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Giving Back

Each year, many of the people who join us in Tonga bring along school supplies, which we arrange to be distributed to schools on the outer islands.


School supplies and reading glasses donated by our friends

It’s not much, but every little bit helps, especially in remote locations.

Most of us who live in cities take things like pencils and erasers for granted, but out here, they’re not necessarily so easy to come by (especially cute bunny pencils).

Also, thanks to Serene, Rachel and May from Singapore, this year we have a substantial supply of reading glasses to distribute, which will hopefully come in handy for people who are a bit older and need some help reading fine print.


Takaji demonstrating his patented reverse-leg-kick focus-adjustment technique

Me At Work

For the 2010 humpback whale season in Tonga, I’ve traded in my heavy all-black overcoat for a lighter orange jacket with reflective tape, primarily because I had to cut weight to meet airline baggage restrictions.

As you can see, I’m making the best of it. First, there’s no way anyone can miss me with this coat on…which is generally a good thing out on the water.

As an added bonus, my black wetsuit + orange jacket just happen to match the black-and-orange hard case that I carry with me every day, as well as my all-black underwater camera housing.

Who says fashion sense has to suffer if you’re out whale watching?

Of course, the bright white croc knock-offs I procured locally sort of spoil my colour-coordination, but hey…there’s only so much I can do out here.

Several people have already complimented me on my appearance, so perhaps my innovative Black-and-Orange-Dorky-Whale-Watcher look will catch on.

The orange jacket is actually standard wear for construction workers and other laborers in Japan, so at the very least, I’m sure my Japanese friends will get a kick out of it.

Pot of Gold

I wonder if there’s any truth to the saying that there’s a pot of gold at the end of rainbow.

If so, the guy on this yacht is in for a surprise!


Rainbow in the morning: Neiafu Harbour in Vava’u, Tonga

Dances With Seahorses

Richard Smith is an eager young marine biologist and underwater photographer who lives in Brisbane, Down Under. He is writing his PhD thesis about pygmy seahorses, and from what I gather, he may actually even finish it.

I’ve only met him once, by chance in the Lembeh Strait last year, and I only had the opportunity to speak with him for half an hour or so.

He seemed pleasant enough, and he’s even planning a trip to dive in Japan with my friends in Izu.

It struck me as somewhat odd, however, that the dates he picked for his visit to Japan coincide with dates that I specifically told him I can’t possibly join him.

I mean…we share common interests, and we had a terrific talk in Lembeh, so why…I wondered…could he possibly be avoiding me?

After thinking long and hard about this conundrum, the proverbial light bulb went off in my head.

This short video clip of Richard explaining the mating rituals of pygmy seahorses to me when we met in Lembeh probably has something to do with it:

(In case it’s not obvious, the point of this post is that if you meet (or already know) Richard, you absolutely must ask him to do the pygmy seahorse mating dance. Even better if you video it and post to the www.)

C.N’a

The countdown to Tonga has begun, and I’m scrambling around with more than the usual level of chaos, since I just got back from Bangkok and have had less time than normal to sort through my piles of stuff to get (somewhat) organised.

Vava’u has become like a second home to me over the years, and I particularly look forward to seeing friends and their families…including pets.

This is C.N’a:


Ever-curious, but camera-shy C.N’a

C.N’a stands for “Crow’s Nest”. Many words in Tongan have the ‘a syllable appended to the end. I don’t understand enough Tongan to know if there’s a meaning to the ‘a or if it’s for emphasis, but in any case, it’s pronounced “Sienna”.

There’s a touching story behind C.N’a. The short version is that she was one of the many stray dogs in the area, but different enough from the other dogs that it’s possible she was left behind by one of the boats.

In fact, she apparently visited the area in front of the Crow’s Nest, which is a bakery/ restaurant adjacent to the main harbour, each morning. The owners of the Crow’s Nest, Stephen and Tess, gradually befriended her, and at this point, she’s a permanent fixture, arguably the boss.

She apparently still hates being left behind though, and has been spotted chasing Stephen and Tess’s car down the main road when they inadvertently forgot her. That must be quite a sight!

C.N’a is very friendly, especially if you happen to have one of Stephen’s fresh-baked banana muffins with you. Stephen makes fresh bread and pastries every day, no doubt to keep C.N’a happy:


C.N’a’s caretaker and sometimes chef, Stephen

C.N’a is camera-shy, so it took quite a bit of coaxing to get her to pose. I suspect she can hear the high-pitch tone of the autofocus mechanism. I had to switch to manual focus to keep her from wandering away.

