Posts Tagged Izu

Even The Sharks Are Cute

It seems like just about everything here in Izu is cute (or perhaps I’m only taking photos of the cute things?)…even the sharks.

Here’s a Japanese bullhead shark (Heterodontus japonicus), which doesn’t exactly fit the popular media stereotype (perhaps stereohype is a better term?) of sharks.

This is a juvenile, about 50cm to 60cm long. During this time of year, there are quite a few of these juveniles around, apparently quite often just sitting on the bottom like this, minding their own business.

They are bottom feeders, grabbing crustaceans, small fish, molluscs and the like…so they’re no threat to people. And up close, their scrunched up faces and little pug snouts are really quite endearing.

bullhead shark

My Dive Guides in Izu

Hard-working, keen-eyed dive guides are a big part of having a successful trip…anywhere you visit.

In Izu for the past week, I’ve had the good fortune of working with two excellent guides…Satoshi Shinohara and Issei Takeda…from Sea Front dive shop. Here’s Satoshi with a big grin on his face:

satoshi

They’ve been helping me find things, lug things around, clean things off, and also just shuttling me around from site to site.

All of our dives have been shore dives, so there’s quite a bit of preparation time involved, and there’s plenty of work to do after we get back to the dive shop too.

So as my way of saying thanks…I forced them to pose for photos. The shop is located on the way to one of the primary dive sites, so many of their friends from other dive shops slowed down to watch me taking photos of my extremely self-conscious models. Embarrassing Satoshi and Issei in front of their friends was almost as much fun as finding a lumpsucker for the first time!

Here’s a photo of both of the strapping young lads together. It took me a while to convince them to stand close enough to one another to fit them both in the frame…

dive guides

Pygmy Pals

Continuing with the cute motif that seems to be running through my Izu photos, here is a pair of whitespotted pygmy filefish (Rudarius ercodes), referred to locally as amime-hagi (アミメハギ).

pygmy filefish

When you see these fish in situ, they don’t look like much. Actually, they blend in with the seaweed and can be difficult to pick out from the background visual clutter.

Only after following one around for a few minutes did I notice the other one…not that it was hiding or anything…just that it was so well camouflaged I simply didn’t see it (though it was sitting in plain sight).

I watched as the two fish came together, flitted around one another, swam apart, came together again…and so on, their motion dictated in large part by the prevailing back-and-forth of the swell.

These filefish have signature pouty lips similar to the Japanese inflator filefish, but their lips aren’t quite the same shade of hot pink…more of a mature mauve maybe.

I noticed that as the swell peaked and reversed direction, the fish sometimes lined up nicely in the current, like a couple of weather vanes spun around by a shifting wind…producing a perfect pose for a piscine portrait.

Little Lump

Not sure what I can say about this fish…a lumpsucker (Lethotremus awae) or dango-uo (ダンゴウオ) in Japanese…except that it’s extraordinarily cute and exceedingly small. This one is just under one centimetre long.

There was a major swell, the fish was unusually active and in an awkward place, and it was dark…so this isn’t the best photo, but it’s the first one I’ve ever seen (I’ve wanted to see one for a long time), so I’m happy.

:)

lumpsucker

Secret Soba

entranceAn integral part of the pleasure of travelling in Japan is the food.

Izu, for example, is famous for fresh seafood, as fishing is one of the primary pillars of the regional economy and society. Fresh fish and other marine products are available each day, which means awesome sashimi, sushi and other traditional Japanese seafood dishes.

Perhaps less well-known outside the country is the long-standing noodle tradition in Japan.

You may have heard of soba noodles, which are made out of buckwheat, and you might have even had some.

But store-bought dried soba (or even worse, the sad soggy stuff they serve on some airlines) is to the real stuff what pre-packaged, mass-produced white bread is to piping-hot, fresh-from-the-oven French bread.

Not to be a culinary snob, but there’s just no comparison to the real thing.

