Archive for May, 2008

Sabah Bound

I’m on the way to Sabah now, for a week of diving, meeting new people, and learning about new developments in the area. It’s been a while since I’ve spent any significant time in Sabah, so it’ll almost be like visiting for the first time.

Specifically, I’ll be visiting Sipadan, Mabul and Mataking…all of which are well known in the diving community…as well as spending some time in less well known areas (I hope). As is the case with all adventures, I have a general idea of what’s going to happen, but I’m also certain that what actually takes place will be different from what I think will happen. It’s only a question of how different.

That’s part of the fun (and sometimes the hassle) of travelling.

An Early Start
feetThe alarm went off at 03:15 this morning. I woke up (sort of), sorted myself out (sort of) and got in a taxi at 03:50 with my two travelling companions for this journey…Aey and Mean, the Associate Publisher and Graphic Designer of FiNS Magazine.

The ride to the airport was a haze of darkness punctuated by streaks of neon. The Man U/ Chelsea game was on the radio (in Thai of course). The occasional cheers and groans of the commentators let me know when something significant happened, at which point I’d have to ask “What happened?”, despite being too groggy to comprehend what anyone said.

We reached the airport when game time drew to a close, with Man U and Chelsea tied 1-1, meaning penalty kicks to decide the outcome. Dragging ourselves into the airport just after 04:20, we saw an amazing number of people already at the Air Asia counter, and we heard an even larger number of people cheering on the football (that’s “soccer” for US people) match.

airportWe stood zombie-like near the check-in counters for a while, not asleep, but not entirely awake yet either. A crowd coalesced at the check-in lanes, and a loud roar that echoed through the airport indicated that someone had won the match (Man U as I later learned). We lined up with everyone else.

The earlier confusion about baggage allowance was a concern. We had packed bags based on the ability to check-in our diving gear as “sports equipment” for a minimum fee, despite being told by Air Asia Bangkok that there is no allowance for sports equipment (in direct contradiction to what Air Asia HQ in Malaysia told us).

When our turn to check in finally came, I started up my video camera just in case we had a problem. Fortunately, the woman checking us in was friendly. Initially, she told us we’d need to pay some ridiculous excess baggage charge, but when we explained Air Asia’s corporate policy of allowing sports equipment allowance at a fixed charge, she cooperated. We paid Baht 350 per bag for two bags of 15kg each with diving gear, which was perfectly reasonable. Hurray!

I’m not sure if having a video camera aimed at the check-in counter during the entire discussion helped or not, but I think I’m going to make a habit of it. And I’m still an un-fan of Air Asia.

Food Tip
food courtA note for travellers passing through Bangkok’s new airport: If you’re hungry and don’t feel like paying the exorbitant prices inside the terminal, then after you check-in, don’t go through immigration, and instead head to Level 1. Hidden in one corner is the amusingly named “Magic Food Point”.

It’s a 24-hour food court that few people seem to know about. Baht 100 will buy you plenty of food, Like many other food courts in Thailand, you need to purchase coupons or tickets first and use those to pay for food. Return any unused tickets to the cashier counter after you’re done and they’ll refund you the balance.

I got some khao tom pla (fish porridge) and chicken rice for Baht 75. Not the best I’ve ever had, but decent enough at 05:00.

KL Budget Terminal
So I’m sitting at the Kuala Lumpur airport budget terminal now, enduring a five-hour layover until the next flight. At times like this, having travelling companions around is a big help. When you’re alone, with tonnes of baggage, and you need to go to the toilet, you either gotta drag everything in with you (usually impractical) or just grin and bear it. Few things are as unpleasant as grinning and bearing it.

movieTravelling companions can also be good for conversation to pass time, though my young friends seem more preoccupied with watching a movie on their iPhone than with talking to me. Not only is this anti-social, but it’s also being insensitive to the fact that I don’t have an iPhone, even though I really want one. Young people these days. Sheesh.

Something worth mentioning is that going through the immigration process this morning was paperless. Yup, no forms to fill out. Conditioned as I am to fill out forms ad nauseum to please bureaucrats the world over, I frantically looked for forms as we got off the plane, experiencing a mild sensation of panic when I couldn’t find any.

Even as I looked around and saw that no one else had forms, it was difficult for me to accept that bureaucrats would forego an opportunity to present hapless travellers with pointless forms, and the tingling in my gut remained until I cleared immigration without even so much as being asked for my signature.