If you’re ever in Vava’u, stop by the Crow’s Nest to say hello to C.N’a and Tess (and yes…I guess Stephen too).

…back to packing

National Museum Exhibit in Tokyo

I just received this snapshot of my photo of a sperm whale eating giant squid from a friend who visited the National Museum of Nature and Science in Tokyo earlier today. The photo is from a trip to Ogasawara, Japan in October 2009.


My photo on display at the National Museum of Nature and Science in Tokyo

The special exhibit about marine mammals will continue until 26 September. I haven’t been able to see the exhibit yet, but I’ve received a lot of positive feedback.

If you’re in Tokyo and have time, it might be worth dropping by.

Incidentally, the same photo is also on display at the Natural History Museum in London, though friends tell me the sperm whale section is dark and difficult to find.

Thanks Michiyo-san!

Update 26 July: I received a couple more photos of the exhibit from another friend:


Crowd looking at the sperm whale exhibit


Another view of the display with my sperm whale photo

Thanks Wakae-san!

Pasta’s Peaches

Three years ago, I won a peach (桃) tree cutting playing rock-paper-scissors at a local festival, while taking my dog Pasta for a walk.


Pasta checking out the peach tree cutting I won

We planted the tree, and really didn’t do much else, but I always thought of that tree as “Pasta’s peach tree”, since she was so happy to be taking a walk that pleasant spring day, and was ecstatic that we won something (despite the fact that it turned out not to be a doggy snack).

Earlier this year, we finally saw fruits developing on the tree…three peaches to be precise:


After three years, we had our first three peaches

And today, we tasted the ripe peaches. Surprisingly, considering how little effort we put into cultivating the plant, the peaches were absolutely delicious…better, in fact, that store-bought fruits.


The first ripe peach

It’s been almost exactly two years since Pasta died, so this was a really nice way to remember her, and to take a little time out to reminisce about the many (mis)adventures we shared.

Incidentally, there’s a saying in Japanese that goes 桃栗3年、柿8年 which translates as “peaches and chestnuts three years, persimmons eight years”, meaning that it takes time for things to ripen/ come to fruition…the implication being that it pays to be patient.

Actually, most people probably don’t realise it, but that’s only the first line of a longer bit of folk wisdom. The full saying is:

桃栗3年、柿8年、
梅はすいすい13年、
ユズは大バカ18年、
りんごニコニコ25年、
女房の不作は60年、
亭主の不作はこれまた一生、
あーこりゃこりゃ

I won’t attempt to translate this, but if you happen to read Japanese, it’s rather entertaining…and totally true.

Ayutthaya

A couple of days after TDEX wrapped up, a few of us drove up to Ayutthaya. Actually, a couple of us drove. The rest of us sat in the back asking: “Are we there yet?” at 30-second intervals.

The primary goal was to have lunch at a restaurant called Ton Nam that’s famous for serving river prawns.


River prawns at Ton Nam restaurant, Ayutthaya

We also tried a thai dessert/ snack called roti sai mai, which is sort of like stringy cotton candy that you wrap in a thin roti. I’m not really a dessert person, but it was good, as you can see from the expression on Mean’s face:


Mean enjoying roti sai mai

To work off some of the calories ingested, we spent a bit of time walking around a couple of the temples, mostly Wat Mahathat and the reclining Buddha. If you live in Bangkok or have occasion to visit Thailand, it’s worth travelling to Ayutthaya to learn a little about Thai history. The first time I visited the old part of the city was over 20 years ago.


Aey and Mean at the reclining Buddha in Ayutthaya

It was a weekday during rainy season, so there weren’t many other people around. This gave us the perfect opportunity to conduct extensive tests of our photo and video gear…as you can see in the two series of gif files below.

Among us, we had a Canon IXY220IS compact camera, an Olympus Pen camera, a Panasonic GF-1, a Canon 5D Mark II and a Sony CX550V handycam…so we had to put all the hi-tech hardware to good use.

It probably says a lot about us that this was what we decided to do:



Despite appearances (particularly Eric’s Calvin-like grin), this was a serious camera test. Eric was running through us with the video camera set to capture slow-motion footage.

One of the clips actually turned out quite nicely. I’m sure Eric will post it once he’s back home…if for nothing more than to demonstrate that there really was a (somewhat) constructive purpose to his running a slalom course in the middle of the old city of Ayutthaya.

And of course, after getting back to Bangkok, we went for more food, starting with incredibly good Som Tam Gai Yang (green papaya salad, grilled chicken, plus other stuff) and sticky rice:


Eric Cheng with sticky rice

…followed by my all-time favourite dessert, mango with sticky rice, from the vendor on the corner of Thonglor and Sukhumvit:


Fresh mangos…for mango with sticky rice!