Here in Izu, Shinohara-san took me to a well-kept secret…a soba place that’s tucked away in a residential neighborhood, inside a normal house. The family who lives there serves lunch five days a week…and the soba noodles are out-of-this-world delicious.

soba noodles

Even better, it’s inexpensive. For somewhere between 800 and 1000 Yen, depending on what you order, you get fresh soba plus side dishes…more than enough to satisfy even big eaters like me.

The best part though, is that the restaurant is completely off the tourist map, which means there are usually people there but it’s never swamped, the food is always terrific, and the people there remember you.

Paddling Pinecone

In keeping with the cute theme, here’s a pineconefish (Monocentris japonica), known as a matsukasa-uo (マツカサウオ) in Japanese.

These adorable paddling pinecones are here in Izu all year-round, with juveniles like this one hiding in crevices and in between rocks. Adults get pretty big, say 20cm or so, and apparently head out to open water and go deep.

Their choice of habitat, coupled with a tendency to turn tail to the camera, makes it a bit of a challenge to get a nice photo of these fish.

Another point of interest…they have light-emitting organs on each side of their face (not visible in this photo).

pineconefish

Japanese Inflator Filefish

This is a Japanese inflator filefish (Brachaluteres ulvarum), so named for its ability to inflate its body to appear bigger…presumably as a means of self-defence.

I had no idea this fish had special powers.

I just took the photo because the filefish is cute and has pink lips…presumably to match the background?

filefish

Piscine-Pondering Pioneer

During this trip to Izu, I’ve had the good fortune of getting to know one of the pioneers of recreational diving in this area…Shinohara-san…a little better.

He was one of the first few people to start a dive shop here twenty-some years ago, and he’s still as active and enthusiastic as anyone I know.

shinohara-san

In addition to taking time to answer my endless list of questions, he’s been kind enough to introduce me to lots of people, and also take me around to some great restaurants (more on that later).

As if that weren’t enough, we sat in his shop a couple of days ago poring over guide books to try to figure out some fish IDs I’ve been puzzling over…the most difficult of which was my little piscine pokemon from Lembeh.

After a bit of sleuthing and plenty of head-scratching, I think we figured it out. We decided that it’s most likely a pitted stonefish (Erosa erosa), known as a daruma-okoze (ダルマオコゼ) in Japan.

puzzled look

The grumpy expression, unique patterns on the pectoral fins and the deep indentation on the top of the fish’s head led us to this conclusion.

See how much fun it is being an international fish geek?

Pretty Pair

This is a pair of Japanese blacktail triplefins (Spingerichthys bapturus), known as hime-ginpo (ヒメギンポ) locally. The one in front is the female, the orange one to the rear the male.

Japanese blacktail triplefins

Apparently, they’re normally relatively drab, uninteresting fish. The individuals pictured here are dressed to impress. More specifically, these are their mating colours.

Scampering across the face of a vertical slab of rock, this pair appeared to have decided on one another already, and probably mated in the evening.

As a prelude to mating, the female stopped every once in a while and wiggled her tail in an enticing manner, which inevitably sent the male into a flurry of frenzied activity…darting to and fro…eventually coming full circle and ending up next to his companion again, who maintained an air of innocence throughout.

Ahem…sound familiar?

male fish

Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon

For my first couple of dives here, I hit the water at a site called Yokobama (ヨコバマ) in Futo harbour (富戸). It’s a shore dive, with entry and exit ramps clearly marked by buoys and ropes.

Though it’s been over a year and a half since I’ve used my drysuit, it only took a few minutes to sort myself out, with the most difficult task being re-acquainting myself with adjusting buoyancy and maintaining trim without the use of my BCD.

Donning a drysuit has its rewards, like having an opportunity to see what’s probably my favourite moray eel…the dragon moray (Enchelycore pardalis), or tora-utsubo (トラウツボ) as it’s known in Japanese.

dragon moray eel

I’m sure these eels live in other places, but it’s pretty much a shoe-in to see them if you dive in Izu.