I have no idea whether this is a permanent change, or perhaps they just ran out of forms, but I hope the entire world moves to going paperless. Not only would this be a helluva lot better for the environment (no paper, no ink), but it would save countless (and pointless) hours of labour (filling out, sorting, processing, throwing away forms that quite possibly no one ever looks at).

As impressed as I was with the efficient paperless bureaucracy however, I was quickly brought back to reality when I read the Customs notice at the luggage conveyer belt. The board spells out a list of dutiable and non-dutiable items. Pretty standard and unexciting fare, unless you take the time to read the list.

customsAmong the more amusing points:

  • Golf clubs are not dutiable. Golf balls are dutiable. (Why the balls, but not the clubs?)
  • All other types of balls are not dutiable. (Why pick on golf balls?)
  • Gold Coins and gold bars are not dutiable. Jewellery and imitation jewellery is. (What happens if you have jewellery made of gold coins?)
  • All musical instruments are not dutiable. Upright pianos are. (I suppose grand pianos are exempt from duty then?)
  • Fountain pens are not dutiable. Ball point pens made of artificial plastic are dutiable (which begs the question, “What is natural plastic?”)
  • Calendars are dutiable. (huh?)
  • Playing cards are dutiable. (huh?)
  • Footwear is dutiable (including the shoes you’re wearing?).

I’m sure there are reasons for all of these and the other items listed, but reading the list did re-affirm my faith in bungling bureaucracy.

That’s it for now. Only three more hours to go…

Pad Thai

Finally, I managed to have Thai food for dinner. We went to a place known as pad thai pratuphi for pad thai, certainly among the most popular of well-known Thai dishes and one of my favourites.

It’s a small local restaurant near the Grand Palace. The restaurant is really famous and always packed. It’s also impossible to find by myself, which means I need to rope friends into going (not difficult to do).

The pad thai is absolutely delicious. I always get it haw khai style, which means having the noodles wrapped in a delicate layer of egg, along with a glass of the restaurant’s freshly squeezed orange juice, which is out-of-this-world yummy.

Watching the cooks prepare the pad thai and wrap it in egg is fascinating. Of course, eating the finished product is even better. I never manage to escape without at least two servings.

Final Countdown

mannequinOne thing that’s common to all trade and consumer shows is how rapidly they end.

One minute, the exhibition hall is filled with people, the low rumble of background chatter, and booths crammed with equipment, brochures and other knick-knacks.

But as witching hour approaches, a barely perceptible, but omnipresent low-level hum inevitably resonants through the venue as exhibition attendees…weary from days of standing, smiling and talking…grow anxious in anticipation of dismantling their temporary homes.

Like sprinters tensing at their marks, exhibitors ready themselves for a fast-and-furious escape. The moment the show ends, people spring into action and everything comes down: Posters fall; structures collapse; displays decay into shambles.

I took a moment to walk around as the Thai Travel and Dive Expo wrapped up yesterday and marvelled at this process. Amid the hustle and bustle, I came across a lone sentinel standing witness to the end of the show.

Limbs ripped asunder, wetsuit and BCD packed away. A perfect visual metaphor for the final moments of the exhibition.

toastAfter everything was packed up, I went out for a celebratory/ thank-god-we’re-done dinner with a few friends. In keeping with the culinary irony theme of this trip, they took me to a branch of the Tawandang German Brewery for…you guessed it…beer and sausages. (Can you hear me whining about wanting Thai food?)

By the time we got there, it was quite late…a little after 22:00, way past my normal dinner time.

beerActually, the beer was good (served in enormous quantities), and we ordered some Thai food, including two servings of som tam (one of my favourites dishes) so I was happy.

The highlight of the evening, besides the company of friends of course, had to be the live entertainment. The restaurant is outside the main Bangkok area, near the new airport, sitting on a large plot of land.

The interior is laid out like a large German beer hall, complete with side-by-side wooden tables, large steins and plenty of beer.

At the front of the venue is a large stage, on which a band was performing when we walked in. Let’s just say the sound level was loud enough to knock the thoughts out of your head…before you have them.

The smiling restaurant staff seated us nice and close to the stage, no doubt thinking that this arrangement would be to our liking.

bandFortunately, with a bit of discussion and finger pointing (since the staff were probably too deaf to hear a word we were saying), we were able to move to the second level, a bit to the side of the main speakers, so the sound level was only skull-splitting.

