally works hard, though it may not always appear like he’s doing much:

Craig

He generally knows where he’s going, though sometimes, you find yourself deposited in places where it doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of good diving to be had:

johan

Also, you should know that Craig has a little camera and fancies himself a good photographer. So it’s best to humour him, or better yet, recruit other people to listen to him and marvel at his photographic finesse, as I did here:

camera

Because on occasion, he manages to drop you into really interesting situations for face-to-face personal encounters:

shark

Or group discussions:

humpheads

Or just to appreciate pristine, unspoiled scenery:

reef

The upcoming expeditions in November and December are fully booked, but Craig and I are plotting another trip to visit reefs he’s just discovered (i.e., no one has ever dived before).

If you’re a glutton for punishment adventurous and think you’d enjoy picking on Craig sharing a trip with Craig, I’ll post more information when we’ve figured out the details.

Tribute

A close friend passed away recently.

I suppose such news always comes as a shock, but it was all the more so in this instance, as I received the news while checking email in the airport, just a few days after we’d parted ways…standing together outside a restaurant in Tonga, where we’d just shared a meal, along with a lot of smiles, laughs, hearty pats on the back, and promises to see each other again next year.

The rest of the long trip home was a bit of a blur, as I struggled to accept the reality that I’d never see my friend Ongo again.

ongo

There is so much I’d like to write about Ongo, but I’ve been staring at the screen for a while now, and nothing terribly coherent seems to be coming out. Writing is the act of transcribing what’s on your mind, so perhaps my thoughts are still too jumbled to convey in a meaningful manner.

Even so, I want…perhaps need…to write what I can, in order to pay my last respects to a dear friend who played a big role in my life.

Ongo was a school teacher before he became a boat captain and business owner. In fact, his love of teaching was a big part, if not the over-riding theme, of our relationship.

whaleFor starters, he taught me most of what I know about the humpback whales that visit Tonga. He didn’t hold a PhD; he wasn’t a recognised “expert”; he wasn’t affiliated with any big organisation known by a clever acronym…but he sure as heck knew more about whales than any of those people.

(Photo to the right…that’s Ongo in the boat raising “banzai!” arms)

His sixth sense for what the whales would do was accurate to the point of being spooky. The number of times the whales breached when he said: “They’ll breach soon.” is uncanny. The number of times the whales went exactly where he said they would go defies comprehension. The number of times he put me in exactly the right place at precisely the right time…is a big part of how I learned about how humpbacks think.

The joy he derived from sharing his knowledge and experience was infectious. It was one of the main reasons that my friend Takaji and I started taking people to Tonga from Japan.

Over the past five years, we’ve brought hundreds of Japanese visitors to Tonga, and with Ongo’s help, we’ve established a bond between the two cultures that I hope will continue as part of Ongo’s legacy.

More recently, we worked with Ongo to share the knowledge we’ve gained from him with the children of Vava’u. We’ve held talks and presented slideshows about humpback whales for kids from the local community, and this year, I was able to take some of them into the water to see whales up close.

The look of surprise, delight and wonder in the kids’ eyes was matched only by the look of happiness and sparkle of satisfaction in Ongo’s eyes as he observed the activities.

ongo

I like to think he was proud of me and of the kids. Me, for having paid attention and learned over the years. The kids, for trusting me enough to get into the water, even though many of them were scared.

Ongo is gone now. There is no getting around it. But the things he taught my friends and me are alive and well.

We will go back to Tonga again next year. We won’t be going back just to see the whales. We will be visiting to continue the projects that we started with Ongo…and to honour the memory of a good friend, and a great teacher.

group photo

Young Friends

Two of my youngest friends in Vava’u, Crystal and Hollie:

crystal and hollie

They’re a laugh a minute and always full of energy.

Kids

I spent the day in town yesterday, getting ready for the arrival of my first group from Japan. It drizzled intermittently for most of the day, so it was a good day to be land-bound.

