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Serious Research Stuff

There were two people from China who joined me for my recent humpback whale acoustics research trip in Tonga.

One of the two, Song Ye, is a former member of the Chinese national swim team, and goes by the nickname Mermaid.

In addition to being a talented swimmer, she is also a natural when it comes to cetacean acoustics research, as is clear in this video:

I was tempted to tell her that the hydrophone wasn’t effective for two-way communication, but in the end, I didn’t have the heart to spoil her fun.

Humpback Whales 2010: Part 2

Singing whales weren’t the only ones we encountered during the Jocara trip.

To be upfront, it’s been a relatively slow start to the season. There are certainly whales here. I’ve seen them every day I’ve been out on the water. But qualitatively, there don’t seem to be as many interactive whales (i.e., ones you can spend quality time with) as normal for this time of year.

Over the past week and a half, I know there were two mother and calf pairs in the area. We saw one in the water, but were unable to get in with the other. There certainly might be more, but I haven’t heard any credible reports.

Usually by now, there should be more, though there have been other years with relatively few babies early on, such as in 2007, but quite a few later in the season.

When you get right down to it, there’s really no way of knowing how things will play out until the end of the season.


Working the ropes on Jocara

Besides the mothers and babies, there seem to be a lot of young whales here, say between one to five years of age or so, i.e., sexually immature whales. The first two singers we recorded are good examples, and we’ve sighted many others either playing alone, or travelling in pairs.

Other boats have reported large heat runs, and I know of encounters with at least three separate mating pairs of whales.

As I alluded to above, it’s far too early in the season to generalise about how things are going, but if I can indulge in a bit of speculation…

Over the past three years, I’ve ID-ed over 60 calfs. Since there’s no way I saw all the babies, I think it’s reasonable to assume there were well over 100 calfs in this group of whales over the past three years.

This number would suggest that a significant proportion of the breeding females in this humpback whale group have had babies in the recent past. Females that have just had babies are relatively less likely to have them again right away (though I’ve ID-ed two moms here that had babies two years in a row in 2008 and 2009).

Not all the young would have survived, but the number of babies could help explain the seemingly high number of young whales we’ve seen so far. Other explanations, of course, could be that the young whales arrived earlier than the others, the older ones are busy elsewhere, or I’m just imagining things.

I’ve also sensed in the past that high-baby years seem to run somewhat countercyclical with seasons with a relatively high number of heat runs and mating pairs. This seems to makes sense, since females with babies are relativley less likely to be engaging in courtship/ mating (though it does happen), while females without babies are relatively more likely to do so.

So…one of the things that will be of interest to me as the season progresses is to see how the baby count goes versus the relative frequency of heat runs and mating pair encounters.

Ongo
On 6 August, the last day that we were out on the water, I made my first calf ID for the season. It was a relatively new calf, perhaps in the two- to three-week old range, and absolutely adorable.

The visibility was poor, and the mother was skittish, so I wasn’t able to take any prize-winning photos, but I was able to get a good enough look to ID the baby.

Both mommy and baby are nearly all black, with the baby having small white patches just behind both eyes. The mother has an easily recognisable pattern on the ventral surface of her fluke…mostly black, with white areas toward the the upper corners on both sides. In short…it’s easy to ID this pair again.

I decided to name the baby Ongo, in honour of my close friend and mentor here who passed away just days after I left Tonga last year. For the community as a whole…it’s difficult to overestimate the importance Ongo had on establishing the whale watch industry here. For me personally…Ongo taught me just about everything I know about humpback whale behaviour. To top it off, he was a terrific person.


Ongo. 1st ID-ed calf of 2010 season.

Mating Pairs
On 4 August, we came across three whales travelling together. After watching a while, I guessed that they were a mating pair with a third wheel who couldn’t or wouldn’t take the hint to get lost.

Perhaps it was the tail end of a heat run, or a lone male interloper that hoped to interrupt a lovey-dovey pair that had already decided on one another.

Over the course of an hour or two, we watched the whales’ ups and downs until the third was finally chased away, doing a big, violent tail splash as it left, an obvious sign of frustration.

The pair then settled down to spend quality time with one another. It was late in the day by then, so we left them to get down to business.

