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2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 6

What a week.

Since my last update, we’ve hit 40 ID-ed humpback whale calfs(!!!); re-sighted several babies we previously ID-ed; visited Toku again; been in the midst of a power-packed 8-whale heat run; come across humpbacks with split dorsal fins for the first time this season; been buzzed by a bunch of adorable baby reef sharks; swum among pilot whales; and even had a large pod of spinner dolphins accompany the boat for a good half hour or more.

The weather has finally been cooperative, so we had sunshine, clear skies and calm winds for the entire week. But…the low visibility that’s prevailed for the entire season actually worsened. It seems like there was some sort of mass spawning event around the recent full moon, which basically mucked the water up even more than it already was. Just perfect for underwater photography. Sigh.

Toluono (calf #36, male) relaxing at the surface
Toluono (calf #36, male) relaxing at the surface

Calf Count
With 40 baby humpback whales ID-ed and counting, we are totally off the chart. I still have nearly two weeks left here, so I’m almost certain the total count will increase.

But by this point in the season, the number of newborns should begin to diminish. In a “normal” season (to the extent such a concept exists), I’d expect that we’d be approaching the tail-end of the birth bell curve, and that from this point forward, the balance of our calf encounters might begin to shift to a greater number of re-sightings, as opposed to new IDs.

This season, however, has proven to be mind-boggling in many respects, so it’s entirely possible that the birth bell curve stretches out for a while more.

In an average season, I’d expect the earliest sightings of newborn humpbacks to occur some time in July, with the latest being in October. This season, the earliest sightings were in late June, i.e., early.

It will be interesting to see if new calf sightings tail off sooner than expected, or if there is no “forward shift”, so to speak, of baby humpback births.

We ended the week with 40 ID-ed humpback whale calfs. (black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010). Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.
We ended the week with 40 ID-ed humpback whale calfs.
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010).
Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.

Also this week, I had my first “calm” encounters with mother/ calf pairs. For most of the season, females with babies have been “neutral” to “skittish”, meaning there have been some, but relatively few, encounters during which mommy humpbacks remained stationary and let their babies swim and play at the surface.

I finally had two such encounters this past week, although only one of the two was truly relaxed…little baby girl Tolunima (calf #35) and her mom.

In the other encounter…with Toluono (calf #36, male)…cow and calf were swimming, but when we entered the water for the first time, the mother skidded to a complete stop and rested at shallow depth, letting the calf explore its surroundings and us…before she arose from her afternoon snooze and continued on her high-pace trek southward.

Finally, we had three re-sightings this week:

- Seventh and eighth sightings of Tahafa (calf #14, male), more about this calf below;
- Second encounter with Tolutaha (calf #31, female);
- Second encounter with Tolufa (calf #34, male).

Tolunima (calf #35, female). This is the first mother/ calf pair I encountered this season that was stationary while calf played above.
Tolunima (calf #35, female). This is the first mother/ calf pair I encountered
this season that was stationary while calf played above.

The Little Calf That Could
The star baby of the season has turned out to be Tahafa, the 14th calf we ID-ed. Since my first encounter on 22 August, we’ve come across this little boy whale eight times:

1. 22 August: First encounter, a day after hearing reports of an injured calf, reportedly attacked by a large tiger shark. As soon as I saw the calf, I realised that the stories of a large shark were inaccurate. There was no way the wounds were caused by a tiger or similar animal. The wounds were small, distributed all over the calf’s body, and for the most part shallow. Mother and baby were not particularly friendly, but the baby looked completely healthy.

2. 1 September: Shawn came across this mom and calf, and reported that they were calm and relaxed, a major change since our first sighting, which was a cause for anxiety. There was an escort present. He noted: “Baby seemed feeble and might require extra care. Lacking the spring/ charisma of most calfs. Seemed like the mom had to nose the baby up at the surface. Seemed like the escort understood this and was super respectful of the mom and calf. Sitting below until they came up. Initially, didn’t even know the escort was there.”

3. 2 September: Much to our relief, the baby looked healthy this time, and was quite playful, breaching on several occasions. Still with escort.

4. 3 September: Baby was again playful. Lots of remoras on the baby. Still with escort.

5. 7 September: Mom, baby, escort travelling. Escort breached and tail-slapped. Baby flopped and twirled at surface.

6. 9 September: Still with escort. Baby looking good.

7. 14 September: Found Tahafa with mom and same escort at Toku. Escort fought off multiple male challengers, up to five at a time. Mom and baby relaxed, both very friendly to swimmers. Baby extremely playful and inquisitive. Finally able to determine that Tahafa is male.

At one point in this extended encounter, one of the male whales was singing while swimming. I believe it was the escort, as it was directly beneath me in shallow water, and the sound literally “boomed” through me as I swam. This is not the first time I’ve been in the water when one of several male whales has been singing in an active competitive situation centering upon a mother/ calf pair. It’s not even the first time this season. I’m sure there is something to this. Perhaps it’s a dominance behaviour, intended as a warning to the primary escort’s would-be challengers?

8. 16 September: Sighted Tahafa again at Toku. This time, the escort was gone. We did not attempt to get into the water. Decided to leave mom/ baby alone.

Injured calf Tahafa together with his mother. The baby's wounds have healed nicely.
Injured calf Tahafa together with his mother. The baby’s wounds have healed nicely.

So over a 26-day period, we’ve documented this injured baby eight times, witnessing the baby’s recovery from wounds due to some sort of traumatic encounter. We’ll probably never know exactly what happened, but one thing is for sure…there was no tiger shark involved.

My preferred guess is an assault by a group of marine mammals (such as pilot whales). Another possible explanation is a run-in with some sort of motorised craft.

In any event, the baby has fully recovered, and the wounds are for the most part healed. In our most recent encounters, Tahafa was unmistakably healthy, energetic and inquisitive…just like a baby whale should be. Hurray!

If we do come across Tahafa again in future seasons, it’ll be easy to ID him from the wounds, especially the missing anterior portion of his dorsal fin.

Escort Enigma
Watching Tahafa’s healing/ recovery process has been fascinating and rewarding, but there’s more to this story…

To start, Tahafa is the first calf that I’ve documented in both Vava’u and Toku, which are about 40km apart. Mom + injured baby (together with escort) swam many kilometres through open ocean, in areas I know are frequented by pack hunters like pilot whales.

This underscores my observation over previous seasons that Vava’u does not seem to be a place where whales stay with their babies.

They may give birth here and/ or visit for some duration. They may even return during a given season, but for the most part, Vava’u is a way station for them, not a permanent home for the season.

Recall also that both the mother and the calf seemed to become relatively calm and relaxed after the escort joined them, sometime between 22 August and 1 September. It’s certainly not the first example I’ve seen of an escort having a soothing effect on mom and baby, but it’s notable in this instance because of the extended period of association.

This is Toluhiva (calf #39, female). Here, the calf is nuzzling the escort, demonstrating that escort whales can be on good terms with babies
This is Toluhiva (calf #39, female). Here, the calf is nuzzling the escort,
demonstrating that escort whales can be on good terms with babies

Specifically, the same escort accompanied this mom and calf from at least 1 September to 14 September, over two weeks. Admittedly, I haven’t been meticulous about recording observations pertaining to escort behaviour prior to this season, but this one example illustrates that escorts can and do stay with mother/ calf pairs for extended periods of time.

At this juncture, I have no idea if this particular escort’s behaviour represents the norm here, or if this is an outlying case. But documenting this extended association has given me cause to wonder why escorts even bother accompanying females that already have babies.

The desire to mate would be a logical assumption, one that I’ve taken for granted to date.

But here’s the thing…if moms that show up in Vava’u do regularly mate with escorts (and many moms here seem to be accompanied by escorts), does that imply that those moms have babies in consecutive years?

Consider this possibility for a moment: If a mom mates while she still has a newborn, that would mean that she’d be pregnant while raising that newborn, and would essentially have to face the daunting task of raising a baby while incubating a new baby over the same 12-month period or so.

Then she’d have to return from the south next winter with yearling in tow, part ways with her baby from this season, and then have the next baby soon thereafter…possibly having to go through the whole ordeal again if she’s approached by yet another eager-beaver suitor(s).

I have previously collected data here (Mother of Chibi-chan 200816 same as mother of Floppy 200929; Mother of Scratches 200801 same as mother of Stitches 200904) to suggest that this scenario might be possible (and have also heard from friends in both Hawaii and Japan that there are similar examples there), but you know…it seems like a major undertaking for a female humpback, something that any sane female just wouldn’t want to do…and might not survive if she did.

So even though such behaviour appears to be possible, it seems a stretch to assume that it would be the standard scenario. The energy requirements to feed and raise a newborn + incubate another calf at the same time would be humongous.

Here is an excerpt from a paper that Karen was kind enough to forward to me that addresses this specific issue:

Escorts to mother/ calf pairs on the breeding grounds are invariably male (Glockner-Ferrari & Ferrari, 1985; Medrano et al., 1994), and it has been suggested by Darling, Gibson & Silber (1983) that escorts associate with lactating females in the hope of mating them if they come into post-partum oestrus. However, the high cost of lactation (Lockyer, 1987) makes it likely that a female who is simultaneously pregnant and lactating will be in poorer body condition during the year in which she is nursing the subsequent calf. The percentage of females that we have observed (Clapham & Mayo, 1990) with consecutive-year calves in the Gulf of Maine (a feeding area) was significantly lower than that recorded by Glockner-Ferrari & Ferrari (1985) from the Hawaiian breeding grounds. If this is not entirely due to a bias in sampling towards mothers off Hawaii, the difference may at least partly reflect higher mortality among second calves (those born after an interval of 1 year) prior to arrival in high latitudes. If this is indeed the case, then escorting a mother/ calf pair on the breeding grounds may be a strategy that is inferior to courting or competing for a female who is not currently incurring the expense of lactation.

- Clapham, Phillip J. (1996) The social and reproductive biology of Humpback Whales: an ecological perspective, Mammal Review, 26, 38

This is the escort whale that accompanied Tahafa (calf #14) for at least two weeks
This is the escort whale that accompanied Tahafa (calf #14) for at least two weeks

To translate…the paper suggests that for a male humpback to mate with a cow that already has a calf might result in lower probability of his offspring’s survival, and thus not be a wise strategy. This intuitively makes sense.

But if this isn’t the normal situation, then why are so many mother/ calf pairs in Vava’u accompanied by escorts?

So far this season, 20 out of 40 (50%) females with babies we’ve ID-ed have been accompanied by at least one escort. In addition, 11 out of 27 (41%) mother/ calf pair sightings for which we have not established in ID have also involved at least one escort.

One possibility is that the presence of an escort somehow makes it easier for us to approach and ID mother/ calf pairs. I don’t ascribe a high probability to this, however, as the presence of an escort often makes it more difficult to approach females with babies, as I outlined in an earlier post.

Plus, even though I haven’t been tracking escorts in an organised manner during previous seasons, I know from experience that the association of escorts with a significant ratio of females with babies here has always been the case, at least for as long as I’ve been visiting Vava’u.

Of interest, the same paper, on page 40, suggests that the frequency with which males choose to associate with mother/ calf pairs may vary from location to location:

It is curious that, while lactating females are often at the centre of competitive groups in Hawaiian waters (Baker & Herman, 1984b; Glockner-Ferrari & Ferrari, 1990), their occurrence in such groups in the West Indies is far less frequent (Clapham et al., 1992). The absence of calves from most competitive groups in the latter region may reflect a preference by males for females who are not lactating (and are therefore in superior condition). However, why such a phenomenon should apparently not also be observed elsewhere is difficult to understand unless the frequency of post-partum oestrus differs between populations.

Taking this information at face value, it seems like the tendency of males to associate with mother/ calf pairs here resembles the behavioural patterns of humpback populations that visit Hawaii more than of those that frequent the West Indies.

Tahafa's long-term escort. Scraped up dorsal fin...evidence of battle
Tahafa’s long-term escort. Scraped up dorsal fin…evidence of battle

A Few More Questions, Some Speculation
As I pondered the details of our multiple encounters with Tahafa, mom and escort, a few more issues came to mind.

Why are some escorts (like Tahafa’s) seemingly so loyal (spending at least 14 days by Tahafa’s and mother’s side, including crossing 40km of open ocean and doing battle with five or more aggressive males at a time on multiple occasions) and prepared to undertake bodily risk? (In one particularly spectacular conflict, I watched the primary escort ram nose-first into the belly of another male.)

Another head-scratcher…why, after spending so long with Tahafa and mom, did the escort suddenly disappear by 16 September, less than 48 hours after I had watched the escort engage in serious combat seemingly for the purpose of defending his access to Tahafa’s mom?