Came across a group of school kids taking a break, munching on snacks in the early afternoon. They were a bit shy at first, but it didn’t take too much effort to get them to ham it up for the camera.

kids

Incidentally, I’m loving the Canon 50mm 1.4 lens I picked up just before coming to Tonga. I’ve never really shot with a 50mm lens, so it’s forcing me to look at familiar scenes in new ways.

If you’re stuck in a rut or you’re looking for a way to augment your portfolio, trying new lens perspectives from time-to-time is a great way to kick-start creative energy.

For Canon shooters, the 50mm 1.4 lens is inexpensive and performs beautifully. I particularly like the bokeh, which is as smooth as buttermilk.

…still drizzly this morning, but I’m off to look for friendly whales.

Facts, Figures, Families, Friends

candleA ferry sank in Tonga a couple of nights ago…the night I arrived in Vava’u…claiming around 26 lives, mostly women and children.

I know the story has been in the news. Many people have sent me messages of concern (thank you) and news clippings. By now, most of the available information has gone out, so there’s not much more to say about this tragedy, except perhaps to note that it could have been prevented, and never should have happened.

What the press releases and words on the news wires can’t convey, however, is the degree to which Tonga as a whole, and especially Vava’u, has been affected.

Tonga is a small nation, with a population of 110,000 people or so. Everyone seems to know one another, or at least know someone else who knows someone you’re talking about. There are perhaps only three or four degrees of separation among people here, rather than the more standard six.

As such, just about everyone here, me included, knows someone who’s been affected by this misfortune.

Despite prevailing sunshine and clear skies for the past couple of days, there’s been a dark cloud hanging over Vava’u. Many of the survivors, and most of the victims it seems, were from Vava’u.

Yesterday evening, my friends arranged for a minister to conduct a small memorial service at the Vava’u Yacht Club. The service was broadcast live via radio to all of Vava’u. Of the 100+ people gathered, most were non-Tongans. Some were visitors like me, others more permanent residents of Vava’u.

minister

The weekly Friday-evening yacht races in the harbour were cancelled, and most everyone who would have participated ended up at the service.

As the minister spoke, the usual chaos of the venue settled into a respectful silence, some people listening to the minister’s words, others seeking solace in their personal thoughts…perhaps contemplating their own close calls at sea.

I tried to imagine how it must have felt for the unfortunate women and children trapped in the hull of the ship as it went down, then stopped myself as I felt a surge of nausea. Some thoughts are better left un-thought.

The service wasn’t long, concluding with two minutes of silence and a rendition of Amazing Grace, but the important thing is that it brought together a diverse group of people from all around the world, if but for a few minutes, to share a moment of silence, respect and support.

Some of the long-term residents and frequent visitors here have set up a fund to help the victims’ families pay for funeral expenses, and many of the foreign-owned businesses are contributing their own funds as well as collecting donations for the cause.

Tonga is a deeply religious nation. I’m certain that churches will be filled to capacity this weekend, as communities gather for collective emotional release.

The one thing I see most clearly by being here, is that the facts and figures of this tragedy aren’t what’s important. It’s the families and friends…those lost at sea, and those remaining to mourn them…who are the real story.

sad girl

Welcome Home

In keeping with custom, I spent my first full day in Vava’u greeting friends, renewing acquaintances, catching up on current events, checking out new restaurants…generally re-acclimating myself to the pace and rhythm of local life.

One of the most enjoyable aspects of this annual ritual is seeing how much my friends’ children have grown, like this beautiful little girl, who’s the youngest daughter of one of my best friends.

She was ill quite often as an infant, so I was always concerned for her. But as you can see from this photo, she’s healthy and strong now…enough to run around, giggle and make funny faces at me.

It’s good to be home.

little girl

Rest and Recovery

TDEX was really(!) hectic.

First, I didn’t arrive at the show until the second day due to a scheduling conflict, so I didn’t have much time to adjust. Second, I had to say hi to lots of friends, which is the best part of the event, but it was difficult to catch everyone after things started to get busy.