The next day, we swam with another mating pair in roughly the same area as we had left the first pair the previous day. Based on the whales’ behaviour and my memory of the fluke patterns, I initially thought it might be the same pair. I didn’t have in-water photos from the previous day for comparison, but Gina and Frederick had video, so they were able to compare the whales later in the evening.

As it turned out, they were not the same whales. In a way, it was a letdown, as it would’ve been nice to have seen the same whales again (it’s happened to me before), but in another way, it’s better, because that means more mating pairs, which is good for the humpback population!

One of the most intriguing aspects of this second pair was the behaviour of the female. The two whales were clearly in resting mode. The female’s preferred resting position was to float with her fluke at the surface, flopped over so the ventral surface was flat (or nearly flat) on the water.


Female humpback whale hanging in the water with fluke flopped over at the surface

I’ve seen other humpbacks stick their flukes/ caudal regions out of the water for a while, but this female was single-minded. After every dive, the pair would surface and the female would take up the exact same position…just hanging out with her tail in the air. The male rested just below her.

Difficult to know why she kept doing this, but I can only speculate that it must have felt good.


Surface view of the female humpback whale’s fluke

At the end of our encounter, the male swam up and allowed several of us to swim alongside for quite some distance as the pair cruised at the surface.

When the whales finally dived, I took a few photos, only noticing what should have been obvious after I reviewed the images:


No doubt about what’s on his mind

People
It was an unusual week for me. After so many seasons here, I have somewhat of a fixed pattern of doing things. This past week+ broke the pattern (different boat, different procedures, different focus out on the water, new gadgets, new software to wrangle), which made things difficult in a way, but also highly rewarding.

Besides the whale-related stuff I described above, I spent time with terrific people, who may not have participated in my usual gung-ho whale photography trips.

Without exception, they were terrific(!), and I am delighted to be able to call them friends (not sure if the feeling is mutual of course).

One of the best discoveries from my first few days in Vava’u was the new Chinese restaurant, Golden Lily. One of the most difficult things for me about extended travel is being away from Asian food. I’m perfectly adaptable and can get along just about anywhere, but I can’t help but crave for Asian food every once in a while. This place solves the problem!

The food is…let’s just say awesome. Richard and Song Ye, my two guests from China, and two of their friends who were also in Vava’u, approved of the food, so I suspect I’ll find myself here a lot:


Final feast for the inaugural acoustics research trip

More people start arriving today, and we hit the water again tomorrow. Can’t wait to see what the whales choose to share next!

Cast of characters for my inaugural Humpback Acoustics Adventure:


John fiddling with gadgets


Casper giving me a ride to the dock


Christy surveying the seas ahead


Ali looking cool on the aft deck of Jocara


Frederick imitating The Thinker


Gina, not posing at all. Nope. Not posing.


Richard, Song Ye (aka Mermaid) and their two friends from Beijing

Related Posts
Humpback Whales in Tonga 2010 | Part 1
Humpback Whales in Tonga 2010 | Part 3
Humpback Whales in Tonga 2010 | Part 4
Humpback Whales in Tonga 2010 | Part 5
Humpback Whales in Tonga 2010 | Part 6

Dances With Seahorses

Richard Smith is an eager young marine biologist and underwater photographer who lives in Brisbane, Down Under. He is writing his PhD thesis about pygmy seahorses, and from what I gather, he may actually even finish it.

I’ve only met him once, by chance in the Lembeh Strait last year, and I only had the opportunity to speak with him for half an hour or so.

He seemed pleasant enough, and he’s even planning a trip to dive in Japan with my friends in Izu.

It struck me as somewhat odd, however, that the dates he picked for his visit to Japan coincide with dates that I specifically told him I can’t possibly join him.

I mean…we share common interests, and we had a terrific talk in Lembeh, so why…I wondered…could he possibly be avoiding me?

After thinking long and hard about this conundrum, the proverbial light bulb went off in my head.

This short video clip of Richard explaining the mating rituals of pygmy seahorses to me when we met in Lembeh probably has something to do with it:

(In case it’s not obvious, the point of this post is that if you meet (or already know) Richard, you absolutely must ask him to do the pygmy seahorse mating dance. Even better if you video it and post to the www.)

C.N’a

The countdown to Tonga has begun, and I’m scrambling around with more than the usual level of chaos, since I just got back from Bangkok and have had less time than normal to sort through my piles of stuff to get (somewhat) organised.