And one final twist…when we spotted Tahafa and mom on 16 September, there were dozens of hormone-raged males in the immediate vicinity (like right next to Tahafa and mom), including several that were in hot pursuit of other mother/ calf pairs, and at least seven that were body-slamming one another over bragging rights to what appeared to be a single female.

The question that pops to mind is…if Tahafa’s mom merited so much attention on 14 September (“territorial” aggression by the primary escort + challenges by many other males), then why, less than 48 hours later, was Tahafa’s mom essentially ignored by all the horny males in the area?

I certainly don’t have any definitive answers to these cetacean conundrums, but I’ve pieced together what might be a plausible narrative, one that I can maybe use as an initial framework for developing a better understanding of mother, calf, escort interactions here in the future. It’s pure speculation, trying to fit all the pieces together, but here goes:

What if female humpbacks (whether they are with calf or not) are able to advertise their reproductive status? So let’s say some females with babies go into oestrus while they’re around Vava’u, and they somehow communicate their reproductive readiness to the males in the area (pheromones? audio signals?).

Healthy, happy Tahafa (calf #14) with mom, primary escort visible in background
Healthy, happy Tahafa (calf #14) with mom,
primary escort visible in background

Let’s say this takes place some time before she’s actually ready to mate, perhaps up to two weeks.

If Tahafa’s mom sent out just such a signal, and the escort (along with other males) picked up on it back in late August, then there may have been a contest for her acceptance, resulting in the presence of a primary escort with Tahafa’s mom by 1 September (the first time we noted the presence of the primary escort).

From that period forward, the primary may have fended off dozens of challengers, as the female continued to advertise her fertile status.

In this specific example, Tahafa’s mom (and Tahafa for that matter) seemed pleased/ comfortable with the primary escort, so she may not have actively sought to “accept” a different escort, or perhaps she did, but always ended up choosing to associate with the primary escort. In either case, the same primary escort prevailed.

The challenges may have culminated in the all-out assault of multiple males that we witnessed on 14 September, when the primary escort was challenged from left, right, above, below…basically everywhere…by two, three, sometimes five whales at a time, and not always the same whales, meaning the total number of challengers exceeded five.

The reason for the culmination may have been that the time for Tahafa’s mom to mate was near (full moon was two days earlier, on 12 September), and the challengers sensed an opportunity to usurp the primary escort. They could invest a little bit of time and possibly gain the right to mate. If they failed, they wouldn’t have invested too much time, and could quickly move on to something else.

By 16 September, mating was finished. Perhaps the primary escort successfully defended against all challengers and mated.

After that, the primary escort…being male, saw no reason to stick around and left. Other males, sensing no reason to court Tahafa’s mom, diverted their attention to the other receptive females in the area (several with babies, one without).

Tahafa and mom were left in peace…for the first time in several weeks…explaining why the pair were left alone even as wild heat runs and competitive groups coalesced all around them.

Whatever the case, Tahafa, his mom, and the primary escort that accompanied the pair have given me a reason to pay more attention to escorts in future seasons.

If you happen to have any insight into how plausible or not the speculative scenario above might be, please let me know!

Surrounded by humpback whales in a massive, high-energy heat run
Surrounded by humpback whales in a massive, high-energy heat run

Toku Revolutions
Besides the encounters with Tahafa described above, we also had a massive 8-whale heat run at Toku, one that literally took us in circles…around and around and around…as the whales snorted, slapped, smacked, lunged, and dived at high speed.

I’ve seen a lot of heat runs over the years, but this one ranked in the top five or so in terms of energy levels. My friends from the People’s Republic of China who were with me this week couldn’t get enough. Lots of hoots, howls and woohoos! all around.

I also photographed two whales with split dorsal fins there. This is such an unusual trait that I’ve been keeping track of humpbacks I see with dorsals like this, figuring that it’ll be relatively easy to recognise them in the future.

I hadn’t seen any all season (in contrast to five or so I photographed in 2010). Then on 16 September, I photographed two such whales, at the same place, at nearly at the same time. One was the mother of Fanoa (calf #40), and the second was one of the males involved in the big heat run.

One of the whales in the heat run had a split dorsal fin, only the second I've seen this season
One of the whales in the heat run had a split dorsal fin

And just to round out the week, I had a brief visit with a handful of cute baby reef sharks that came to check us out:

One of several baby reef sharks that buzzed us
One of several baby reef sharks that buzzed us

And then some pilot whales, with a wee little one among them:

Pilot whales in the blue
Pilot whales in the blue

In case you couldn’t tell, I’m running out of steam and can’t write much more.

My friends from China leave tomorrow, following which, I have several groups arriving from Japan…so I need to catch up on some sleep and recover from the week’s activities.

It’s overcast with a bit of rain today, but I certainly hope the great weather we had last week comes back.

Friends from China, overjoyed with their whale encounters
Friends from China, overjoyed with their whale encounters

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 5

The past week has been characterised by an oxymoron: frustrating awesomeness (I know, “awesomeness” isn’t a word, but it gets the point across).

First, the frustration. We started the week with a brief, but powerful windstorm at around 04:00 on Sunday night that literally blew stuff off our balconies and dislodged coconuts from their high perches. The maelstrom sounded like a typhoon, and I was concerned that we wouldn’t be able to go out.

By daylight though, things looked much better…relatively flat seas with little wind. Much relieved, we headed out in the morning, and even managed to find a mom/ calf pair (#29 of the season). But within minutes, the skies turned to grey, while the winds shifted direction and picked up to 20+ knots. Four+ metres swells kicked in just for our added pleasure.

Aiyah.

The next day, we found a demonic mother/ calf pair (Unknown #17) early in the morning. The pair popped up for a quick breath, dived down, swam for 100-150m in a random direction, then repeated this cycle. They led us on a wild-whale-chase, until we gave up and moved on, unable to establish an ID. A couple of other boats also wasted invested time in this pair, but no one managed to get a good look.

After that, we found a singer. Just as I got everyone into the water, it stopped singing and left. How rude.

Then, we found another mother/ calf pair at the bottom end of Hunga channel, which was only marginally more cooperative than the demonic duo. I managed to get a reasonably good look, but no one else did, as the pair moved too quickly. It turned out to be whales I knew already but haven’t assigned an official ID to yet, Unknown calf #10 and mom.

And finally…Thursday was just a wipe-out day. Total, utter nothingness…unless you happen to be fond of clouds, rain and bad visibility.

Courting humpback whales: the white one in front is the male, the whale spyhopping in the background is the female.
Courting humpback whales: the white one in front is the male,
the whale spyhopping in the background is the female.

But (and this is a big but), these periods of despair were more than offset by some amazing encounters, including:

(a) The best calf interaction I’ve had the entire season, with a baby humpback that turned out to be #32, Toluua. This ID broke our record of 31 pairs ID-ed in 2009, and…to make this encounter even more rewarding and poetic, the mother was the same female as the mom of calf #13 in 2009, Luna. I recognised the adult on sight, and of greater significance, I knew her “personality” (more about this below);

(b) A power-packed, testosterone-laden 8-whale heat run (woohoo!);

(c) Two pairs of courting male/ female humpback whales (power, grace and beauty);

(d) Re-sightings of several mother/ calf pairs previously ID-ed this season;

(e) A bunch of other stuff: two hammerhead sharks at the surface (one small, one large), two sea snakes (one of which had a little fish swimming with it, the other of which had Dan swimming after it…Dan’s comment “Snakes feel good; wet snakes feel better.”); a female crab swimming in mid-water carrying a large clutch of nearly ripe eggs that we initially mistook for a turtle; one actual sea turtle that had the good sense to dive before we got into the water; birds dive-bombing and snagging flying fish; pilot whales (one of my boats with Japanese friends on it); and a lot of breaching and other humpback whale surface activity.

It’s a New Record!
We actually ended this week with 34 humpback whale mother/ calf pairs ID-ed, but the one that really mattered for me was Toluua (#32) a little female calf (actually, she was quite big, indicating that she was born relatively early in the season).

Back in August (see Part 2), I set a goal of identifying at least 32 mother/ calf pairs this season. I had set out a case for a possible banner baby boom this season at the end of the 2010 season, and I saw evidence early on that the pace of calf sightings was consistent with a record-breaking tempo.

Humpback whale calf count in Tonga 2011
We’ve broken the humpback whale calf count record!
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010)
Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.

On Friday, 9 September, I was able to identify #32! (subject, of course, to going through all the photos and data more carefully after I get back home).

Reaching this benchmark was satisfying enough, but the actual encounter made the moment even more fulfilling.

First, I recognised the mother on sight. She was the mother of Luna, calf #13 in 2009, and is easily identifiable by her unique dorsal fin…sort of a stubby shape with white rune-like markings on it. I recall meeting this female for the first time in 2009, when I remarked: “If I ever see this one again, I’ll know it right away”, and sure enough, when I saw her dorsal fin on Friday, there was no mistake.

Even better…I remembered that she was very approachable. During several encounters two years ago, this female never swam away, never veered, never gave any indication she was troubled by the presence of boat or people.

With this in mind, I swam right to her when I got into the water, and sure enough, she swam directly toward me without hesitation. That left no doubt in my mind that it was the same whale.

I’m sure many biologists would frown upon ascribing a specific “personality” to a non-human animal, but in the two cases where I’ve immediately recognised an adult female humpback whale in different seasons, their dispositions have been the same (beside the mother of Luna/ 200913 and Toluua/ 201132, also the mother of Scratches/ 200801 and Stitches/ 200904).

To put it more bluntly, I was reasonably confident that Toluua’s mom would be comfortable with me right away, because she was comfortable in each encounter two seasons ago. Really comfortable.

Even more interesting, both of her babies, Luna and Toluua (both little girls), were also friendly to people, each demonstrating keen interest in swimmers, and approaching proactively.

Humpback whale calf Toluua playing, with mom and escort below
Humpback whale calf Toluua playing, with mom and escort below

Here’s the thing…for most visitors to Tonga, who may, if they’re lucky, only meet a few mother/ calf pairs while they’re here, it’s impossible to notice possible traits like consistent personality of a single whale.

Say someone travels here for a couple of weeks and comes across 10 mother/ calf pairs. Two seem friendly, five seem neutral and three speed away at the mere suggestion of humans.

It’s easy in such a scenario to make observations such as: “That boat harassed those whales, and that’s why they sped away.”, or “We knew exactly what we were doing, and that’s why we were more successful than you.”, etc.

I’ve heard definitive statements of this nature asserted by tourists, boat operators, NGO representatives, and researchers many, many times over the years, and I’m certainly not immune from having similar sentiments at times.

But…what I’ve come to believe after spending so much time in the water with these animals here, perhaps more than any other person ever has, is that individual whales have unique dispositions/ temperaments (with the caveat that immediate circumstances, such as the presence of an unwanted escort, can of course affect behaviour).

So Luna’s/ Toluua’s mom behaved in the same manner in 2009 and 2011, just as Stitches’/ Scratches’ mom behaved in the same manner in 2008 and 2009.

And while we humans most probably can and do affect the whales’ behaviour, individual whale “personality” is an important factor, one that cannot be dismissed as nonexistent, irrelevant, or imaginary.

Bottom line…just because people haven’t spent enough time getting to know humpback whales in their element doesn’t mean we are justified in ignoring their unique personalities, or in drawing conclusions/ making definitive statements/ creating policy based primarily upon human standards, prejudices and most of all…ignorance.

It’s difficult for me to prove beyond doubt that this observation would hold true for the population at large, but after having spent hundreds of hours observing humpback whales in the water here, it’s a view that I am confident about articulating and defending, especially now that I have two indisputable, multi-year examples.

Anyway, Toluua and mom played with us for a long time, with mom stopping on occasion to rest while Toluua frolicked with us less-talented swimmers. At one point, an escort joined the pair (making huge gulping motions down deep as he approached), but fortunately, the escort seemed as comfortable with us as mother and calf were.

What a wonderful way to reach my goal for this season.

Toluua (calf #32). Toluua's mom is also the mother of Luna, calf #13 from 2009.
Toluua (calf #32). Toluua’s mom is also the mother of Luna, calf #13 from 2009.

More Baby Talk
It’s terrific seeing so many baby whales. It’s vindication in many respects, but most of all, for the many “discussions” we had years ago with people here who felt there were only a handful of juveniles born/ raised around Vava’u each season.

Establishing a methodical, documented calf count has provided an objective measure, and has shown that our initial gut feel that there were dozens of babies in many seasons seems to be correct.

There is certainly more that we don’t know about these whales than we do, but every little bit of fact-based information helps.