One of the reasons I enjoy visiting Thailand is the tendency for people to be happy, at least outwardly so, and quite friendly. There’s a Thai word for this…sanook, which roughly means staying happy, being happy, etc. It’s an approach/ outlook on life that’s built into the culture.

Had I been anywhere else, I probably would’ve felt a bit tense (mild understatement), given the lateness of the meal, the blaring music and the fact that I wasn’t in a Thai restaurant. Perhaps due to the pervasive and high happiness quotient in Thailand, however, I’m generally more relaxed when I’m here and find it relatively easy to go with the flow.

If you’ve never been to Thailand, it’s difficult for me to describe this feeling in words, so this short video clip might help communicate the point:

The drunk dancing dude was amusing enough, but having the kid spontaneously join in sort of encapsulates the mood. You can’t help but smile when you see this.

There were other silly antics, some of which I caught on video, but mostly I sat back, enjoyed the music, the unusual atmosphere, and the company of good friends.

Finally, here’s another short clip which I think encapsulates both the surreal experience of having dinner at a German brewery while in Thailand and the feeling you get when you’ve finally finished a long dive show.

Tea Twister

There are other shows going on in the same venue as the dive show, including one devoted to food. I couldn’t resist taking a quick video of this unique method of making tea. Sure makes a plain old tea bag seem dull.

I wanted to spend some time taking photos of this talented tea twister, but had to run for a photography seminar I was giving along with a couple of Thai photographer friends.

Culinary Irony

dinnerDespite my constant whining about wanting to go out for Thai food, we ended up eating a late dinner at a Japanese restaurant last night…the obvious choice given that I’d just travelled all the way from Japan to Thailand for the dive show.

Everyone else was happy, so I made the best of it, even managing a smile for the obligatory group photo.

Hmmm, now I can’t wait to get back to Japan to go out for Thai food!

No Respect

I’ve been at the Thai Travel and Dive Expo since Thursday. Like all shows, the days are long and tiring. Spending lots of time together with the same people for so many hours a day requires strong friendships and a lot of mutual respect.

I’m 100 percent certain that my friends are happy to have me around.
tdex

Hi-Tech Sushi

sushiFinally made it to Narita, the international airport near Tokyo. It’s incredibly inconvenient. For a 09:30 flight I had to get up at 04:30 (but I overslept ’til 05:00). For all of Japan’s hi-tech achievements, it can be an awfully inefficient and illogical place.

I’m sitting in the airline lounge now, laptop computer out, hooked up to the net via wireless, compact digital camera in hand, card reader to transfer files to my laptop…all this whiz-bang gadgetry just to upload a photo of sushi (a fish photo of sorts).

Obviously, at this early hour, there’s no way I can stomach sushi. Coffee, a bagel, and some vegetable soup is more than enough.

Budget Baggage

equipmentAfter nearly three months without heavy-duty travel, I’m off again, this time to Bangkok first for the Thailand Travel and Dive Expo, and then over to Sabah, Malaysia. Packing is such a hassle already under normal circumstances, but it’s an even bigger headache than usual given my upcoming itinerary.

I need to fly on Asia Asia from Bangkok to Sabah. According to the Bangkok office of Air Asia, I’m only allowed 15kg total check-in and have to pay about US$5/ kg for excess. Air Asia HQ in Malaysia, however, allows an extra 15kg on top of the normal 15kg as a sports equipment allowance, for a small fee.

Air Asia Thailand refuses to give this sports equipment allowance, despite the fact that Air Asia HQ specifically said Air Asia Thailand should. I’m still trying to work out who’s actually calling the shots at Air Asia. Apparently they are too.

You know what? I hate budget airlines.

It’s not so much that the airline’s Thailand office wants to charge excess that bothers me. I understand that. It’s the fact that my baggage allowance is either 15kg or 30kg, depending on the mood of the person taking the booking, and the fact that Air Asia in Thailand appears to be making up the rules as it goes along instead of following corporate policy.

Given the apparent lack of management coordination at Air Asia, I’m going bare bones with my equipment. No scuba gear (all borrowed on site), and about 25kg of camera gear (which translates into being able to take only one camera underwater and having to travel with no back-up gear, something I haven’t done in years).