Vava’u has become like a second home to me over the years, and I particularly look forward to seeing friends and their families…including pets.

This is C.N’a:


Ever-curious, but camera-shy C.N’a

C.N’a stands for “Crow’s Nest”. Many words in Tongan have the ‘a syllable appended to the end. I don’t understand enough Tongan to know if there’s a meaning to the ‘a or if it’s for emphasis, but in any case, it’s pronounced “Sienna”.

There’s a touching story behind C.N’a. The short version is that she was one of the many stray dogs in the area, but different enough from the other dogs that it’s possible she was left behind by one of the boats.

In fact, she apparently visited the area in front of the Crow’s Nest, which is a bakery/ restaurant adjacent to the main harbour, each morning. The owners of the Crow’s Nest, Stephen and Tess, gradually befriended her, and at this point, she’s a permanent fixture, arguably the boss.

She apparently still hates being left behind though, and has been spotted chasing Stephen and Tess’s car down the main road when they inadvertently forgot her. That must be quite a sight!

C.N’a is very friendly, especially if you happen to have one of Stephen’s fresh-baked banana muffins with you. Stephen makes fresh bread and pastries every day, no doubt to keep C.N’a happy:


C.N’a’s caretaker and sometimes chef, Stephen

C.N’a is camera-shy, so it took quite a bit of coaxing to get her to pose. I suspect she can hear the high-pitch tone of the autofocus mechanism. I had to switch to manual focus to keep her from wandering away.

If you’re ever in Vava’u, stop by the Crow’s Nest to say hello to C.N’a and Tess (and yes…I guess Stephen too).

…back to packing

Ayutthaya

A couple of days after TDEX wrapped up, a few of us drove up to Ayutthaya. Actually, a couple of us drove. The rest of us sat in the back asking: “Are we there yet?” at 30-second intervals.

The primary goal was to have lunch at a restaurant called Ton Nam that’s famous for serving river prawns.


River prawns at Ton Nam restaurant, Ayutthaya

We also tried a thai dessert/ snack called roti sai mai, which is sort of like stringy cotton candy that you wrap in a thin roti. I’m not really a dessert person, but it was good, as you can see from the expression on Mean’s face:


Mean enjoying roti sai mai

To work off some of the calories ingested, we spent a bit of time walking around a couple of the temples, mostly Wat Mahathat and the reclining Buddha. If you live in Bangkok or have occasion to visit Thailand, it’s worth travelling to Ayutthaya to learn a little about Thai history. The first time I visited the old part of the city was over 20 years ago.


Aey and Mean at the reclining Buddha in Ayutthaya

It was a weekday during rainy season, so there weren’t many other people around. This gave us the perfect opportunity to conduct extensive tests of our photo and video gear…as you can see in the two series of gif files below.

Among us, we had a Canon IXY220IS compact camera, an Olympus Pen camera, a Panasonic GF-1, a Canon 5D Mark II and a Sony CX550V handycam…so we had to put all the hi-tech hardware to good use.

It probably says a lot about us that this was what we decided to do:



Despite appearances (particularly Eric’s Calvin-like grin), this was a serious camera test. Eric was running through us with the video camera set to capture slow-motion footage.

One of the clips actually turned out quite nicely. I’m sure Eric will post it once he’s back home…if for nothing more than to demonstrate that there really was a (somewhat) constructive purpose to his running a slalom course in the middle of the old city of Ayutthaya.

And of course, after getting back to Bangkok, we went for more food, starting with incredibly good Som Tam Gai Yang (green papaya salad, grilled chicken, plus other stuff) and sticky rice:


Eric Cheng with sticky rice

…followed by my all-time favourite dessert, mango with sticky rice, from the vendor on the corner of Thonglor and Sukhumvit:


Fresh mangos…for mango with sticky rice!

Eating so much in one day was certainly hard work, but someone had to do it.

Eric’s Adoring Fan Club

Eric and I gave two talks each at the Thai Travel and Dive Expo in Bangkok this weekend.