Eating so much in one day was certainly hard work, but someone had to do it.

Underwater Festival 2011

underwater festival 2011I’ve just enlisted to help out with a really ambitious project, which is part of the Underwater Festival 2011.

In short, between 2 and 11 September next year, participants in over 25 countries throughout the Oceania and Asia regions will participate in a simultaneous underwater photo shootout and compete for $100,000 of prizes.

(I just realised I don’t know which country’s $ this means, but it doesn’t matter…there’s a lot up for grabs!)

The top 100 photos will be put on display at the inaugural Oceania Dive and Travel Expo (“ODEX”) scheduled for 30 September to 2 October in Brisbane.

I’ll be one of the photo contest judges, and I may be putting together a trip in Tonga to coincide with the shootout period.

See the Underwater Festival 2011 website for more details.

Ketchuppy?

Every time I trawl through my virtual mountains of data, I come across images I’ve completely forgotten, like this one:

ketchup bottle

It’s the label of a ketchup bottle aboard Golden Dawn.

Question: Is “ketchuppy” a real word???

Credit for spotting this grammatical conundrum goes to Julie Edwards, who seems to have an unusually keen eye for oddball things!

New Math

There’s something that’s bothered me for a long time. Like years. A couple of decades, actually.

Bicycles are a big part of life in Japan. Many people use bicycles to get around, particularly to get to-and-from train stations, from which they commute to-and-from work, school and such.

If you live in a country where bicycles are not a mainstream form of transport, it might not occur to you, but with thousands of bicycles in every neighborhood, there is substantial demand for parking space.

Around most train stations, particularly those in or near major urban centers, there are dedicated parking lots for bicycles. They range from simple open-air plots of land to fancy multi-level covered parking lots…just like there are for cars.

Of course, you have to pay to use these bicycle parking lots.

The thing that’s bugged me for so long is the pricing system. Example below:

illogical sign

The typical arrangement is something like what’s indicated above. For bicycles: 1,500 Yen for one month; 4,500 Yen for three months. (The 2,000/6,000 pricing is for small scooters.)

Umm…duh.

I have never been able to figure out why it’s necessary to show the price for three months.

Most people in Japan, I assume, are able to multiply 1,500 Yen by three to derive 4,500 Yen, so why the need for that extra column? Just to fill up space perhaps? Why not list the prices for two, four, five, six, seven, etc. months as well if we’re going to do simple calculations for everyone?

I know. In the grand scheme of things, it’s not a big deal. It’s just something that gets under my skin every time I pass one of these signs.

Today, however, I came across this sign…

logical sign

…and felt an enormous burden lifted off my shoulders.

Looks like someone else finally figured out the math and realised the three-month deal wasn’t such a bargain after all.

Of Humpbacks and Humans

This is a true story.

Like most stories worth telling, there is a point. Several, in fact.

The Tragedy
On 11 August 2009, I and a bunch of friends from Japan encountered an injured humpback whale in the waters of Vava’u in the Kingdom of Tonga.

It was just the sort of day for a tragedy. The skies were grey and overcast; the seas a drab, murky mess; visibility both in and out of the water low; the prevailing mood “depressed”.

Sighting whales was, of course, the reason we were out and about, so finding a pair of approachable whales was a good thing. Or so it seemed.

Not long after entering the water, we noticed that something was wrong. With poor visibility, it was difficult at first to pinpoint precisely what that “something” was, but once the whales passed within close proximity, it was obvious.

injured humpback whale

One of the whales was hog-tied. Its pectoral fins were bound to its side, and the rope or netting had sliced into the animal’s body. The injured cetacean was weak. It couldn’t swim properly. It was covered with parasites. And there were sharks circling…waiting, no doubt, for an easy meal. The scene was heart-wrenching.

Despite my desire to stick with the whales, I pulled everyone out of the water in short order. Several large bronze whaler sharks shot up at high speed from the murky depths and buzzed us. The conditions were ideal for sharks on the prowl, not so good for land-lubbers flopping around at the surface.

Back on the boat, we followed for some time, long enough to see that the uninjured whale stayed with the injured one, perhaps protecting it, perhaps hoping for a miracle. Difficult to know for sure.

The injured whale was a female. It was, without question, about to die.

injured humpback whale

The Drama
As shocking and depressing as our experience had been, the real story took place after we got back on land.

News of our encounter spread quickly through the community. By the time we washed up and went to dinner, many people in town had heard about the encounter, though…as is often the case…the specific details of our experience seemed to become more distorted with each re-telling of the tale.