Translated literally, tora-utsubo means “tiger moray eel”. Personally, I think they look more like dragons than they do tigers, although it’s interesting to note that whoever gave these eels their respective common names in English and Japanese both wanted to connote a strong, fearsome animal.

In real life though, these guys are shy…just like other morays. Much of the time, you’ll come across them hiding under rocks, in crevices and otherwise staying out of the limelight. Hence…the title of this post. I had to bend, contort and twist in all different ways to get photos yesterday, because the erstwhile dragons were so well concealed.

So the “crouching” part actually refers to what I had to do to get eel pictures…but it just so happens that they’re called tigers in Japanese too. Clever movie reference, no?

I thought so too, until I googled the binomial name to make sure I’d spelled it correctly, and discovered that another common name for this eel in English is “leopard moray eel”. Somehow, “Crouching Leopard, Hidden Dragon” didn’t have the same ring to it.

Anyway, there’s significant variation in colouration among these eels. The one below, for instance is a lot whiter overall. I’m not certain whether the variation is due to age, sex, genetics, etc., but the practical implication is that you need to look around a bit to find just the right nuance of dragon, tiger, or leopard that you prefer.

dragon moray eel

A couple of other photos of these eels that I took previously here and here.

In Izu

Woke up really early for the drive to Izu. I expected a lot of traffic, since it’s spring and Sunday, but as it turned out, there wasn’t much at all.

The weather looked a bit iffy in the morning…grey and overcast…so that may have had something to do with it. Or more likely, everyone else was still asleep.

By the time late morning rolled around, the sky had cleared, and there were more people out and about, especially in the tourist areas.

bridgeThough I tend to avoid tourist places, we stopped off at a suspension bridge in Jogasaki, known as the tsuribashi (城ヶ崎吊橋), which is a “must do” for domestic tourists who visit the eastern side of the Izu Peninsula, as well as for visitors from other countries travelling on packaged tours.

(Actually…the main reason we stopped was to use the bathroom. There’s a nice public bathroom here, but they’ve started charging 500 Yen for parking, so I’m going to have find somewhere else to make pit stops.)

It seems like everyone who visits the bridge has to pose for group photos, a process that’s pretty entertaining to watch if you’re not actually in a hurry to get to the other side of the bridge.

The reason this place is popular (other than the toilet) is the nice view from the bridge and surrounding cliffs, which overlook the Pacific Ocean.

During public holidays and other peak times, visiting this area isn’t such a great idea, unless you happen to fancy the prospect of being overwhelmed by hordes of camera-toting tourists.

Today wasn’t too bad, as there weren’t all that many people around. But after taking a few obligatory snapshots of other people taking obligatory snapshots…we wandered off the path and sat on some rocks overlooking the ocean to enjoy a few homemade onigiri and some green tea for lunch.

onigir

Summer in Spring

Spring has arrived in Japan. Actually, it arrived some time ago, but I wasn’t around, so it’s just arrived as of last week as far as I’m concerned.

In between un-packing, un-sorting, re-sorting and re-packing, I’ve managed to get a bit of time to walk around and take in the fresh, crisp spring air and to marvel at the many flowers in bloom.

I don’t really know much about flowers, but when Pasta was around, we used to go on long walks together and she’d sniff various plants, stopping occasionally to eat a few flowers here and there. She was partial to rare and valuable flowers, usually from someone’s garden, so I had to keep a close eye on her.

I miss Pasta.

In Pasta’s memory, I’ve been taking time to look closer at the flowers I come across, like this summer snowflake (Leucojum aestivum)…a plant which, despite its name, blooms in the spring, not the summer.

flower

Anyway, I’m packed and I’m heading out again…this time to the east coast of the Izu Peninsula, where I’ll be diving in 14ºC water. Actually, I’ve never dived in 14ºC water before. And who knows…I may yet come to my senses and chicken out. 14ºC is cold…like half the ºC that I’m accustomed to. Half. We’ll see how it goes.

If all goes according to plan and I actually get in the water, I’ll post updates from Izu.

A couple of previous posts from diving in Izu here and here.