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Munching Mikans

To work off some of the calories from indulging in far too many new year treats, I spent most of the afternoon yesterday helping out at a friend’s citrus farm, a place called Suzuki-en (鈴木園).

There are acres and acres of citrus trees, with different varieties in season throughout the year. Mandarin oranges, known in Japan as mikan (蜜柑, ミカン, or みかん), are the main fruit right now.

Since I spend much of my time in tropical climates with white sand and palm trees, it took a while to acclimate to the single-digit ºC temperature and winter wind, but it was certainly refreshing being outside, breathing in the crisp, clean air while I raked up leaves and fallen citrus bits, emptied containers, hauled stuff around, etc.

My body ached a bit last night from the manual labour, but I had so much fun that I’m heading back after I post this to lend a hand again.

Of course, I sampled a few mikans here and there throughout the day, and took some back as natural Vitamin C supplements for the cold winter evening…which is to say…I ate too much again.

mikan

Making Mochi

Eating (too much) is an integral part of the new year celebration in Japan.

A staple of new year fare here is mochi (お餅), which is basically mashed-up sticky rice.

In times gone by, everyone made their own mochi by steaming and pounding the rice themselves. In our modern, civilised existence, most people just buy mochi pre-prepared.

Store-bought mochi can still be delicious and filling, but it’s even better hand-made, as I learned a few days ago when I had a chance to participate in a mochi-making party (餅つき) for the first time.

Below is a short video:

Making Mochi from Tony Wu on Vimeo.

In case you’re interested, l took all the footage with a Canon EOS 7D.

…time to eat again.

10 Great Places to Eat in Phuket

In case it’s not completely obvious, I love the fact that I get to try lots of great food in many of the places I travel to, especially in Asia.

When I was in Phuket last year, we spent two entire days eating at local food stalls and restaurants…places not on the tourist map.

This is a short video summary of 10 recommendations for places to try, which goes together with this PDF file that has details of the specific locations and dishes…in case you’re heading over to Phuket.

Secret Soba

entranceAn integral part of the pleasure of travelling in Japan is the food.

Izu, for example, is famous for fresh seafood, as fishing is one of the primary pillars of the regional economy and society. Fresh fish and other marine products are available each day, which means awesome sashimi, sushi and other traditional Japanese seafood dishes.

Perhaps less well-known outside the country is the long-standing noodle tradition in Japan.

You may have heard of soba noodles, which are made out of buckwheat, and you might have even had some.

But store-bought dried soba (or even worse, the sad soggy stuff they serve on some airlines) is to the real stuff what pre-packaged, mass-produced white bread is to piping-hot, fresh-from-the-oven French bread.

Not to be a culinary snob, but there’s just no comparison to the real thing.

Here in Izu, Shinohara-san took me to a well-kept secret…a soba place that’s tucked away in a residential neighborhood, inside a normal house. The family who lives there serves lunch five days a week…and the soba noodles are out-of-this-world delicious.

soba noodles

Even better, it’s inexpensive. For somewhere between 800 and 1000 Yen, depending on what you order, you get fresh soba plus side dishes…more than enough to satisfy even big eaters like me.

The best part though, is that the restaurant is completely off the tourist map, which means there are usually people there but it’s never swamped, the food is always terrific, and the people there remember you.

Pad Thai

Finally, I managed to have Thai food for dinner. We went to a place known as pad thai pratuphi for pad thai, certainly among the most popular of well-known Thai dishes and one of my favourites.

It’s a small local restaurant near the Grand Palace. The restaurant is really famous and always packed. It’s also impossible to find by myself, which means I need to rope friends into going (not difficult to do).

The pad thai is absolutely delicious. I always get it haw khai style, which means having the noodles wrapped in a delicate layer of egg, along with a glass of the restaurant’s freshly squeezed orange juice, which is out-of-this-world yummy.

Watching the cooks prepare the pad thai and wrap it in egg is fascinating. Of course, eating the finished product is even better. I never manage to escape without at least two servings.

Tea Twister

There are other shows going on in the same venue as the dive show, including one devoted to food. I couldn’t resist taking a quick video of this unique method of making tea. Sure makes a plain old tea bag seem dull.

I wanted to spend some time taking photos of this talented tea twister, but had to run for a photography seminar I was giving along with a couple of Thai photographer friends.

Culinary Irony

dinnerDespite my constant whining about wanting to go out for Thai food, we ended up eating a late dinner at a Japanese restaurant last night…the obvious choice given that I’d just travelled all the way from Japan to Thailand for the dive show.

Everyone else was happy, so I made the best of it, even managing a smile for the obligatory group photo.

Hmmm, now I can’t wait to get back to Japan to go out for Thai food!

Hi-Tech Sushi

sushiFinally made it to Narita, the international airport near Tokyo. It’s incredibly inconvenient. For a 09:30 flight I had to get up at 04:30 (but I overslept ’til 05:00). For all of Japan’s hi-tech achievements, it can be an awfully inefficient and illogical place.

I’m sitting in the airline lounge now, laptop computer out, hooked up to the net via wireless, compact digital camera in hand, card reader to transfer files to my laptop…all this whiz-bang gadgetry just to upload a photo of sushi (a fish photo of sorts).

Obviously, at this early hour, there’s no way I can stomach sushi. Coffee, a bagel, and some vegetable soup is more than enough.

Pasta Prefers Pizza

pastaIt’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve posted anything. Life’s been hectic…meetings, articles to submit, errands to run…the usual.

But also, it’s autumn in Japan. The weather’s been a little funky, but overall, it’s been absolutely beautiful. We had a typhoon pass through yesterday, but today was probably the most gorgeous weather so far this year. And since it was a Sunday, there were lots of people out enjoying the perfect weather. Of course, Pasta (my golden retriever) isn’t one to miss such a golden opportunity (pardon the pun).