Besides our new calf IDs this week, we also had several re-sightings:

(a) Second sighting of Unknown #10, originally spotted on 1 September, this sighting on 6 September, an interval of 5 days. I have some photos of this underwater, as well as topside images of the mom’s and calf’s dorsal. The underwater images aren’t great, so I’m not prepared to assign this one an ID yet, but at the end of the season, if nothing else matches, this is a strong candidate for an additional ID;

(b) Sixth sighting of Tahafa #14 (the injured calf), meaning this calf has been here for at least 17 days, spanning 23 August to 9 September. Of interest, mom and baby have been accompanied by the same escort since at least 1 September. I don’t recall documenting such a long female/ escort relationship before. Good news…the injured calf looks healthy, strong and playful…hurray!

Injured humpback whale calf Tahafa (calf #14)
Sixth sighting of injured calf Tahafa (calf #14)

(c) Second sighting of Tolunoa #30. This mother/ calf were first photographed on 4 August by a guest at Mounu (before I arrived in Tonga). I have copies of some of the photos taken at that time. We photographed the same mother/ calf pair on 5 September, an interval of 32 days. The calf is a female.

(d) Fourth sighting of Tolu #3, a little boy. We initially ID-ed this mother/ calf pair on 18 August. This sighting was on 9 September…an interval of 22 days. Of note, there was no escort with mom and baby this time. I discussed the effect of an escort upon Tolu’s mom in Part 2, under the “Sex Change” sub-section.

It’s great having so many calf IDs and re-sightings this year…but wow, it’s so much(!!!) work cataloguing all the information and keeping it straight.

More Awesomeness: Heat Run
It’s been a while since I’ve seen a heat run this season. The fact that it’s been quite windy for a while may have something to do with this, as the humpbacks have a tendency to take their heat runs somewhat offshore where we can’t go if the conditions are too rough.

On Friday (same day that we ID-ed Toluua #32), we came across a massive 8-whale heat run. That’s over 300 tonnes of animal charging through the water at high speed, snorting, grunting and splashing the entire time!

The whales were travelling at high speed and diving a lot, so we only managed a few looks in the water. I almost got all eight whales into one frame:

Heat run with eight whales. Travelling fast and diving deep.
Heat run with eight whales. Travelling fast and diving deep.

I’m a heat-run addict, so every single heat run I see is as exciting as my first. Maybe I’m affected by the excess of humpback hormones in the water?!

Yet More Awesomeness: Couples Week
One of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring sights on the planet is the courtship of two humpback whales.

Over the years, I’ve been fortunate enough to witness the interaction of perhaps ten such pairs or so, and all I can say is that the whales’ combined grace, power and elegance defies description. Imagine the most intricate and refined of ballets, choreographed and performed by 40-tonne animals in the water, with every move executed to pinpoint precision.

On Tuesday (after our frustrations with the demonic duo mother/ calf, the non-singer singer, and Unknown calf #10), we came across a courting pair, just as we were about to throw in the towel and call it a day.

At a distance, we saw five whales together, so it’s quite possible that there were other whales with the pair before we reached them. But by the time we arrived on the scene, only the two were left, and from the moment we went into the water, they were as friendly and inquisitive as can be.

When the circumstances are right, courting pairs can often take an extraordinary interest in people, and even go so far as to “incorporate” swimmers into their elegant love-inspired rituals. I’ve swum on numerous occasions among the sinuous motions of two lovestruck whales, and have, after much experience, grown accustomed to their proactive swim-bys…when the whales turn around and head straight for me…an intimidating sight, but behaviour that I now know is not aggressive, but is intended to encourage me to keep up with them, even as I pant and heave for every breath.

We were in open water, far outside the main Hunga area, so the whales could have easily ditched us. Instead, they circled around and around, coming back every time we couldn’t keep up…behaviour typical of a friendly courting pair.

We swam non-stop for nearly an hour, so everyone spent lots of quality time with the amorous whales. It’s really amazing how long, hard and far people can swim when they’re making eye contact with humpbacks!

I consider myself fortunate if I come across one amicable courting pair a season, but on Saturday, we saw another, at Toku.

Courting pair (dark one female, white belly male) that was buzzed constantly by two or three single males at Toku Island.
Courting pair (dark one female, white belly male) that was buzzed constantly
by two or three single males at Toku Island.

Toku Reloaded
Sean, Ray, Dan, Kozy and Nana started their adventure here with a trip to Toku, and we ended with a visit to Toku as well, on the final day of their stay in Vava’u.

Travelling the 40km or so to this small island requires relatively benign wind and ocean conditions, so it’s not an excursion that can be undertaken often. In fact, I had only visited once prior to this season. For one group to manage two visits to Toku in one trip is quite a stroke of luck!

Even better, it rained all day in Vava’u, while we had brilliant sunshine while we were at Toku.

It seemed like there were fewer whales overall around Toku this time, but we came upon a courting pair right away.

As is often the case with such pairs, the female demonstrated significant interest in us. The encounter wasn’t as rewarding as the previous pair, however, as two males (three at times), continually pursued this two lovebirds (lovewhales?), perhaps challenging the male.

As a result, the couple couldn’t focus on their courtship rituals and swam continually. The water was full of high-pitched squeaks, squeals and other calls, perhaps banter from the would-be challengers taunting the male in the pair. (Note: Humpback whales can be very talkative. Their well-known songs are just a small part of their vocal repertoire.)

We did manage to see the pair and the challengers up-close a few times though.

Toward the end of our final day at Toku, we came across a mother and calf (Tolutolu #33), accompanied first by two escorts, then three, then back to two, and finally one. While the female was swarmed by agitated males, she wasn’t terribly receptive to people in the water (go figure).

But when only one male was left, she relaxed, which allowed me to get a few photos for ID purposes.

Again, we witnessed first-hand the effect that escorts can have on female whale behaviour. It should perhaps come as no surprise that a mob of rowdy boys can make a respectable girl nervous, but it’s educational and rewarding nonetheless to see this up close.

Tolutolu (calf #33 of the 2011 season) with mom
Tolutolu (calf #33 of the 2011 season) with mom

Me At Work (Sort of)

We had a slow morning a couple of days ago, so when we came across an unidentified red-brown shape paddling its way across the ocean, I jumped in to take a look.

It turned out to be a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs.

Tony Wu photographing female crab with eggs
This is me honing my mid-ocean crustacean photography skills…

Crabs aren’t known for being genial, but this one was particularly pugnacious, perhaps because of the precious cargo she was transporting.

I tried being friendly, but she wouldn’t have any of it; she just scowled, simmered, and snapped. Sigh.

Within short order, the crab descended into the abyss…all the while wielding her pincers with vim and vigour…leaving no doubt whatsoever about her considerable disdain for oversized, appendage-challenged individuals like me.

...and this was my belligerent subject, a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs
…and this was my belligerent subject, a female crab carrying a clutch of eggs

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 4

I was land-bound for much of the past week (only went out on the water on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday), but it’s certainly been an eventful few days.

First, the weather has been fickle. We had mostly sunny days with strong winds until Serene, May, Trevor, Minako, Geri and Maria left. Then “poof!”, the winds disappeared and seas flattened, but cloud cover moved in with scattered showers.

It’s definitely better to have low winds with clouds than blistering winds with sun, but all things considered, I’d really appreciate a period of low winds and sunshine at the same time. I’ve filled in the appropriate forms in triplicate and filed them with the relevant sun, sky, sea and wind bureaucracies…so we’ll see what the upcoming week brings.

We’re up to 28 ID-ed calfs now (woohoo!), and we’ve also had some repeat sightings of a couple of babies we catalogued earlier.

In addition, I received a report from my friend Wendy who was in Ha’apai (separate island group in Tonga) aboard the Nai’a about a potential sighting of a half-tailed female whale we’ve previously named Konga Hiku.

It would be exciting enough to see Konga Hiku back in Tongan waters, but Wendy says the whale in question has a calf with her, so that would make a confirmed re-sighting all the more meaningful. Wendy wasn’t able to take a photo, but she’s put out an APB via Nai’a to ask passengers for the rest of the season to get a photo if possible. Keeping fingers crossed!

Baby, Baby, Baby
As I mentioned above, we’re at 28 babies right now. That’s pretty amazing.

To put this into some perspective: Our all-time high to date was 31 babies in 2009.

During that year, I was in Tonga from 8 August to 11 September. We counted 26 babies by the time I left. Friends and other visitors to Vava’u then kindly contributed five additional IDs, making a total count of 31.

This season, I also arrived on 8 August, the same date as I did in 2009. Our count of 28 baby humpbacks so far is through yesterday, 4 September…which means we’ve already exceeded our 2009 final tally of 26 by two babies…with several days to spare.

At this pace, I’m almost entirely certain that we’ll pass 31 within this week, and I’m really hoping for more than 40 by the time I leave at the end of September.

Still on track for a record number of humpback whale babies (black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010). Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.
Still on track for a record number of humpback whale babies
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010).
Extracted from my 2010 humpback calf summary.

Besides confirming several new calf IDs, we’ve also had some repeat-sightings this week:

- 31 August: Hiva, calf #9, originally ID-ed on 19 August (13-day interval)
- 01, 02, and 03 September: Tahafa, calf #14 (the injured calf), originally ID-ed on 23 August (10- to 12-day interval)

Less-than-ideal visibility (even far offshore) has continued to make taking underwater photos difficult, and the “neutral” whale behaviour I alluded to in previous updates has for the most part continued.

We still haven’t had any Ikumi-esque encounters…meaning extended quality time with a chilled-out mom and an engaged baby. I know that there have been some good encounters, but they’ve been few and far between, especially considering the number of whales around.

One possible contributor to this may be the number of mom/ calf pairs that have been accompanied by escorts, especially in recent days. In most cases, the escorts seem to have been “pushing” the female whales and their babies along, reflected in the whales’ non-stop swimming and erratic twists and turns. (Refer to the Two Timer discussion in Part 3).

It’s important to note that this type of behaviour is taking place with or without boats nearby. We’ve watched mom/ calf/ escorts from afar…looking on as the whales zigged, zagged, sped up, slowed down…basically did everything but stop and sit still.

Uaono (calf #26) with mom. Low viz, cloudy skies and nonstop whales makes ID-ing difficult
Uaono (calf #26) with mom. Low viz, cloudy skies
and nonstop whales makes ID-ing difficult

With Uaono (calf #26) for instance, we watched as the mom/ calf/ escort trio pinballed haphazardly around the area between Tungasika and White Patch. At one point, we saw mom and baby head one way, and escort head another. Right after I pointed and remarked: “Hey, what’s going on?”, the escort breached several times, while cow and calf swam away.

One of the things Ongo, my whale mentor in Vava’u, used to say to me was: “When a female rejects an escort, the males often breach in frustration.” I was sceptical when he first shared this observation with me many years ago, but I’ve seen this scenario play out often enough now that I’m certain he was correct.

Unfortunately though, Uaono and mom didn’t appear to take comfort in the escort’s disappearance. They slowed down for a bit, then took off at top speed toward White Patch and straight out to sea, making it impossible to get a good look in the water.

Talking Toku
Recent arrivals Dan, Kozy, Sean, Nana and Ray had their first day on the water on Friday.

It was cloudy, but the winds were down, so we decided to head to Toku, a small island located about 40km from Vava’u. I had only been there once before (last year) and had a kick-@** time, so I decided it was worth taking the group there, even if they still hadn’t had the opportunity to learn the ropes.

The calculated risk paid off.

Breaching humpback whale that put on quite a show
Breaching humpback whale that put on quite a show

Before reaching the island, we saw blows all over the place. We started to follow a pair of whales, hoping for an in-water encounter right away. As luck would have it, we weren’t able to see them underwater, but that was because the larger of the two whales put on a spectacular, non-stop breaching show for us.

I’m not sure how long the breach-bonanza lasted, but we followed for quite a while, perhaps an hour or more. The pertinent whale repeatedly took two to three breaths, dived, and fifteen seconds or so later…breach!!! Everyone took photos. Nana even posted iPhone snaps. How many people can boast of taking close-up humpback whale breaching photos on an iPhone?

After that, we spent the rest of the day with two mother/ calf/ escort trios, both in pretty much the same area. Though both groups of whales moved non-stop (despite my desperate pleas of: “Cut me some slack guys!”), we managed a number of drops with Uatolu (calf #23, a little baby girl) in shallow water.

If conditions permit, we’ll definitely head for Toku again in the coming days.

Little baby Uatolu (calf #23, female) going for a stroll with her mom
Little baby Uatolu (calf #23, female) going for a stroll with her mom

Update: Injured Calf
Below is a close-up photo of the Tahafa (calf #14), the injured baby that I discussed in last week’s update.

Shawn and John observed this baby on 01 September (10 days after we first ID-ed the baby), and noted that the juvenile seemed lethargic and lacked energy/ spunk. This, of course, had us worried.