Here’s a snapshot of Eric showing a photo he took of flamboyant cuttlefish while we were in Lembeh back in March, using the Inon wide-angle macro lens:


Eric Cheng speaking at TDEX 2010

Both of us are accustomed to public speaking, so for the most part, things went smoothly…nothing unexpected or out of the ordinary…except, of course, for a spontaneous gathering of a gaggle of giggling girls expressing undying adoration for young Mr. Cheng (no doubt related to his adroit handling of the aforementioned phallic lens):


Eric enthusiastically explaining his mastery of all things long

Being the consummate professional that he is, Eric took things in stride (note the dopey expression on his face, visible even from behind), even deigning to pose for a group photo with his doey-eyed fan club after he had finished expounding on f-stops and lens angles:


Eric trying not to show how pleased he was with the situation

Despite relishing the attention lavished upon him, young Eric did appear somewhat uncomfortable at times, particularly during the photo session…when he was careful to keep his hands in his lap, lest he inadvertently infringe upon the modesty of one of the innocent young lasses around him:

It is, however, a sad fact of life that all good things must come to an end. The captivated co-eds soon lost interest in my friend, leaving him alone, staring into the distance with a forlorn, pensive expression:


Eric, after being abandoned by his harem

Actually, I was with Eric for the rest of the afternoon, but he seemed rudely disinterested in any attention I attempted to lavish upon him.

Go figure.

Khun Nat

I’m in Bangkok now, for the Thailand Travel and Dive Expo, which was postponed from the originally planned dates in May this year.

Visiting Thailand is always lots of fun.

Today…while not preoccupied eating/ digesting far too much food…I walked around saying hello to friends, including my fellow photographer Nat Sumanatemeya.

Nat Sumanatemeya

Khun Nat is well-known in Thailand, and he’s a terrific guy to boot. If you visit TDEX this weekend, be sure to check out the gallery of his images and DSLR video footage on display just before you enter the exhibition hall!

Behind The Scenes

In the process of cleaning up my folders, files and such after wrapping up the editing for my Eastern Fields video, I came across this snapshot I took of Craig right after I finished interviewing him:

craig dewit

What you see in the foreground is a Canon 5D Mark II with a 17-40mm zoom lens, which I used to record the interview.

The furry thing on top is a Sennheiser MKE-400 shotgun microphone, which helped to reduce distraction from ambient noise (engine, aircon, people yelling, boat horns, etc.).

I mounted the camera on Golden Dawn’s steering wheel using a Gorillapod…certainly not the ideal configuration for the purpose!

But I didn’t have a proper tripod, so I had to make do with what was available, and the steering wheel was the only platform with sufficient height to get the angle of view I wanted. Balancing the camera and keeping it from flopping left and right was a bit of a challenge.

Doing the interview was probably the most difficult part of gathering material for the video. I knew that I wanted to get footage of Craig describing his personal experiences and feelings about the Eastern Fields to use as the backbone of the storyline.

But Craig is incredibly camera-shy, and kept coming up with excuses to avoid being interviewed. Finally, when he ran out of excuses, I had to wait a good 30 minutes while he showered, shaved, powdered his nose, and otherwise tried (in vain) to pretty himself up.

In case you’re interested, I set exposure and focus manually, striving for low depth of field. I think the aperture was something like f5.0, or thereabouts. Shutter would have been around 1/60 to 1/100. The frame rate was 30fps by default. I think ISO was 400, and the biggest technical challenge I had was controlling the overblown areas behind Craig.

I recorded the interview prior to having manual control of audio gain (a function which came with a later firmware upgrade), so it was paramount to keep ambient sound levels constant. Fortunately, no one else was around, and it was a quiet day in port, so we did everything in a single take per question, over a period of about 20 minutes.

Now…lest you get the (mis)impression that Craig always appears as Captain-like as I so deftly portrayed him, allow me to point out that you’re more likely to spot Craig in situations like this:

craig dewit
(Note: I didn’t take this picture. I don’t know who did. The file came from Craig. I bet he’ll regret giving me a copy after he sees this.)

Lost in Translation

I just received the following photo from my friend Dr John Potter:

hydrophone

More interesting than the photo is John’s “explanation” of what this is:

“The picture is of a 30m long oil-filled tube containing an array of 4 state-of-the-art hydrophones with preamplifiers, spaced 2m apart (hence the aperture of the active part is 6m). The oil-filled tube allows the array to be neutrally buoyant and either towed or hung vertically in the water with the minimum pickup of flow noise. There is also a portable 96 kSa/s 4-channel recorder in the centre of the image that will record sounds up to 48 kHz from the array onto an SD card. Since the oil-filled tube is 30m long, we can deploy the 4 hydrophones at the depth of our choice up to about 20m below the surface. This will allow us to record humpback sound at close range, without disturbing the whales, with the highest quality and with the possibility to measure their range and source levels. Think of the 4 hydrophones as being able to record a kind of surround-sound, hyper-stereo, THX acoustic landscape.”