Third, I had talks to give, which required preparation (yes…of course I wasn’t prepared in advance). And finally, I was running around shooting video interviews with some of the exhibitors.

video

By the end of each day, all I wanted to do was crash. Had I been alone, that’s exactly what I would have done, but with Gunther Deichmann in town, I spent as much time as I could plugging him with questions about Aperture since he’s a certified instructor…which meant staying up to about 2:00 every night. Of course, having the opportunity to get personalised instruction was worth sacrificing some sleep.

Incidentally…during one of our talks, we had one of those “the-world-is-such-a-small-place” moments.

We were chatting about memorable images, and I described a stunning black-and-white portrait of a girl that I saw while I was working in the Philippines in the early 90s. It was such a striking image that I called the photographer, introduced myself, and went over to his studio to meet him. He and his wife were incredibly nice, and he gave me a signed print of the photo I liked so much.

After all these years, I couldn’t immediately recall his name, but when Gunther heard me describe the photographer in question, he immediately ID-ed him…Bien Bautista.

Bien is well-known, particularly for his black-and-white images, and by coincidence, Gunther has been friends with him for a long time!

In case you’re interested, the image that captured my attention is posted on Bien’s website. Stunning images like this stay in my head forever.

Anyway, the upshot of all this rambling is that it’s still going to take a few days of R&R to return to some semblance of normality.

More Cuteness

Though I didn’t spend as much time exploring above-water this time as I did on my first visit to Ambon in October last year, I did have a few opportunities to look around and make a few friends.

This little girl was really shy at first. Her father is in the far background, working with another guy to repair fishing nets. Her mother was off to one side saying something along the lines of “It’s ok, he’s human.”, though the little girl wisely maintained a healthy dose of scepticism.

shy girl

One of the things I’ve noticed in my travels is that kids and parents in supposedly less-developed territories are generally friendlier and more open that their counterparts in modern urban environments.

Seriously, if I walked up to a random kid in most cities with a big camera in hand, I’d risk being arrested, beaten up, or both.

In the remote areas I travel to, taking photographs of people is usually an instant way to make friends…transcending cultural barriers and the impediments of language.

After showing the little girl’s parents the first few shots I took, they told her something like: “Smile, smile, pose, pose!” while laughing profusely…to say nothing of the delighted reaction I got when the girl saw her own image on my LCD. Within short order, there was a gaggle of other giggling girls and boys waiting to have their photos taken.

All I ever wanted when I was growing up was to live in the big city. Now I can’t wait to escape the urban jungle to head out to places most people have never heard of. Funny how priorities change in life.

smile

Woman of the Sea

Traditions in Japan are dying. Not all of them of course, but enough that much of what I’ve come to know as Japan, and much of what I’ve learned about the country…will be gone before too long.

There aren’t, for instance, many Ama divers left.

Translated literally, Ama (海女) means Women of the Sea. In Japanese tradition, women who worked as Ama free dived for pearls, shellfish, seaweed, octopuses…products of the sea. In some areas, men also did this, but it’s generally been an occupation dominated by women.

Way back when, the Ama dived with minimal gear, but over time, they’ve adopted wetsuits, hookah compressors, scuba tanks and even uniforms in some instances (usually at tourist attractions)…to keep up with the times and maximise productivity.

atsumaru-san

While I was in Izu recently, I met the last Ama in Futo harbour (there are other Ama divers in other areas). The name she goes by is Atsumaru. This is an adaption of her husband’s given name Atsuo. In fact, everyone refers to both of them as Atsumaru-san, even thought their actual family name is Inaba.

To cut a long story short, I was going to accompany Atsumaru-san out for a day of diving…to watch her work, ask questions, learn about the Ama tradition…and to document what I could of this vestige of Japanese culture.