Over the next two days, however, Emiko and Takaji had two additional encounters, during which time the baby breached and played a lot, appearing for all practical purposes to be as healthy as any other little whale…much to our collective relief.

The precise cause of the baby’s injuries is still a topic of discussion/ debate here. I continue to believe that the balance of probability lies with an attack by a group of marine mammals, but another theory put forth by credible/ experienced people here suggests a boat collision as a possible cause.

While we may never know the actual cause with complete certainty, we certainly all hope that this baby thrives and returns in the future. We’ll most likely be able to recognise this whale by the missing anterior portion of its dorsal fin.

Top-down view of Tahafa's (calf #14) injuries
Top-down view of Tahafa’s (calf #14) injuries

White Pecs
Well…we’re up to eight whales with all-white or nearly all-white pectoral fins now.

That’s fascinating enough, given the relative paucity of white-handed whales here in most seasons, but even more exciting…the latest white pec is a calf I ID-ed yesterday, Uafitu (calf #27). This is the first time I’ve ever seen a calf here with all-white pectoral fins.

We came across this calf entirely by accident, while we were waiting for a singer. This special baby, along with mom and escort, literally “popped up” of the blue, taking us by surprise.

From above, we could see that the baby had all-white pectoral fins, so it was particularly nerve-wracking when the whales eluded us for several minutes, despite flat-calm conditions.

True to the escort-induced-ping-pong-pattern of motion that’s been all-too-common of late, this trio was difficult. There was no predictable method to their madness, so following them was more gut instinct than measured approach. It took a few tries, but in the end, I was able to get up-close ID-shots of the baby.

Uafitu (calf #27), the first humpback whale baby I've seen with all-white pectoral fins
Uafitu (calf #27), the first humpback whale baby I’ve seen with all-white pectoral fins

I’ve been keeping an eye out for whales with all-white pectoral fins here since I noticed a similar surge in their numbers back in 2006. This fluke morph is relatively more common in the northern hemisphere, so it was natural to wonder whether there could possibly be crossover from north to south.

Back in ’06, some researcher friends were kind enough to forward me a couple of research papers that suggested such a phenomenon might be possible. But even so, it shouldn’t be a common occurrence if it takes place at all, given the disparity in seasons and locations of the two populations at any given time in the year.

Sighting this baby now provides me with proof-positive that white-handed babies are born in the south. Probably not too exciting for most people…but a major thrill for me!

Headcount: +11, -2
As you may have gathered, this past week was a period of transition for my groups of visitors.

Besides sending off eight people during the week, I was scheduled to have five people arrive from Japan and six people from other countries…Taiwan, Thailand, the US, Canada and Russia.

But on Tuesday, I lost the Russian. Followed by one of the Japanese. Instead of 11 people, I ended up with only nine.

We all miss you Andrey, Yokomoto-san!

Both people had their travel plans interrupted due to minor bureaucratic snafus. In Andrey’s instance, transiting through Australia required a visa, even though he wasn’t ever setting foot in the country. Silly, but this requirement is more common than you might imagine.

In Yokomoto-san’s case, Tonga (like many other countries) requires tourists to have at least six months of validity remaining for their passports. He had four or five.

In both cases, the relevant bureaucracies were unable/ unwilling to help, which sadly meant cancelled trips.

To try to learn from this unfortunate turn of events…if you are planning an upcoming trip to any destination, please make sure that you don’t need visas for transit, and also that you have at least six months left (from your planned date of entry to the country concerned) before your passport expires.

Intrepid travellers who left this week: Geri, Minako (oops! hat only visible), Serene, Trevor, May and Maria
Intrepid travellers who left this week:
Geri, Minako (oops! only hat visible), Serene, Trevor, May and Maria

Time to Look for Whales!

I’ve been land-bound for the past few days: making lots of trips to the airport to send friends off and greet new arrivals; dealing with a number of logistical issues; giving a short presentation on humpback whales last night; and just giving myself a bit of a break…I’m half-way through my two-month stay, so it’s good to take a few days off the water.

Fortunately, the calf count initiative has progressed even though I’ve been on land.

Friends have ID-ed three new babies during my dry spell, and re-sighted two that we previously recorded. As of now, we’re up to 22 ID-ed humpback whale mother/ calf pairs…still on course for a new high.

My friends Serene, May, Minako, Trevor, Geri and Maria are on their way home now. Nana, Sean, Dan, Kozy and Ray have arrived (I unfortunately lost one traveller due to last-minute visa issues)…so I’ll be hitting the water again from tomorrow. Can’t wait!

Wristwatch with humpback whale illustration
It’s time to look for humpback whales again

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 3

If I had to pick a single word to characterise this past week in Vava’u, I’d say “tough”.

Early in the week, the winds picked up significantly, staying a pretty constant 25-30 knots, only coming down to the 15-20 knot range on Saturday. If you’ve never been at sea in a small craft, 25-30 knots is bearable, but certainly not comfortable.

With swells hitting two to four metres in some places, it’s difficult swimming as well…which in practicality meant that our search area was restricted, and there were times when whales were around, but we had to forego getting into the water, because safety always comes first.

Subjectively, it seemed like there were fewer whales in the area than in the past couple of weeks. Fewer blows, fewer encounters, with several days during which most of the whale-watching boats didn’t have any substantive encounters.

Maybe the cetaceans are all off doing something…heat runs out in the blue perhaps?…and will be back soon. Of course, the fact that all the boats have been restricted by the winds and sloppy seas may have also contributed to this impression. It’s conceivable that there were whales in the areas that we were unable to visit.

Within this context though, there were still lots of babies around. I was able to ID six more little humpback whales, bringing the tally to 18. There were also at least four babies that we came across, but weren’t able to ID due to prevailing conditions. Bummer for my ID count, but good to see that the population of juveniles is continuing to grow.

Banner Baby Boom
The good news this week is that the banner baby boom is proceeding according to schedule. Updating my graph from last week (taken from my 2010 humpback whale calf count summary file), it looks like the number of humpback whale babies that I’ve been able to ID may be progressing along the same slope as in previous years, but phase-shifted forward a bit.

Graph of humpback whale calf IDs in Tonga
The number of humpback whale babies continues to grow.
(black = 2008; blue = 2009; red = 2010)

Given that the slope has been similar over the past three years, I sort of expected to see this progression, but it’s certainly good to have confirmation with real data…at least to this juncture. I still have a month left, though. Who knows what can happen in that time?

Weather will certainly be a big factor, and losing Sundays out on the water restricts our search time, but if this pace continues and the slope of calf IDs ends up being similar to previous years, we will reach the highest number of ID-ed calfs since I started this effort.

I’m so keeping my fingers crossed!

The dirty water I made reference to last week continues to plague us. The high winds have stirred up sediments, making some areas in really murky. There are certainly places with better visibility, but we’re searching every nook and cranny in order to cover as much area as conditions permit.

Most of our sightings this week have been in the east and in the inner waterways, due in large part to our inability to get further out. The weather forecast says the winds will begin settling soon, so when they do, we’ll be able to extend our search a greater distance from home base.

Humpback whale mother and calf. Tahaua is an adorable baby girl.Third encounter with Tahaua (calf #12) and mom.
Tahaua is an adorable baby girl.

Injured Calf
We came across an injured calf on Tuesday, August 23. Actually, we had heard about it the day before. There was chatter among the whale-watch boats about a wounded calf, possibly attacked by a big predator like a tiger shark.

When we came across the baby whale (which I ID-ed as Tahafa, calf #14), the wounds were clearly visible. There were a couple of large chunks missing from its dorsal surface, and the front part of its dorsal fin was gone.

Front view. Wounds clearly visible on Tahafa's (calf #14) dorsal surface. The anterior portion of its dorsal fin appears to have been bitten off.
Front view. Wounds clearly visible on Tahafa’s (calf #14) dorsal surface.
The anterior portion of its dorsal fin appears to have been bitten off.

I can see why everyone would be concerned, but one look in the water was all it took to see that the calf was perfectly healthy, happy and energetic.

It’s impossible to predict whether this calf will make it all the way through the high-risk period of growing up and then travelling down south to feed and mature, but unless some serious infection sets in, these wounds won’t cause it much trouble.

Moreover, one look at the wounds and it’s pretty obvious that they’re unlikely to be from a tiger shark. Tiger sharks are scavengers and opportunistic feeders. It’s difficult (though not entirely impossible) to conceive of a tiger trying to take a perfectly healthy, fast-swimming calf with a big mom next to it.

The bite sizes look more like they were made by something else. After discussing with Shawn, we’ve come to the conclusion that the most likely culprits are a pack of marine mammals, perhaps pilot whales. I’ve seen lots of pilot whales here (we swam with a big pack last season), and they are certainly cooperative hunters, so it’s a possibility.

In addition to the actual wounds, there were many scratches and scars on the baby’s body that looked like they might have been aborted/ failed bite marks.

The visibility was pretty bad when we came across this mother/ calf pair, but in any case, the baby looked and behaved just fine.

Wounded humpback whale calf
Tahafa (calf #14) with mom. The calf has visible wounds on its dorsal surface,
but was otherwise healthy and energetic.

Two Timer
One particularly interesting encounter for me over the past few days was with a horny male. I’m referring, of course, to an escort whale.

Early on Friday the 26th, we came across a humpback whale mother, baby and escort in the general area of Tapana and Euakafa. The winds were high and the seas frothy…meaning it was difficult to follow the trio.

Given the prevailing conditions, it would’ve been nice if the whales had taken pity on us by sitting still, or travelling slowly if they needed to travel at all…but no. They pinged back-and-forth in erratic patterns, diving for short periods sometimes, disappearing for ten minutes or more in other instances…but in all cases, not making it easy for us.

We went downwind, upwind, sidewind, over waves, into waves, through waves…going every which way you can possibly imagine…for around three hours…with the incessant bouncing pounding my brain into a mushy pulp in the process.

During that time, the whales lost us a few times…like totally ditched us…reappearing way far away from where we expected.

The thing is, it wasn’t as if they were in any rush, and they weren’t avoiding the boat per se. This is just what they were doing…before we found them, while we followed them, and long after we left them.

I managed to get into the water with them only twice.

The first time, the mother turned to take a look at me. From experience, I was sure that her body language indicated curiosity and interest. The baby’s certainly did. But then they took off again and kept up the aquatic ping-pong act.

On the second drop, the mom actually stopped, probably to take a breather. When she brought the baby up, she passed right by, staring me in the eye, and once again…looking for all practical purposes to be friendly.

Imagine how puzzled I was when the trio took off once more in a perfect illustration of Brownian motion.

Despite the aquatic acrobatics, I managed to get good enough photos to ID the calf as Tahafitu, calf #17 of the season.

Tahafitu (calf #17 of the 2011 season) with mom in awful visibility. The escort that was pushing them along is visible below.
Tahafitu (calf #17 of the 2011 season) with mom in awful visibility.
The escort that was pushing them along is visible below.

Fast-forward to the next morning, when we came across another mom, calf and escort in roughly the same area.

When I saw this trio, the first thought in my head was: “Oh no, please not again!”

The first dorsal fin I saw break the surface was the escort. I couldn’t be 100% certain, but it looked to me like it was the same escort as the previous day…an observation that only exacerbated my sense of dread.

When the mom and baby appeared though, I breathed a sigh of relief, because the mom’s dorsal was completely different from Tahafitu’s (calf #17) mom.

My relief was short-lived however, as this trio took us on a guided tour of the vicinity that put the previous day’s experience to shame. Back-and-forth, back-and-forth, back-and-forth, over-and-over, over-and-over, over-and-over…you get the picture.

We managed three drops into the water, which was really mucked up. Visibility was poor (such an understatement), meaning it was difficult to get ID photos. To make things worse, the first drop happened so suddenly that I didn’t have my camera on (I really need a sign that says…Caution: Professional at work), and on the second drop, the whales swam up-sun of us, meaning we had a terrific view of backlit sand, grit, and other miscellaneous stuff in the water between us and them.

The third and final drop didn’t look too good either: visibility was still bad, and the whales swam away.

But…I had another one of those moments, like the one I described to in Part 1, in reference to ID-ing Fa (calf #4) on Day Six. Even though the whales had long passed, I continued to swim, partly out of hope, mostly out of desperation and frustration.

I maintained visual contact with the trio in the haze, and after perhaps 20 seconds or so, I saw the mom execute a slow, graceful 180 and head straight toward me.

She apparently caught the escort off guard, as the third whale continued on its previous trajectory.

I stopped and watched as the mom approached, bringing the baby (which I ID-ed as Tahavalu, calf #18 of the season) to within touching distance of me, once again slowing down to make eye contact and give me time to take photos.