After reading this a couple of times, I think it means: “It’s a kick-a** hydrophone that we can send down to 20 metres and record really cool whale sounds.” though I’m not entirely certain.

Anyway, we’ll be using this high-tech gadget on the trips that John and I are running together in Tonga soon, with the objective of kicking off what we hope will be a long-running project to understand more about acoustic communication among humpback whales. (More explanation about our trip/ project here.)

There are still a couple of spots left on the first trip from 29 July to 4 August. Drop me a line if you’re interested in helping me decipher John-speak for a few days.

Adventures With Craig

For the past couple of weeks, I’ve been completely occupied putting the following video together:


Downloadable copy available via my iTunes podcast. Music by Alain Thomas via Musicalley.com

I shot all of the video footage and most of the photos during a month-long stay in Papua New Guinea last year aboard the MV Golden Dawn, a trip I co-organised with Eric Cheng and Wetpixel.

Of note…I captured all the video footage with DSLR cameras, using a Canon 5D Mark II underwater and a Canon 7D topside. This is also the first time I’ve edited anything with Final Cut Pro and Motion, both part of Apple’s Final Cut Studio software collection. (So cut me some slack if you see mistakes/ areas for improvement! I think I did an excellent job of making Craig look. No simple task by any means.)

In case it’s not obvious, the waters of Papua New Guinea are absolutely amazing. I’m planning a few more trips with Craig for June 2011 and January 2012. We’re still ironing out specifics, but check back soon for details!

Note: For contrast and comparison, here’s another video I posted earlier from the same trip, with footage taken with a very different type of camera.

Of Humpbacks and Humans

This is a true story.

Like most stories worth telling, there is a point. Several, in fact.

The Tragedy
On 11 August 2009, I and a bunch of friends from Japan encountered an injured humpback whale in the waters of Vava’u in the Kingdom of Tonga.

It was just the sort of day for a tragedy. The skies were grey and overcast; the seas a drab, murky mess; visibility both in and out of the water low; the prevailing mood “depressed”.

Sighting whales was, of course, the reason we were out and about, so finding a pair of approachable whales was a good thing. Or so it seemed.

Not long after entering the water, we noticed that something was wrong. With poor visibility, it was difficult at first to pinpoint precisely what that “something” was, but once the whales passed within close proximity, it was obvious.

injured humpback whale

One of the whales was hog-tied. Its pectoral fins were bound to its side, and the rope or netting had sliced into the animal’s body. The injured cetacean was weak. It couldn’t swim properly. It was covered with parasites. And there were sharks circling…waiting, no doubt, for an easy meal. The scene was heart-wrenching.

Despite my desire to stick with the whales, I pulled everyone out of the water in short order. Several large bronze whaler sharks shot up at high speed from the murky depths and buzzed us. The conditions were ideal for sharks on the prowl, not so good for land-lubbers flopping around at the surface.

Back on the boat, we followed for some time, long enough to see that the uninjured whale stayed with the injured one, perhaps protecting it, perhaps hoping for a miracle. Difficult to know for sure.

The injured whale was a female. It was, without question, about to die.

injured humpback whale

The Drama
As shocking and depressing as our experience had been, the real story took place after we got back on land.

News of our encounter spread quickly through the community. By the time we washed up and went to dinner, many people in town had heard about the encounter, though…as is often the case…the specific details of our experience seemed to become more distorted with each re-telling of the tale.

Several people, expats who live and/ or work in Vava’u, informed us that they knew who was responsible for the doomed whale’s plight.

To elaborate, they told us that it was the practice of some villages in the area to use nets to catch sea turtles for food.

They further informed us that many of the expats had been trying to teach the locals about why turtle nets are a no-no.

Slaughtering endangered sea turtles and ruining reefs was bad enough, but now…it was obvious that someone’s turtle net had killed a humpback whale! This, of course, was an unforgiveable transgression.

Person after person agreed, and a bit of a mob mentality developed. Emotions escalated. Indignation permeated. Within short order, several people asked us to give them copies of our photos so that they could use the images to educate the locals.