Note to self: Avoid Air Asia.

Armagnac and Bordeaux

bottlesI’m not a big drinker, but I’ve recently received a couple of presents that I’m really looking forward to imbibing.

The first is a bottle of Chateau de Bordes Jacques Morel 1967 vintage Armagnac, a present from Stéphane, whom I met recently in Papua New Guinea.

Stéphane had quite a few problems with his camera that I was able to help get resolved (with the help of ScubaCam and Ai Lin, who was also on the trip) before we headed out to sea on the Golden Dawn. Otherwise, he would’ve been on an extended liveaboard trip without the use of his camera, which would have been a complete bummer.

I have to admit that I’ve never had Armagnac, and I had to search the net to learn more. It’s the a gorgeous, oak-red colour (bottle on the right), and I’m saving it for the right occasion.

Then just last night, a good friend in Japan who owns the underwater camera shop Aquaforum gave me a bottle of 2003 vintage Bordeaux, Chateau Destieux, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. Of course, I’m saving this for the right occasion too.

I certainly don’t drink a lot these days, but when I do, I only like the good stuff!

Incidentally, taking this photo of the bottles was a fun exercise in experimenting with light too. I wanted a dramatic look, but I don’t have the requisite lights, backdrop and studio to shoot a proper product shot.

So I did a bit of improvising. I chose the back of a black leather seat as a backdrop, to create a moody, non-distracting background. I set the bottles on the dark wood floor near the seat. Using a Gorillapod as a tripod, I set my Canon 5D to a 5 second exposure, f11, ISO100, which pretty much eliminated most of the influence from ambient light, since I shot this at night.

After triggering the camera shutter, I held two Sony W300 compact cameras (one in each hand), and half-depressed the shutter buttons to set off the focus-assist lights. I used the warm, soft light to “paint” in light, being careful to hold the compact cameras at a sharp angle to avoid creating too much glare. Finally, I triggered one camera’s flash at a sharp angle to fill in a little bit of light in the background and lift the bottles slightly up and away from the black.

The process sounds more difficult than it actually was. The final image isn’t catalogue-quality, but it’s good enough to create the mood I wanted to achieve in order to show off these very special bottles.

Dynamic Range

If you’re trying to improve your underwater photography, one of the most useful things you can do is take photos on land. Doing so helps you get comfortable with your camera, with composition, technique, etc., and often leads to ideas for things to try underwater.

One thing I’ve been playing with recently is software to produce photographs that show a high dynamic range. Without going into too much detail, this basically means that your photograph displays a wider range of light values than normally possible.

This is accomplished by “combining” images taken at different exposure values, so you get detail in every part of the image, from the darkest to the brightest areas. This is really useful for times when there’s harsh light and shadows, and your camera would have a difficult time capturing the entire range of light values in one frame.

Here’s an example using Pasta as a model. The image on the left is an unadjusted, normally exposed image. The image on the right is an image created by running three images (bracketed at +1, 0, -1) through Photomatix software, using the tone mapping function.

pasta

The software allows me to create an image that more closely resembles what my eye saw. Our eyes are capable of seeing a much wider range of light than our CCDs are capable of capturing.

The obvious weak point is that the entire scene needs to be motionless in order to take and combine a number of images, so it’s not suitable for action photography. I don’t think I can use this underwater, but it’s fun to play around with it anyway.

You can download the software from the Photomatix site for free to try, but the resulting images will have a Photomatix watermark applied until you purchase a registered copy.

A larger version of the dynamic range adjusted photo of Pasta is here.

Updated Website

websiteaAfter much procrastination and many false starts, I’ve finally managed to update my main website!

Because I update this blog regularly, I’ve redesigned my website as a portfolio. For a start, I’ve put together five galleries, comprising recent photographs of humpback whales, marine organisms with their mouths open, reef scenes, fish and miscellaneous critters.

I had a few more in mind, but just putting these initial galleries together was quite a chore, with image sorting and editing squeezed in late at night after attending to everything else going on in my life. As a result, I’ve gone to bed cross-eyed and dizzy every night (actually, morning) for the past couple of weeks.

I did my best to keep the file sizes down, but I suspect that if your net connection isn’t very good, it might take a while to view the galleries.

Once I recover, I’ll work on additional galleries and updating the ones I’ve already put up. For now, I’m looking forward to getting a full night’s sleep for a change!