Tahavalu's (calf #18 of the 2011 season) mom brought the calf directly to me, in really bad visibility with the sun on the wrong side
Tahavalu’s (calf #18) mom brought the calf directly to me,
in really bad visibility with the sun on the wrong side

Then, without warning, the mom and baby thumped their flukes and took off at high speed. It was only then that I saw the escort approaching at high speed, flying past and heading off in hot pursuit of the cow and calf.

So…here’s what I figured out: After I got back and downloaded photos, I confirmed that my initial observation was correct. The escort was the same on both days. I cross-checked markings on the dorsal fin, torso and right pectoral fin. There’s no mistake.

Two days; two different females; same randy male.

My “feeling” on both days was that the females were friendly, probably favourably disposed to us. This didn’t jive with their frenetic behaviour though.

I got the sense that the escort, however, “pushed” the females and their babies forward on both occasions, a feeling that was supported by the marked change I saw in Tahavalu’s (calf #18) mom’s behaviour when the escort wasn’t around and when it was.

In short…it’s quite possible that neither calf #17’s mom nor calf #18’s mom cared for this particular escort’s overtures, which may help explain the whales’ erratic movements on both days. The mommies were trying to send a clear message to the suitor: “Scram!”, but the escort was too thick-headed and/ or juiced with testosterone to comprehend.

(It’s a good thing that’s never happened to me.)

Besides the obvious fact that I documented a two-timing humpback whale male, it’s also interesting to note the difference in the way these two females treated this escort, with the intimate manner in which Tolu’s mom (calf #3 of the season) interacted with her escort, as I described in Part 2.

The take-away observations for me are first, that humpback whale females clearly have preferences. Some guys do it for them; others don’t. I figured this was the case, but it’s nice to have such clear confirmation.

And second, that in-water observation provides insights that would be difficult to achieve by other means.

Incidentally…I’ve also seen sperm whale males “loved” by all the females in a family group, and others unanimously rejected by them. Take from that what you will.

Note: After drafting this post, I remembered that Shawn had shown me a photo he took on 25 August of a mom, baby, escort from outside Hunga. The shot was from behind, and a bit far, so we couldn’t ID it at that time, but I recalled that the escort looked similar to this one I described above. I took another look, and sure enough, it was the same escort. The mom and baby on that day were Tahafitu (calf #17) and mom. So Shawn documented this calf one day before I named it. Cool, huh?

Comparison of escort whale's dorsal fin: Left taken with calf #18 on 27 Aug; Right taken with calf #17 on 26 Aug.
Comparison of escort whale’s dorsal fin:
Left taken with calf #18 on 27 Aug; Right taken with calf #17 on 26 Aug.

Searching for Patterns/ Speculation
I still have a month+ to go here in Tonga, but it’s getting to be that time again when I start looking for patterns and speculate about what’s going on based upon what I’ve seen during the season. It’s early yet, but here are a few things that I’ve been mulling over this week:

Pace of Calf IDs
The numbers and timing of mother/ calf pair IDs vary each year, but one observation that seems to be emerging from the data I’ve collected in the past few years is that the slope of the graph depicting the pace of IDs is similar.

Perhaps this doesn’t come as a big surprise, but it’s good to have patterns derive from data, rather than conjecture or assumption. If this year’s calf-sighting slope is once again similar to those of previous seasons, then it underscores the possibility that this is a pattern.

I know from friends who live here that the whales in general showed up early this season. Consistent with this fact, it seems like the slope of our IDs is holding true to past years, but phase-shifted forward a little. It will be interesting to see how this develops over the next few weeks.

Humpback whale calf with mother and escort
Second encounter with Tahatolu (calf #13)
with mom and escort swimming below. Tahatolu is a playful little boy.

Patterns of Behaviour
Patterns of behaviour among the whales here change from season to season.

In 2009 for instance, there were lots of mother/ calf pairs around, many of which were very settled, meaning they’d just sit still and let the babies play.

In 2010, there weren’t as many mother/ calf pairs as the previous season, and they seemed much less settled, in general unwilling to sit still (with the exception of Ikumi and mom).

This year, it’s looking as if we’ll end with more mother/ calf IDs than the 31 pairs in 2009, but the whales seem to be “neutral”, for lack of a better term. Of the 18 mother/ calf pairs I’ve ID-ed this season, none have really been terribly interactive, and only a few actively avoided contact.

Most seem not to be avoiding people per se, but it’s more like they’re going about their business, not too concerned about whether we’re there or not. In practicality, this means that it’s been difficult to “get to know” any particular baby well.

There have been a few extended, interactive encounters with mother/ calf pairs, but overall, not a high proportion relative to the number of babies in the area.

Also of note, it seems like there’s been a lot of breaching this season. I’ve seen breaching whales almost every day I’ve been here, sometimes several times a day. I recall that in 2005, there was a lot of breaching as well. I took a lot of breaching photos that year. In other seasons, there’s been some, but not nearly as much I’ve seen this year or in 2005.

Patterns of Physical Characteristics
In many years, there seem to be shared patterns of physical characteristics that appear among a number of whales, but seem not to appear again in appreciable quantity in other seasons. I can’t be 100% sure of the following observations, because I don’t see every whale, but the apparent occurrence of common physical traits on a season-by-season basis is something that’s nagged me for many years.

Last year, there seemed to be a disproportionate number of predominately black whales. This year, there are certainly some around, but most of the whales are some variation of the southern-hemisphere archetype of being dark on top, with white on the belly and some on the sides.

In 2006, I photographed a number (I recall something like six to eight) of whales with all-white pectoral fins, meaning white on both sides. In other years, I haven’t seen many. So far this season, I’ve photographed three, and Shawn has photographed one. There may have been another sighting, which I’m trying to track down now.

Humpback whale with all white pectoral fins!
The third whale with all-white pectoral fins I’ve photographed this season.
This looked like it was the male in a courting pair. Visibility underwater was horrible!

Last season, we saw several (4-5) whales with split dorsal fins, most likely not due to injury. I don’t recall seeing split dorsals in any other season.

This year, I’ve photographed five whales with a black central region on the ventral surface of their flukes. I haven’t noticed this pattern before, but it’s entirely possible that I just wasn’t looking.

Humpback whale baby playing at ocean surface
Tolu (calf #3 of the season) is one of five whales
I’ve photographed this season with this fluke pattern.

What does all this mean? I’m not sure. Perhaps it’s a clue to something very important; perhaps it’s just coincidence.

But as I stare at images each night, I keep looking for patterns, because where there are patterns, there is often meaning.

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 2

Quick-and-dirty summary of the past week: Moderate, fickle winds shifting directions on a regular basis; some rain and cloud cover, but nothing too bad; more whale-watching boats on the water this week than the previous week; fewer tourists and less yacht traffic viz the average for this time of year; lots and lots of baby humpback whales; more breaching activity than I’ve seen in several years.

Fitu (calf #7 of the 2011 season) with mom. Note the unusual clover-like mark on the calf's dorsal surface.
Fitu (calf #7 of the 2011 season) with mom.
Note the unusual clover-like mark on the calf’s dorsal surface.

Dirty Dozen
The big news of the week is that our mother/ calf ID count is up to 12 pairs now. That’s triple the number I ended last week with, and double to quadruple the figure at this same time in the past few years.

As you can see from the graph below (which I excerpted from my 2010 humpback whale calf count summary file), we’re on track to surpass the 2009 count of 31 mother/ calf pairs. I’m hoping to end the season with at least 32.

Humpback whale calf census in Tonga
Our calf ID count is proceeding at a record pace this season.
(2008 = black, 2009 = blue, 2010 = red)

Hitting 32 would be great. It would be satisfying to achieve a record calf count this year, as I set out a case for the possibility of a banner baby year this season when I wrapped up in 2010. But more importantly, surpassing our 31-calf count in 2009 would be a positive indication for the health and recovery of the southern hemisphere humpback whale population…which is, after all, the most important thing.

I know there are more babies around, but it’s simply not possible to get to every calf that’s spotted each day. Plus, we are confined to land for seven Sundays this season due to the restrictions on tourism in Vava’u, meaning I’m losing a week’s worth of working time.

Reinforcements have arrived though. My friends Shawn and John just got here to continue filming for a documentary project (they were here last season too), so I’ll have more eyes on the water for the next couple of weeks.

Having an extra boat out on the water with reliable, competent people will be invaluable.

Lima (calf #5 of the 2011 season) and mom with two escorts, travelling at high speed
Lima (calf #5 of the 2011 season) and mom with two escorts, travelling at high speed

There are a few things I think worth mentioning at this stage about our calf sightings.

First, many of our encounters this season have been in murky water, with really bad visibility. This makes ID-ing even more challenging, as we need to be able to make out unique features on the mother/ calf pairs to be confident about the IDs.

To complicate matters, quite a few of the moms have seemed particularly shy. It’s normal for some proportion of the female humpbacks we encounter to be evasive, but subjectively, there seems to be a high ratio this year.

The practical implication of bad visibility + shy moms for my ID effort is that for quite a few mother/ calf pairs, we only have a few shots…from behind, at a distance, in murky water. Certainly not ideal, but fortunately, still workable…with lots of squinting and hand-wringing.

Another implication is that it’s been more difficult than in previous seasons to determine the sex of the baby whales we’ve seen. In order to sex the little ones, I need to be able to see/ photograph their undersides, which means being reasonably close and having time to observe. So far, I’ve only been able to determine the sex of three of the 12 babies: two males and one female.

Finally, there have been people who’ve argued over the years that there are few/ no baby whales in the inner island areas, especially in places with frequent boat traffic. This argument has been used as attempted justification to create restrictions on boat traffic and/ or to ban whale watching/ whale swimming.

Over the past couple of seasons, we’ve used GPS to mark our calf encounters, and have demonstrated that humpback whale mother/ calf pairs make use of all the waters around Vava’u, including the inner waterways.

This season is shaping up the same way. This past week, for example, we’ve come across mother/ calf pairs next to Luamoko, by Tungasika, near Matamaka, and off of Oto.

I’m certainly not saying that boats and people don’t need to be careful in the inner waterways, but I am saying that discussion of this nature need to be resolved based on fact, not emotional fervour.

Sunset in Vava'u on Wednesday. Red skies at night were a good sign for the following day.
Sunset in Vava’u on Wednesday.
Red skies at night were a good sign for the following day.

Sex Change
I made a mistake last week.

Tolu (calf #3) is not female. She is now a he; or more accurately, he was never a she.

I’m not sure how I made that mistake, but it’s probably because my days are so packed, and I’m doing all my file downloading, GPS recording, note-taking and calf ID-ing at night, when I’m just bloody exhausted.

Anyway, I caught the mistake because we had a third encounter with Tolu this week, meaning that Tolu and mom have been in Vava’u for at least eight days (first encounter on 11 Aug, second on 13 Aug, most recent on 18 Aug).

Tolu’s mom was quite shy during our first two encounters, making it difficult to get really good photos. Tolu, if you recall, is an extremely playful calf that reminded me of Ikumi from last year, with a wound on his abdomen that looks like it resulted from an unfortunate encounter with a fishing line or other similar rope.

Anyway, in this third encounter, Tolu and mom were accompanied by an escort. In many instances, escorts stir things up. They often push the mom and baby along, keeping the whales moving and making it relatively difficult to have good encounters. This was the case with Lima, calf #5, which was accompanied by two escorts, as well as for Fitu (calf #7) and Valu (calf #8) which were both travelling at high speed with escorts.

Humpback whale calf with mother and escort
Little Tolu being allowed to go off and play on his own,
while mom and escort make like lovebirds below

In this case, the escort seemed to have a calming effect on Tolu’s mom. She was relaxed, chilled out, totally unconcerned with where her baby was playing. She let Tolu tail-slap and flop around at the surface alone, head over to play with people, and generally do as he pleased…while she and the escort cruised along, often touching one another, in what appeared to be lovey-dovey bliss. Complete contrast to the first two encounters.

I write that half tongue-in-cheek, but that’s really what it seemed like. Tolu’s mom must have really, really liked this particular escort. His presence completely pacified her.

The upshot was that Tolu was allowed to play with us, and I was able to take really good photos of his abdomen, showing that Tolu is a definitely a he.

[Note: In case you’re not familiar with the concept of an escort whale, it’s basically a horny male that’s hanging out with a female with a kid already, perhaps in hopes of getting some action.]

Humpback whale calf Tolu playing at the surface, while mom (right) and escort cruise together below
Humpback whale calf Tolu playing at the surface,
while mom (right) and escort cruise together below

For comparison, here is photo of Tahataha (calf #11), showing her developing mammary slits. Boys like Tolu don’t have those.