After her usual morning walk, Pasta seemed a bit restless. I decided to write-off the long list of “to do” items on my ever-growing, seemingly unending list of tasks, and took Pasta out for another stroll, with a stopover for lunch. Dining alfresco isn’t common in Japan, but there’s a pizza place nearby I’ve been meaning to try for a while, which just happens to have two tables outside…tailor-made for a day like today.

The name of the place is Pizza Salvatore Cuomo, and the pizza is frickin’ awesome. I kid you not. It’s spectacular, so good that I ended up ordering a second pizza after wolfing down the first one plus an order of pasta.

We had a pizza Calabrese (eggplants, olives, anchovies) and a special pasta of the day, then added a pizza Marinara No.1 (four types of tomatoes). If you’re ever in the Tokyo area and in the mood for pizza, this is the place. You will not regret it.

Anyway, one thing I discovered today is that Pasta prefers pizza over pasta, as is clear from the pictures below. Tired from all the walking, she wasn’t the least bit interested when the pasta was served, but the moment the pizza arrived…bingo! She was wide awake and sniffing away. My dog has impeccable taste. The pasta was really good, but let me repeat…the pizza was frickin’ out of this world.

pasta

After lunch we wandered around a bit, taking in the sights and sounds of autumn. I got to thinking about a conversation I had last week, while I was in town for a meeting with a person I know from Sea & Sea.

As we sat in the lobby of a big, shiny office building, I mentioned to him that I really love autumn. Being from outside Tokyo, he agreed, and we got to chatting about city people. Sitting in that enormous marble, steel and chrome lobby, we watched as hundreds of people shuffled back-and-forth in front of us, going to meetings, leaving meetings, entering elevators, heading into cubicles…as busy and driven as dedicated workers in an ant colony, and seemingly as oblivious of everything around them.

acornsI commented on the fact that the leaves were turning colours, flowers and trees producing seeds and nuts, air getting crisp and clear…and he noted that most of the people in the building probably had no idea any of this was happening…at least not directly. Most people understand in principle what happens in autumn, but it’s one thing to “know” something in a book-learning, theoretical kind of way, and quite another to experience it directly by feeling, tasting, touching, smelling and hearing it.

It’s a bit sad, isn’t it? There’s so much going on around us, and most city folk don’t have the time or interest to enjoy it.

In my mind, this is the main reason that the world’s in so much trouble. Most urban dwellers are largely, if not completely, out of touch with the world. We live in air-conditioned/ heated houses, travel in cars/ trains/ buses/ planes to an air-conditioned/ heated office, exercise in air-conditioned/ heated clubs, eat in posh restaurants where you don’t get your hands dirty preparing food (much less having to find/ hunt/ fish for it), etc., etc., etc.

There are so many times I’ve had conversations with people, both directly and virtually, when it’s just obvious to me that they’re not connected to the world. The thing I wonder about though, is how it is that many of these people, who live most or all of their lives in urban cocoons, feel so highly qualified to judge what needs to be done to fix nature.

If only the pitfalls of pontificating from afar were more obvious.

grasshopperWe went into our meeting, in a room with no windows, no contact with the outside world, no connection with nature…and then we left. The meeting went extremely well, but I must confess that I breathed a silent but significant sigh of relief when I was finally able to leave the building and go back to the real world.

A grasshopper showed up suddenly and stirred me from my daydreaming, bringing me back to here-and-now. I was just about to take Pasta back home, but reflecting on that conversation earlier in the week, I realised that the to-do list could wait, and my time today was much better spent watching Pasta watch the grasshopper watch me watch the seasons change.

Basashi 馬刺

basashiWith all the places I go and the people I meet, from time-to-time it’s inevitable that I’ll find myself in a situation with food that I “must try”, even though all things being equal, I’d probably rather not.

A few nights ago, I was taken out by some very nice people to a restaurant that serves one thing, and one thing only…horse meat. The cuisine is from an area in southern Japan known as Kumamoto. The restaurant, called Haruya, is in a part of Tokyo known as Yotsuya, on a street filled with places to eat and drink.

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Of Cartilage and Con Artists

One of the things that really gets to me is con artists who try to dupe innocent people by concocting some obscenely stupid story to fool people into spending money on silly (or worse, sometimes harmful) products or services. For some reason, the marine world seems to attract more than its fair share of these shysters.

One of the perpetual scams has been the notion that since sharks don’t get cancer, then ingesting shark cartilage will ward off cancer and/ or save you if you already have cancer. “Health food” stores around the world peddle the stuff, with helpful, but ignorant, sales people touting the magical healing properties of shark cartilage supplements. (See article I wrote earlier about this.)

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Coffee Woes

I walked into a coffee place today, a popular chain, and asked for a regular decaf coffee. The guy taking my order nodded and said, “One decaf Latte”.

“Actually, could I just get a regular decaf coffee?” I repeated.

“Right, one decaf Latte”, he repeated.

“Ummm, how about a regular decaf coffee, not a Latte?” I asked in the most polite and patient voice I could muster.

Puzzled look from the obviously befuddled guy behind the counter, who exchanged knowing glances with his co-workers. Finally, he said slowly but kindly (as if addressing Forrest Gump): “We don’t serve decaf coffee.”

“I see. Do you have anything decaf besides Latte?” I asked.

“We have decaf Americano.” he quipped immediately.

“Ok, forget the decaf coffee and give me a decaf Americano.”

Content now, he took my order, and I got my decaf coffee Americano. An awful lot of trouble to get a frickin’ decaf coffee.