Actually, “asked” doesn’t convey the correct connotation. “Demanded” is more accurate.

There were, of course, some polite requests, but one woman (a person we hadn’t previously spoke with) in particular became quite agitated. She insisted that we hand over our photos because, well…it was for a “non-profit” cause. Emphasising repeatedly that her demands were for a “non-profit” purpose, she produced a USB memory device and stuck it in one of my friend’s faces saying “Put the files on this” in an emphatic tone.

Yes…she stuck a memory device in his face and demanded that he give his photos to her. That very instant. Or else. She pouted and stammered a few times to underscore how serious she was.

Given that we hadn’t even had time to look at the images ourselves and were still trying to process what exactly we had witnessed, I didn’t think it appropriate to hand anything over, and I particularly didn’t think that we should be “educating” the locals quite just yet.

We declined the requests several times in a graceful manner, until that particularly demanding woman became so obnoxious and unbearable that I set aside all pretence of polite social discourse and put an abrupt, unambiguous stop to the insanity. The audience dispersed.

In the ensuing days, I had time to examine the photos closely. I went out of my way to ask about turtle nets. I tried, in vain, to set up a meeting to see an actual turtle net (seems like they’re not that common). I showed fishermen (both local and expat) the photos and asked their opinions.

Eventually, I concluded that the net was not a net. It was a longline. At 100% magnification, the metal clips characteristic of longline fishing were obvious in many of the photographs. The fishermen I consulted agreed.

This, of course, made much more sense. Humpback whales travel long, long distances in the open ocean. Fishing fleets set longlines in the open ocean. Villagers, to the extent they use turtle nets, wouldn’t be using them in open ocean. They would more likely use them in coastal waters.

The chances of a whale getting entangled in an industrial-strength, open-ocean longline are much greater than in a handmade net set near the coast.

The Lessons
Everyone was upset about the tragic, pointless death of the whale. Rightly so.

The people who became distraught and unreasonable were good people who just got carried away. It happens.

But I learned some things about human nature and behaviour from the experience. Things I wanted to jot down so I don’t forget, and also to guide my own conduct if I should ever again find myself in a similar situation.

1. Don’t ever assume anything. Get the facts. Think things through. Then draw conclusions.

The expats in this story assumed, with zero evidence, that local villagers were responsible for the death of a humpback whale. They were, in effect, ready to lynch the locals for killing the animal.

The problem is that they formed their views based on emotion, not fact.

Longline fishing is the practice of rich, industrialised countries. So if someone were looking to assign blame, it would be the expats and tourists (me included) from rich industrialised countries who were more closely associated with the whale’s death than the local villagers.

Discouraging the use of turtle nets might be a valid issue. But it had nothing…absolutely nothing…to do with the plight of the poor humpback whale we encountered.

2. Always avoid mobs.

Person after person piled on and agreed that local villagers were responsible for the death of an innocent whale. The thing is, of the people tossing around accusations, none…not a one…had seen the whale in question.

Herd mentality is bad, and it’s much too easy to get swept away in the moment if you cede self-control and good judgement to a mob.

3. Using the term “non-profit” does not mean you can demand anything you want.

The woman who was so indignant that we didn’t immediatley hand over all our photos as soon as she mentioned the term “non-profit” was clearly under the impression that using the term “non-profit” gives you a license to steal.

Yes, demanding property that isn’t yours is theft.

I encounter this mentality with disturbing regularity. Many people seem to believe that simply being a non-profit entity, or worse, just stating an intention to undertake something in a “non-profit” manner entitles you to demand stuff for free…especially photographs.

The woman in question owns a yacht, along with her husband. Had I demanded the unconditional and immediate use of her yacht for “non-profit” research, I’m sure she would have balked at the suggestion.

And yet, she was, and perhaps may still be, entirely convinced of her right to appropriate other people’s property simply by labelling her demand as “non-profit”.

That, in my book, is a “non-starter”.

My Silly Friends at Kasawari

As usual, I had a terrific stay at Kasawari Lembeh Resort…a long one this time, just over three weeks.

It always feels like home at the resort, due entirely to the warmth of the people who work here.

kasawari staff

A group picture is great, but video is much better at conveying the way things are here. I had to coax a little silliness from the gang, but actually, they’re always like this!

Thanks for a great stay, and see you again soon!