Tahataha (calf #11 of the 2011 season) with mom, in extremely bad visibility. Inset shows the calf's mammary slits
Tahataha (calf #11 of the 2011 season) with mom,
in extremely bad visibility. Inset shows the calf’s mammary slits

The Week Ahead
For the upcoming week, friends from Japan, the US and Singapore are here with me. We’ll be out on three boats looking for great encounters, and hoping to add to the calf count if weather, winds, water and whales permit.

I’m also hoping that in addition to mother/ calf pairs, we’ll see some high-action heat runs and more breaching. Swimming with mother/ calf pairs is wonderful, but there’s nothing quite like the adrenaline rush of watching a bunch of whales travel at high speed while snorting, groaning, slapping and body-slamming one another!

2011 Humpback Whale Season in Tonga: Part 1

The 2011 humpback whale season in Vava’u is off to a spectacular start!

In my first six days on the water this season, I’ve been able to ID four humpback whale calfs (Taha, Ua, Tolu, Fa). In addition, I’ve received photos of another calf I haven’t seen yet, so that’s five confirmed baby whales so far. We also saw two additional mother/ calf pairs which we were unable to ID (but I’m pretty sure were different from the ones I identified) because we weren’t able to get into the water with them. In other words, there are lots of babies swimming around.

humpback whale calf and mom
Fa (humpback whale calf #4 of the 2011 season) and mom

Besides seeing the baby humpback whales mentioned above, my first group of travellers got in the water to see and listen to a singing bull whale for several breath cycles, jumped in with several heat runs of between three and six whales, spent time watching a pair of whales resting in 15 metres of water or so, swam with a couple of single juvenile whales, and watched a number of whales breach, and breach, and breach, and breach, and breach…like cetacean versions of the Energizer Bunny.

If you read my posts from last year (see August 2010 and September 2010 post archives), you’ll know that this is marked change. Last season was a bit of a challenge, with what seemed like a lower-than-average overall whale count, mother/ calf pairs really making us work to ID them, and all whales in general seeming “standoffish” and unfriendly. The season certainly had its highlights and special moments, but overall, it was tough.

Based on my experience last week, I think it’s fair to say that if things continue in this manner, this season will be the complete opposite.

Relaxing Island Life, Hectic Days at Sea
I tried something new (for me) with my first group of fellow travellers this year. Instead of staying in town, we based ourselves at Mounu, a beautiful little island situated right in the heart of whale territory, fringed by white sand beaches and shallow coral reefs.

The island has four bungalows, so we occupied the entire resort, and basically…had an amazing time!

Our hosts, Allan, Lyn and Kirsty were fabulous, and the weather and whales couldn’t have been more cooperative.

One of the bungalows at Mounu Island Resort, under a full moon
One of the bungalows at Mounu Island Resort, under a full moon

Our terrific hosts Lyn, Kirsty and Allan
Our terrific hosts Lyn, Kirsty and Allan

Get this…the day that we showed up at the island, a mother and baby were waiting right offshore, literally a swim away. It was getting dark, so there was no way to go see them, but they put on a bit of a show with tail-slapping, breaching and such to bid us good evening. The next morning…you guessed it…they were less than 100m off the beach.

So after a quick(!) breakfast, we had all of a five-second commute before getting in with Taha and mom, a little boy whale that was reasonably playful, though mom was on the cautious side.

humpback whale mother and calf
Taha (humpack whale calf #1 of the 2011 season) and mother

From there, things just kept getting better. Here’s a quick rundown of the highlights:

Day One: ID-ed two baby whales: Taha (male) and Ua

Day Two: Pair of adults resting at 15m or so. Humongous pod of spinner dolphins, which at one point harassed a poor single whale that could only huff, puff and grunt in obvious frustration. Loads of fun for the dolphins, nice show for us…not such a happy time for the whale. But in the end, the dolphins relented and the whale dived down to get some well-deserved R&R.

Day Three: ID-ed a third baby whale, little Tolu (female). Tolu was incredibly, incredibly playful. Her mom never rested though, so we didn’t have a chance to spend extended time with the baby. But every time Tolu came up, she spun around, twirled, slapped, swished…obviously enjoying being carefree and young. Personality-wise, she reminded me of Ikumi (calf 201005 from last season). If we come across her again when mom is more settled, I have no doubt that she’ll put on quite a show.

Of note, Tolu has a long scar on her abdomen. It appears as if the scar is the result of a run-in with a line of some sort, perhaps a fishing line or longline. The cut looks like it was deep and painful, but it’s healing over, and Tolu fortunately appears none the worse for the unfortunate encounter.

humpback whale calf playing at the ocean surface in Tonga
Tolu (humpback whale calf #3 of the 2011 season) playing at the ocean surface

Incidentally, we’ve decided to name the baby whales this year according to the Tongan numbers. So Taha = 1, Ua = 2, Tolu = 3, etc. We’re doing this in part to make it easier to name the whales, but also so we can learn how to count in Tongan. So far, I’ve learned how to count up to seven. By the end of the season, perhaps I’ll be as proficient at counting as a Tongan toddler.

Day Four: Nice heat run with six whales.

Day Five: Cooperative singer in the AM, with its fluke resting at 12-15m or so, followed by a second encounter with Tolu, and then a five-whale heat run that broke up into smaller groups. Spotted another baby, but unable to lock down an ID.

One of the whales in the heat run had all-white pectoral fins (both dorsal and ventral), which is something I keep an eye out for because they are relatively easy to recognise. I didn’t get a good photo, but I did get one that’s OK to use for ID purposes. One thing I’ve been meaning to do is organise all the photos we’ve accumulated over the years of whales with all-white pecs to see if there are any repeat sightings.

Four of the humpback whales in a five-whale heat run
Four of the humpback whales in a five-whale heat run

Day Six: ID-ed Fa, the fourth calf of the season. Fa and mom were sneaky, slipping away a few times when we were close, but on one drop, when I was sure mom was going to take the baby and swim away at speed, she inexplicably turned around, brought the baby right to me, swam in front of me at slow speed, and then cruised away. The pair were so close that I couldn’t fit them in frame for all the photos!

This was invaluable for ID-ing this baby, as the visibility was low, and I wasn’t sure at the time if the other photos would be good enough to establish an ID.

The whales’ approach wasn’t threatening in any way, and they were already on a trajectory that was heading away, so the pair actually changed course to come toward me. This has happened many times over the years, so I’m wondering whether it’s a common pattern of behaviour. It sounds silly, but it’s almost like the mom “presented” the baby for perfect ID photos, and then resumed her path out to sea. Go figure.

We saw another mom and baby not 200m away from Fa, but it was clear that the pair weren’t happy having company, so we left them alone.

Later, three whales treated us to a breach-fest. Of course, for the people with cameras, the wrong whales always seemed to breach at the right time, while the right whale always did the wrong thing at the right time. It was…in short…an introduction to the frustrating (but fun and addictive) world of whale photography for everyone on the boat.

Friends Old and New
Of course, even the best weather and whales wouldn’t have meant much without the company of great friends, old and new. My first group of six travellers comprised Vania and Yvonne from Hong Kong, George and Debbie from the US (whom I met during a trip to the Eastern Fields of PNG), and Martin and Julie, who were also from the US.

Despite differing backgrounds and ages (Vania and Yvonne were the kids of the bunch; they’d probably argue that I was the child though), interpersonal dynamics clicked, so we were joking around and chatting away like old friends from the get-go.

I thoroughly enjoyed spending time with all of them, and I’m so, so happy to have been able to share a few special cetacean encounters with the group. It meant the world to me to see the looks of joy, wonder and amazement on their faces each day. It was also nice having a chance to ramble on about some of the whale-related experiences I’ve had in the past. Whether anyone actually listened or not…I’m not sure.

Vania, Yvonne, George, Debbie, Martin, Julie…Thank you so much for being perfect travel companions!

Group photo with Whale Watch Vavau
Everyone was happy at the end of the trip!

Onward and Forward
As I write this, I have another three groups who will be arriving this afternoon from Japan. Many have actually been here before, so the dynamics will be a little different in the coming days. The humpback whale veterans will be striving to get the “perfect” photo, or to see specific behaviours they haven’t encountered before. So long as the whales and weather continue to play nice though, I have no doubt everyone will have a great time.

There is one dark cloud hanging over the tourism industry here right now though…the banning of all activity on Sundays. A couple of days ago, I posted the text of the letter sent out by the police in Vava’u on this matter.

I’ve spoken with lots of people around town, and all I can say is that I’m no wiser about what’s actually happening or what the motivation behind this sudden policy announcement is.

I do know that the police enforced the policy yesterday, preventing any and all remotely fun activity from taking place. For instance, people wanting to go by boat to an island resort for lunch were told not to bother.

The letter of the law says what it says, but it’s never been enforced, and if it is actually enforced word for word, then nothing would be allowed, including operation of restaurants (which is currently being allowed), operation of any machinery, or even dancing. Makes no sense to me (or probably to any other sane person), but it is what it is for the time being.

For those of you who are joining me later this season, don’t worry too much about it. Whatever happens will happen, and we’ll figure things out. I can’t predict how this no-fun-allowed-on-Sunday policy will play out. But if the situation changes, I’ll post relevant information as soon as possible.

So for now, it’s off to the airport, and time to get ready to get back on the water.

Exploring Palau by Kayak

It’s been a while since I visited Palau earlier this year. In fact, it’s been five months.

I’ve been eager to share some photos and write about my first substantial visit to the island nation since 1995, but I had to wait for two things. First, the trip was courtesy of Sam’s Dive Tours, Planet Blue Kayak Tours, and Sport Diver Magazine. As such, I had to wait for the article to come out in the June issue of the magazine: Hidden Palau, Sport Diver June 2011, 1.3MB.

Second, I had to wait until I returned from my recent trip to Papua New Guinea, where I was for the entire month of June. Since getting back, I’ve been swamped catching up with work, dealing with life’s little chores, and getting ready for my annual migration to the southern hemisphere to frolic with humpback whales.

So…realising that the only way I was ever going to write this post was to isolate myself…I’ve just escaped to a little bar in the basement of a building in Tokyo where I’m scheduled to meet some friends later tonight. But since it’s the middle of the day, there’s no one here, and there’s no 3G or Wifi signal. I have a pot of coffee beside me and a fully charged laptop battery, so here goes…

Aerial view of the Natural Arch formation in the Rock Islands of Palau
Aerial view of the Natural Arch formation in the Rock Islands of Palau

Dive Different
If you’ve been reading my blog for any reasonable period of time, you’ll know that I have a penchant for going to relatively unexplored places and doing unusual things. I like to “Think Different”, to borrow Apple’s slogan.

Palau is a wonderful place, with fantastic diving, but the islands don’t really fit my preference profile. It’s not particularly difficult to get to Palau, and there are literally dozens of boats ferrying hundreds of divers every day to well-known reefs. That, in short, is the reason I had not travelled to Palau to dive since 1995.

So…when I received an email asking whether I’d be interested in an assignment in Palau, I initially wasn’t all that excited. But one part caught my eye, a description of the trip as a: “very cool opportunity to shoot some places in Palau that don’t normally get covered in dive publications”.

Curiosity piqued, I pinged a few emails back and forth with friends in Palau and with the magazine, and soon realised that this could be a unique opportunity…a chance to explore some of the hidden, relatively unknown areas of otherwise well-known Palau, if that makes sense.

Exploring Palau by kayak
Exploring Palau by kayak offered a unique perspective
for a well-explored destination (and a great tanning opportunity!)

Specifically, the core concept of the trip was to explore Palau’s Rock Islands by kayak, meaning that we’d be going nice-and-slow through some of the most picturesque, untouched regions of the island nation.

By day, we’d explore inner waterways, clamber up sharp limestone formations, snorkel and scuba into hidden lakes, paddle under lush overhanging vegetation, and crawl through tight, submerged tunnels to see isolated, virgin coral formations. By night, we’d camp on beaches, dine al fresco, and sleep in tents.

I mean…how cool is that?!!!

Dining al fresco in the evening at Blue Devil Beach, Palau
Dining al fresco in the evening at Blue Devil Beach after a day of paddling

Who’s Who?
The cast of characters for this trip was short.

Ron Leidich was our guide. He’s lived in Palau for a long time…I think something on the order of 15 years…during which time he’s done the dive-guiding thing, but more recently, he’s been devoting time to exploring every nook and cranny of Palau’s Rock Islands…discovering, in the process, some pretty amazing stuff.

Ron showing us an insectivorous pitcher plant (Nepenthes mirabilis) while we were paddling to Disney Lake in Neco Bay
Ron showing us an insectivorous pitcher plant (Nepenthes mirabilis)
while we were paddling to Disney Lake in Neco Bay

Ron and I are about the same age (physically, and tragically…also mentally). Within hours of first contact, we got along like long-time drinking buddies…cracking stupid jokes, making obscure references to old movies, imitating cartoon characters, singing bad ‘70s and ‘80s tunes (Ron, not me!), and generally just acting like the (im)mature adults(?) that we are.