Several people, expats who live and/ or work in Vava’u, informed us that they knew who was responsible for the doomed whale’s plight.

To elaborate, they told us that it was the practice of some villages in the area to use nets to catch sea turtles for food.

They further informed us that many of the expats had been trying to teach the locals about why turtle nets are a no-no.

Slaughtering endangered sea turtles and ruining reefs was bad enough, but now…it was obvious that someone’s turtle net had killed a humpback whale! This, of course, was an unforgiveable transgression.

Person after person agreed, and a bit of a mob mentality developed. Emotions escalated. Indignation permeated. Within short order, several people asked us to give them copies of our photos so that they could use the images to educate the locals.

Actually, “asked” doesn’t convey the correct connotation. “Demanded” is more accurate.

There were, of course, some polite requests, but one woman (a person we hadn’t previously spoke with) in particular became quite agitated. She insisted that we hand over our photos because, well…it was for a “non-profit” cause. Emphasising repeatedly that her demands were for a “non-profit” purpose, she produced a USB memory device and stuck it in one of my friend’s faces saying “Put the files on this” in an emphatic tone.

Yes…she stuck a memory device in his face and demanded that he give his photos to her. That very instant. Or else. She pouted and stammered a few times to underscore how serious she was.

Given that we hadn’t even had time to look at the images ourselves and were still trying to process what exactly we had witnessed, I didn’t think it appropriate to hand anything over, and I particularly didn’t think that we should be “educating” the locals quite just yet.

We declined the requests several times in a graceful manner, until that particularly demanding woman became so obnoxious and unbearable that I set aside all pretence of polite social discourse and put an abrupt, unambiguous stop to the insanity. The audience dispersed.

In the ensuing days, I had time to examine the photos closely. I went out of my way to ask about turtle nets. I tried, in vain, to set up a meeting to see an actual turtle net (seems like they’re not that common). I showed fishermen (both local and expat) the photos and asked their opinions.

Eventually, I concluded that the net was not a net. It was a longline. At 100% magnification, the metal clips characteristic of longline fishing were obvious in many of the photographs. The fishermen I consulted agreed.

This, of course, made much more sense. Humpback whales travel long, long distances in the open ocean. Fishing fleets set longlines in the open ocean. Villagers, to the extent they use turtle nets, wouldn’t be using them in open ocean. They would more likely use them in coastal waters.

The chances of a whale getting entangled in an industrial-strength, open-ocean longline are much greater than in a handmade net set near the coast.

The Lessons
Everyone was upset about the tragic, pointless death of the whale. Rightly so.

The people who became distraught and unreasonable were good people who just got carried away. It happens.

But I learned some things about human nature and behaviour from the experience. Things I wanted to jot down so I don’t forget, and also to guide my own conduct if I should ever again find myself in a similar situation.

1. Don’t ever assume anything. Get the facts. Think things through. Then draw conclusions.

The expats in this story assumed, with zero evidence, that local villagers were responsible for the death of a humpback whale. They were, in effect, ready to lynch the locals for killing the animal.

The problem is that they formed their views based on emotion, not fact.

Longline fishing is the practice of rich, industrialised countries. So if someone were looking to assign blame, it would be the expats and tourists (me included) from rich industrialised countries who were more closely associated with the whale’s death than the local villagers.

Discouraging the use of turtle nets might be a valid issue. But it had nothing…absolutely nothing…to do with the plight of the poor humpback whale we encountered.

2. Always avoid mobs.

Person after person piled on and agreed that local villagers were responsible for the death of an innocent whale. The thing is, of the people tossing around accusations, none…not a one…had seen the whale in question.

Herd mentality is bad, and it’s much too easy to get swept away in the moment if you cede self-control and good judgement to a mob.

3. Using the term “non-profit” does not mean you can demand anything you want.

The woman who was so indignant that we didn’t immediatley hand over all our photos as soon as she mentioned the term “non-profit” was clearly under the impression that using the term “non-profit” gives you a license to steal.

Yes, demanding property that isn’t yours is theft.

I encounter this mentality with disturbing regularity. Many people seem to believe that simply being a non-profit entity, or worse, just stating an intention to undertake something in a “non-profit” manner entitles you to demand stuff for free…especially photographs.

The woman in question owns a yacht, along with her husband. Had I demanded the unconditional and immediate use of her yacht for “non-profit” research, I’m sure she would have balked at the suggestion.

And yet, she was, and perhaps may still be, entirely convinced of her right to appropriate other people’s property simply by labelling her demand as “non-profit”.

That, in my book, is a “non-starter”.