As it turned out, the weather wasn’t cooperative, so we weren’t able to go out on the water, but I did spend an entire morning talking with Atsumaru-san and her husband. Here are some of the things I learned:

  • Atsumaru-san is originally from Mie prefecture. She moved to Izu somewhat over 37 years ago, because the water is deep in Izu. Back home, the water is shallow. In Ama circles, divers who work in deep water get more respect…so she moved to Izu, met her husband, and settled into the life she wanted…that of an Ama.
  • At around 07:00 every morning from the first of April through the end of November, she lights a fire inside a shed on the edge of the harbour. The fire is to warm herself before heading out on the water. She draws hot water from a volcanic spring into a tub too, but as she explained to me: “Fire is the only way to get warm all the way down to your bones.”
  • Her husband drives the boat, and she dives…but only when the weather and water conditions are right. Her husband decides when it’s good to go out. She trusts him completely.
  • atsumaru-san

  • When conditions are right, they head out once in the early morning (after she’s warmed up by the fire), and she dives for around two hours. She wears a wetsuit, gets her air from a hose connected to a compressor on the boat, and uses red cotton gloves on her hands. Cotton makes it easier for her to feel around. Neoprene gloves might be safer and warmer, but it’s difficult to navigate by feel. Following a brief rest (and warming up again) after the first dive, they head out a second time in the late morning for another dive.
  • Lately, she’s been diving only around 1.5 hours instead of two. The water has been unusually cold.
  • The water was unusually warm over the past two years though. Perhaps that’s why there’s so little seaweed around. She’s never seen so little seaweed in her entire diving career here. “It’s troubling. Maybe it’s global warming. Maybe it’s bad for the harvest.”, she observed.
  • She mainly gathers four types of shellfish: sazae (Turbo (Batillus) cornatus), kuro awabi (Nordotis discus, a type of abalone), tokubushi (Suculus diversicolor aquatilis), and shittaka (Don’t know). Atsumaru-san says that there have been fewer and fewer tokubushi and shittaka recently, though she’s not sure why.
  • When she started in Futo harbour, there were 13 people (including herself and her husband) in five groups doing what she’s doing now. Gradually, everyone else has stopped. Now, only the two of them are left.
  • She’s been fortunate. She’s only had one instance when her air supply was cut off. She was close enough to the surface that she just popped up. Other people she knew suffered injuries though. Some died…accidentally struck by the props of the boats they were working on. “I’ve been fortunate.”, she repeated as she looked toward her husband.
  • I never asked Atsumaru-san her age, but I place her at around 60. She’s healthy in every respect and has a wonderful sense of humour, but she’s the first one to admit that her time remaining as an Ama diver is limited.

    atsumaru-san

    As I listened to her stories and asked her questions, I felt an undercurrent of melancholy, particularly as she described the glory days of when all 13 of the local Ama crew got together to talk, rest and relish the fruits of a day’s labour.

    By the time her husband made the call not to risk a day at sea, I had already decided that I need to come back, to spend more time with Atsumaru-san…to dive as deep into the details of her life as she’ll allow, so the stories, adventures and achievements of her life won’t go unrecognised.

    My Dive Guides in Izu

    Hard-working, keen-eyed dive guides are a big part of having a successful trip…anywhere you visit.

    In Izu for the past week, I’ve had the good fortune of working with two excellent guides…Satoshi Shinohara and Issei Takeda…from Sea Front dive shop. Here’s Satoshi with a big grin on his face:

    satoshi

    They’ve been helping me find things, lug things around, clean things off, and also just shuttling me around from site to site.

    All of our dives have been shore dives, so there’s quite a bit of preparation time involved, and there’s plenty of work to do after we get back to the dive shop too.

    So as my way of saying thanks…I forced them to pose for photos. The shop is located on the way to one of the primary dive sites, so many of their friends from other dive shops slowed down to watch me taking photos of my extremely self-conscious models. Embarrassing Satoshi and Issei in front of their friends was almost as much fun as finding a lumpsucker for the first time!

    Here’s a photo of both of the strapping young lads together. It took me a while to convince them to stand close enough to one another to fit them both in the frame…

    dive guides