Anyway…poor Terry. The magazine sent Terry Ward to write the article, which meant: (a) I didn’t have the pressure of taking notes, and (b) she had to put up with our nonsense. From my point of view, (a) was terrific. From her point of view, (b)…probably not so much.

Terry listening to Ron's briefing for the adventures ahead
Terry listening to Ron’s briefing for the adventures ahead

In the beginning, I could tell that she wasn’t quite sure how to handle us, but good sport that she is, Terry became inured to us for the most part within a couple of days, and either ignored the insanity, or just shook her head from time-to-time in a vaguely parental manner.

Then there was Malcolm Maltel, who was arguably the most important person on the trip. He was our cook. Malcolm made outstanding(!) food, and lots of it…certainly a great way to wrap-up each long, tiring day.

Malcolm holding up a land crab (Cardisoma sp.)
Malcolm holding up a Palau land crab (Cardisoma sp.)

Malcolm also has an encyclopedic knowledge of the islands’ flora…comprising not just names of plants and flowers, but also traditional uses (food, medicine, etc.), some of which he shared with us during the trip.

Ron’s knowledge of the islands’ plant life is also incredible. Try as I might, there were few times when I could stump the two of them with a plant ID. Ron and Malcolm are working together on a guide book of Palau’s flowering plants, a draft of which we saw. It’s an incredibly detailed collection of information and pictures, including many things that probably haven’t been documented to date.

Rounding out the motley crew was Jefferson Nestor, who was in command of our support boat and made sure our considerable load of junk made it from point to point every day. Jefferson has one of the most infectious smiles I’ve ever come across (and of course, doof that I am, I didn’t take a good photo of him). I tried to make him laugh as often as possible, just to enjoy his amazing grin.

Twists, Turns and Tunnels
Perhaps the most significant thing I learned on this adventure was that even the most well-known places have secrets.

As I alluded to earlier, Palau is one of the most popular and frequently visited dive destinations in the world…for good reason. The reefs are teeming with life, and signature sites like Blue Corner, German Channel, and others rarely fail to deliver. If you’re a diving addict, it’s a must-do destination.

The thing is…there’s actually a lot more to Palau. Places that most tourists never see. Heck, places that even people who live in Palau don’t visit.

It’s to some of these places that Ron took us.

To access some of Palau’s hidden secrets, we had to navigate through tunnels, sometimes fully submerged, sometimes partially so. In certain cases, the fit was so tight that I felt like a contortionist folding myself into a tube of toothpaste.

As if that weren’t challenge enough, I had to drag camera gear through as well…Ouch!

Anyway, this photo pretty much sums up what the experience was like:

Entrance to hidden lake in Palau rock islands
Ron and Terry in one of the tunnels we traversed,
hidden lake visible in the background

We had to pick and choose the times we went through (and more importantly, headed back), as being on the wrong side of the tunnel at the wrong time could have turned into a less-than-enjoyable experience. In this case, as we crawled through, I carried my camera along bit-by-bit, setting it on the rocks as I made progress. (All those tedious hours in the gym finally paid off.)

There were hydroids covering the bottom of several tunnels, which gave Terry butt burn on at least one occasion. As you can perhaps surmise, both Ron and I thought that was rather amusing, though we (mostly) laughed behind Terry’s back…out of respect. Ron seemed immune to stings, perhaps from repeated exposure or just to a thick hide. I was always fully covered, so managed to avoid getting stung.

Anyway, you might be wondering, “Why bother going to this trouble?”

Well, on the other side of tunnels and passages like the one pictured above were pristine environments. Emerging from a tunnel into one of these unspoiled lakes was like finding myself immersed in a scene from the movie Jurassic Park…minus voracious prehistoric predators with menacing teeth, of course.

Above water, plants draped themselves across the rocks and one another, creating beautiful hanging gardens over the enclosed saltwater lakes, with birds nesting among the tropical foliage in complete safety. Normally shy tropic birds, for instance, flew low to the water, passing right over our heads. On one occasion, we saw a pair mate in mid-air, setting new standards for the Mile High Club!

Beneath the water’s surface, there were communities of undisturbed corals, and sometimes even populations of fish and other marine life that have been largely isolated from their cousins in the open ocean.

With nothing to disturb them, many corals in these secluded environments have grown to large proportions; some that we encountered were so fragile and thin that they were translucent.

There were corals in the lakes so fragile that they were translucent. This is the edge of a large Pachyseris speciosa formation
There were corals in the lakes so fragile that they were translucent.
This is the lava-like edge of a large Pachyseris speciosa formation.

Another example of translucent coral (Merulina sp.) in Palau's rock island lakes
Another example of translucent coral (Merulina sp.) in Palau’s Rock Island lakes

Of course, the visibility in these enclosed environments and nearby waters wasn’t terribly good.

But that was, in a sense, the whole point.

You see, protected places like these hidden lakes, other semi-enclosed shallow-water areas, sheltered mangrove forests and the like…serve as nurseries for many fish and other species of marine life…places of sanctuary.

In other words, a significant part of the reason that that the reefs of Palau are so healthy and such a magnet for divers from all around the world is because there are so many protected, pristine areas like this scattered among the Rock Islands, where corals flourish, young fish grow in safety, and marine life gathers to reproduce and disseminate.

No safe, hidden, murky environments = no healthy coral reefs and tropical fish.

It’s all connected.

Shallow, protected places have murky water, but provide a safe environment for corals to flourish and develop into intricate, unbroken formations
Shallow, protected places have murky water, but provide a safe environment
for corals to flourish and develop into intricate, unbroken formations

Juvenile pajama cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera) in Palau
Calm, shallow environments provide shelter for many juvenile animals,
like this baby pajama cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera)

Teasing Terry
Remember I mentioned “Poor Terry” above? Well, to give you but one example of what she had to put up with…

Among our many unique experiences, Ron took us to a place where he’s often come across piles of banded sea kraits (Laticauda colubrina) hauled up on the rocks above the water line. They seem to enjoy resting in groups of several individuals, as they were doing when we visited.

I know these amphibious reptiles climb onto land to lay eggs, so I was hoping to see some eggs, or at least some sign of egg-laying. But nope. Ron’s never seen any eggs either, so it’s a bit of a mystery why the animals gather on these rocks. Perhaps it’s just to take a break from swimming?

A pile of four or five venomous banded sea kraits (Laticauda colubrina) lounging on a shaded rocky ledge in the Rock Islands of Palau
A pile of four or five venomous banded sea kraits (Laticauda colubrina)
lounging on a shaded rocky ledge in the Rock Islands of Palau

Anyway, to see these animals up close, Terry and I had to dismount in a ginger fashion from the bow of the boat while it was sloshing up and down with the surge, and then scamper up the rocks, with the sea directly below us (while carrying camera and lenses, in my case).

So basically, we were perched on a steep limestone cliff face, surrounded by piles of slithering sea kraits, with no escape route if one of the reptiles took a fancy to us, or if more slinked up the rocks to join their friends.

Like other marine reptiles, these intriguing animals boast a powerful venom. I’ve never heard of anyone being bitten, and despite their sinister appearance, sea kraits are probably too intelligent to even consider wasting their precious toxin on us.

Sometimes, logic doesn’t really matter though.

In case it’s not entirely obvious from the photo below, Terry was scared. Actually, just saying she was “scared” is somewhat insufficient. “Scared —-less” would be closer to the truth.

Terry bravely facing down a den of slithering sea serpents
Terry bravely facing down a den of slithering sea serpents

Obviously…it was too good of an opportunity to pass up. While she was moving among the rocks, looking for a safe, non-krait-occupied spot to settle down, I pointed behind her and belted out: “Look! There’re more coming up behind you!”.

In rapid succession came squeals of panic from Terry, then howls of laughter from Ron, Jefferson and Malcolm…all of which were audible above the sound of waves smashing against the island. Impressive, no?

Of course…there weren’t any sea kraits climbing up behind her. I should’ve felt bad, but I was too busy chuckling and trying not to drop my camera.

Poor Terry.

Life Will Find A Way
In addition to the hidden lakes, there are other transitional zones nestled among the passages and crevices of the Rock Islands…areas that create unique ecosystems and often provide safe havens for marine life.

One of Ron’s favourite places is a formation of multicoloured Lobophyllia coral he’s named “The Four Corners”.

The Four Corners Lobophyllia coral formation that Ron loves so much
The Four Corners Lobophyllia coral formation
that Ron loves so much

I’m no coral expert, but as I understand, Lobophyllia (often referred to as brain corals, for obvious reasons) are hardy animals. They’re generally found in shallow waters, where there is a decent amount of light to support the symbiotic zooxanthellae that impart colour to them, and more importantly, synthesise food for them.

Ron has found an area where the conditions shouldn’t be so good for these corals, but where they flourish nonetheless…a place he calls Darwin’s Wall as a nod to the cerebral common appellation for Lobophyllia.

There’s not a lot of sunlight that penetrates the canopy of overhanging trees at Darwin’s Wall, and the water is also murky…meaning that the zooxanthallae embedded within the coral polyps probably can’t produce a lot of food, certainly not enough to support the size and abundance of corals present in the area.

Instead, the large colonies of brain corals that live and thrive here may be relying more on nutrients brought to them by large volumes of water flushed daily through two tunnels that connect a large inner lake and the open water.

I know…not all that exciting to a normal person…but if you think about it, the Lobophyllia corals at Darwin’s Wall illustrate the critical point that Jeff Goldblum’s character in Jurassic Park made: “Life will find a way.”

Terry shining a light on multicoloured Lobophyllia brain coral at Darwin's Wall
Terry shining a light on multicoloured
Lobophyllia brain coral at Darwin’s Wall in the Rock Islands of Palau

Another example Ron showed us of life finding a way was in the Patch Reefs, a system of shallow-water coral reefs situated (in both a conceptual and physical manner) between the really mucky waters of the inner lagoons and the crystal-clear blue of the true open ocean.

Back in 1998, there was a really bad El Niño event that affected the entire the Pacific. I remember reading stories of mass devastation to coral reefs, accompanied by a chorus of proclamations that it would take hundreds, maybe thousands, of years for reefs to recover…if ever at all.

Doom and gloom all around.

Well…here’s one of those reefs that was devastated first by El Niño, and then by a massive crown of thorns starfish attack that left the entire area a crumbled, bleached-out wasteland:

Thriving coral reef in an area that was devastated by El Niño in 1998 and crown of thorns thereafter
Thriving coral reef in an area that was devastated by
El Niño in 1998 and crown of thorns thereafter

Sure doesn’t look like the perma-wasteland that so many divers, conservationists, scientists and other miscellaneous authorities asserted that it would be, does it?

Of course, most people would agree that in a perfect world, it’s best for reefs not to experience destruction due to El Niño events, plagues of crown of thorns starfish, or the carelessness of man.

But what this shallow-water reef and others around Palau (as well as the entire Pacific region) clearly demonstrate is that nature isn’t as frail and helpless as humanity too often assumes it to be.

Under the right circumstances, as here in Palau, where an intricate web of independent, but interdependent, ecosystems support one another…”Life will (definitely) find a way.”

In fact, it’ll do more than that. It’ll thrive, as evidenced by the diverse array of colourful juveniles and shallow-water current feeders I found amid the nooks and crannies of the Patch Reefs.

Brilliant juvenile chromis at Fantasy Island in the Patch Reefs
Brilliant juvenile chromis at Fantasy Island in the Patch Reefs

Among the thriving Acropora coral at Fantasy Island were many cute yellow coral gobies (Gobiodon okinawa)
Among the thriving Acropora coral at Fantasy Island
were many cute yellow coral gobies (Gobiodon okinawa)

Dascyllus carneus, a fast-swimming fish that typically lives among healthy corals on shallow reefs, snatching food from current
Dascyllus carneus, a fast-swimming fish that typically lives among
healthy corals on shallow reefs, snatching food from current

Learning to Kayak
One thing I forgot to mention to everyone before heading over to Palau was that I had never kayaked before. Oops.

I didn’t say anything until the first morning, when, with kayaks fully loaded, Ron exclaimed, “OK! We’re ready. Let’s go.”

I raised my hand and said: “Um…how do you get in?” to stunned expressions from all concerned. At that point, I had no choice but to fess up and admit that I’d never kayaked before.

Terry laughed. Ron looked baffled, but took it in stride. He gave me the 45-second Idiot’s Guide to Kayaking explanation of what to do, and off we went.

I’m proud to say that I had no problems. It took a few minutes to get the hang of using the double-sided paddle, but I managed to steer in a (relatively) straight line, and even handled swells and waves with no issue. I didn’t hit any islands either.

When we stopped to check things out, dismounting and re-mounting posed a minor challenge the first couple of times, but I did well. I have no doubt that Ron was proud of me.

Ron and Terry striking a pose with gear-laden kayaks
Ron and Terry striking a pose with gear-laden kayaks

Until I flipped.

Before I elaborate, I just want to be clear that I did not flip due to difficult conditions. I flipped in glass-calm water, with no current, no wind, no waves, no menacing wildlife…nada.

Even better…I flipped twice.

So here’s what happened.

The first time, Ron was showing Terry and me how to glide under a low-hanging arch. Basically, paddle to get a bit of momentum, then lean back until you’re flush with the kayak and float through the arch to the other side. Sort of like doing the limbo, but seated in your kayak.

Ron demonstrated. Looked easy. Terry went through. No problem at all. I headed to the arch, leaned back. Everything was going just peachy until I remembered the sole admonition from Ron. During his explanation, Ron said that the one thing we shouldn’t do is lean right or left.

Now…when someone tells me not to do something, I have a tendency to, well…do it.

So “FLOP!” over I went. Ron sure knows his stuff. All I did was lean a really tiny, little wee bit to the right and before I knew it, I was upside-down. Didn’t even have time to blink.

Fortunately, the water wasn’t deep. It was barely chest-high, so I surfaced immediately, laughing so hard I could barely breathe. Of course, all the carefully packed equipment in my kayak was now on the sea bottom, so it took a while to regain my composure and un-discombobulate myself.

All Ron and Terry could do was shake their heads as they waited in the distance for me.

Now, once should’ve been enough to teach me a lesson, but never let it be said that I learn quickly.

The second time I flipped was…you guessed it…once again in dead-calm conditions.

We were paddling through a narrow mangrove area called Long Lake. It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever had the good fortune of visiting.

The narrow tunnel formed by mangroves and other plants, the birds, the serenity…infused me with the same feeling of awe I get when I visit Hachimangu Kinomiya Shrine in Izu…that of being at one with nature, at peace, centered.

Anyway, as I looked up at the trees, paddle in hand, just floating along basking in the purity of Mother Nature…once again, Ron’s warning came to mind, and yup…over I went once more, this time to the left.

And once again, the water was shallow, so it was basically a repeat performance, with me scrounging around in the soft muddy bottom looking for everything I’d just spilled out of my kayak. Sheesh.

As it turned out, I took my spill in a perfect place to take a couple of photos to illustrate the integral role that mangrove forests play in the health of a complex ecosystem, and also to show how intricate mangrove tree root systems are:

Ron explaining the importance of mangroves to Terry
Ron explaining the importance of mangroves to Terry

Intricate arrays of mangrove roots provide shelter for many juvenile animals
Intricate arrays of mangrove roots provide shelter for many juvenile animals

I tried explaining to Ron and Terry that I’d chosen that specific spot to take a spill because I knew that it’d be a perfect place to take photos…but they wouldn’t have any of it.

So, even though I flipped over twice, I got some nice pictures as a result, and also got to spend time in the most beautiful mangrove area I’ve ever visited.

Open Ocean
Of course, a trip to Palau wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to some of the nation’s world-renowned blue-water dive sites. So, toward the end of our trip, we managed to do one dive each at Blue Corner, the Blue Holes, German Channel and Ngemelis.

The days we had spent exploring the hidden lakes, inner lagoons, mangrove areas and shallow-water reefs of the Rock Islands helped me to appreciate those dives in an entirely new light. Kayaking with Ron’s guidance through the hidden environments of the Rock Islands had “pulled back the veil” so to speak, and given me an opportunity to see what underpinned the health of Palau’s world-famous reefs.

I won’t bore you with too much narrative about the blue-water dives…just a brief mention of the highlight for me of our handful of “normal” dives, which was having the opportunity to spend some quality time with a juvenile spotted eagle ray (Aetobatus narinari). I’ve always been a fan of these graceful animals, possibly because of their permanent mickey-mouse grin.

I learned that the Palauan word for eagle ray is the same as that for Audobon shearwater, and both are considered gods. So basically, I photographed a smiling baby god. Doesn’t get much better than that.

A baby eagle ray (Aetobatus narinari) at Blue Corner, with dive boats and barracudas visible behind
A baby eagle ray (Aetobatus narinari) at Blue Corner,
with dive boats and barracudas visible behind

Cavorting With Crustaceans
One evening, just before dinner, we somehow got on the topic of land crabs. I seem to recall that the discussion had something to do with catching land crabs to eat for dinner. They’re absolutely delicious, especially when a master like Malcolm prepares them.

Anyway, he casually let slip during the chat that female crabs would be heading to the water to release eggs soon.

Whoa! Hold the press. That immediately caught my attention, so much so that I actually forgot about dinner, and asked for more information.

In a staid, matter-of-fact tone, Malcolm told me that female land crabs in the Rock Islands make their way to the sea starting a couple/ few days before the full moon, when the high tide coincides with nightfall, to release their clutch of fertilised eggs into the water.

As it turned out, it was two nights prior to full moon when he told me that. It was also just before nightfall. The tide was almost high. And my camera equipment was anything but ready…Aiyah!

So…just as the female crabs were preparing to head to the waterline, I mumbled something to the effect of “Malcolm, you really have to give me more notice than this.” and scrambled (probably in a crab-like manner to any impartial observer) around our campsite, slapping a camera into a housing, attaching strobes to arms, digging out an underwater light, fumbling with various clamps to put everything together…generally creating a ruckus and working up quite a sweat.

Just as I got everything together, we spotted a single female heading to the water. I rushed over (probably, with multiple strobe arms dangling from my camera housing, appearing crab-like to any impartial observer) and followed her in. She was hesitant at first, but when nature calls, nature calls…so within a few minutes, she did a mad happy-hoppy dance to cast her eggs into the water, getting knocked sideways every once in a while by the surf.

It wasn’t easy holding up my camera rig (I really wish camera equipment could be less heavy) and following the frantic movements of the crab and surf, but I did manage to get a few photos:

A female land crab (Cardisoma sp.) releasing eggs into the surf zone
A female land crab (Cardisoma sp.) releasing eggs into the surf zone

Cardisoma sp. land crab larvae visible at high magnification
Crab larvae visible at high magnification. See the pairs of eyes?

I looked for egg-laden females again the next couple of nights, but as is often the case, when I was actually prepared, nothing happened. C’est la vie.

Wrapping Up
As you’ve no doubt gathered by now, it was an eventful trip. The anecdotes above are just a few highlights of what Terry and I experienced and learned in Palau, thanks to Ron, Malcolm and Jefferson.

Logistically, this was one of the most challenging excursions I’ve done. Since we were on kayaks, we had to carry everything that we needed during the day…masks, snorkels, fins, wetsuits, scuba tanks, BCDs, underwater cameras, land cameras, changes of lenses, etc.

Moreover, everything had to be waterproofed (particularly given my talent for flipping over in calm water), and I had to have rapid access to all my gear, because often, the light and/ or current was just right only for a matter of minutes.

There was a lot of area to cover in much too short of a time, with many of the places Ron wanted to take us requiring pinpoint timing, down to the hour or so. The weather was unseasonably rainy and windy, which put on damper on many of our plans.

At night, the humidity was high, we were covered in salt, sand and sweat…and we had thunderstorms to boot (Lightning struck ground near us a few times, which was a stimulating sensation!).

Which of course meant I didn’t want to break open my cameras or deploy my computer and hard disks. Oh yes…I had my laptop, hard disks, batteries, chargers and lots of other sensitive electronics with me. We had a portable generator (that Sam’s Tours procured just for this trip), which I tried only to fire up every other day, in the early morning, when there was sufficient light for me to see and fully appreciate the myriad ways I could destroy my gear.

Suffice it to say that I was in a constant state of equipment-related anxiety…but it was definitely worth the effort.

Besides gaining first-hand insight into some of the hidden intricacies of the Palauan ecosystem, I made some great friends and had lots of fun, which is, after all, what travel and life should be about.

In all openness, this isn’t the type of trip that everyone will enjoy or should try.

If you’ve never been to Palau, then I’d definitely recommend doing a more standard dive itinerary for your first visit.

But if you’re adventurous, somewhat of a biology geek, enjoy getting out in to the fresh air, and don’t mind being away from the creature comforts of a hotel room, TV, aircon, etc., then this is an adventure of a lifetime. You’ll see, experience and learn so much that it’s hard to take it all in.

If you’d like to learn more about diving in Palau or exploring the Rock Islands by kayak, definitely get in touch with Sam’s Dive Tours.

On that note, it’s time for me to order a beer, as my friends will be showing up soon. I’ll conclude with a few more photographs from the trip, in no particular order:

Terry getting background information from Ron
Terry getting background information from Ron

Chance encounter with a pair of dugongs in Palau
Chance encounter with a pair of dugongs in Palau

Ron sitting on the remains of Japanese artillery from WWII
Ron sitting on the remains of Japanese artillery from WWII

We came across a pod of short-finned pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus)
We came across a pod of short-finned pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus)

Terry Ward with fish in Palau
Terry had me worried at one point

Ron, Terry and me just before going up with Palau Helicopters to take a tour over the Rock Islands
Ron, Terry and me just before going up with Palau Helicopters
to take a tour over the Rock Islands…Thanks Matt!

Samarai Blue

Here’s a short video clip I just put together showing what it was like to dive under the jetty at Samarai Island.

I took the video footage when it was cloudy overhead, so the light was diffuse and whitish, plus there was quite a bit of contrast between the dark, nearly black, areas under the jetty and the harshly lit patches of water. Did the best I could picking angles to minimise the conflict between light and dark.

I shot with a Canon 7D camera and Tokina 10-17mm wide zoom lens, using a Zillion housing and Pro One dome port. For lighting, I used two Light and Motion Sola 1200 lights, mainly just to add highlights to fish that swam close to me.

I also used the recently released Technicolor CineStyle picture profile. I think it may have helped with capturing greater detail in the wide range of light values, though I didn’t shoot any footage with other profiles for comparison.

Hope you enjoy the video. There certainly were a lot(!) of fish.

Motion and Form

The jetty at Samarai Island in Milne Bay was red-hot during my recent visit to Papua New Guinea.

There were multiple swarms of thousands of fish, including aggregations of hardyhead silversides (Atherinomorus lacunosus) like the one pictured below so enormous that referring to them as “schools” seems inadequate. “Universities” would be more like it.

Robust silversides (Atherinomorus lacunosus), Samarai Island, Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea
Thousands of swirling silversides circling around a coral-encrusted
jetty post at Samarai Island in Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea

The currents weren’t too bad; the water was shallow; and the fish never strayed far from the relative safety of the areas under and around the jetties…so it was the perfect opportunity to concentrate on photographing broad, sweeping movements of multitudes of fish.

Which is precisely what we did, since encountering tens of thousands of fish in ideal photographic conditions isn’t an everyday occurrence.

If you find yourself at Samarai when the fish are around, or in a similar situation elsewhere, keep this in mind: The key to taking memorable photographs of such massive aggregations of fish is to snap the shutter at the precise instant that the seemingly haphazard motions of thousands of individual fish transcend chaos and coalesce into a recognisable pattern…a shape that evokes the magnificence of their collective existence.

There’s a heap of waiting and frustration involved, but it’s worth the effort if you capture the right moment:

Hardyhead silversides (Atherinomorus lacunosus), Samarai Island, Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea
Large schools of fish like these hardyhead silversides (Atherinomorus lacunosus)
at Samarai Island make for excellent subjects to depict motion and form

Incidentally…Julian Cohen, who was on Golden Dawn with me for the entire month of the trip, took some really nice photos of the friendly fish at Samarai and other subjects as well. He just contributed an article about our Milne Bay adventure to the latest issue of Underwater Photography Magazine, which is published by Peter Rowlands.

With Peter’s permission, I’ve clipped Julian’s four-page article from the issue to repost here: Julian’s PNG Article from UwP61 Jul/Aug 2011 (right-click to download). It’s worth a read, as Julian’s discussion and photographs provide an excellent overview of many of our trip highlights.

Please visit the Underwater Photography Magazine site to download the rest of issue 61 and peruse back issues.

Dinah With Her Gobies

Bob made a print of one of my Lubricogobius dinah goby photos to give to his wife, and just forwarded me this terrific snapshot of Dinah with her namesake fish:

Dinah Halstead with photo of Dinah's gobies from Milne Bay
Dinah Halstead with pair of Dinah’s gobies from Milne Bay

The print hangs on the hook that’s just visible on the wall behind Dinah, next to a drawing by Valerie Taylor.

This picture represents the culmination of ten years of obsession for me.

I must have come across a reference to Lubricogobius dinah when Randall and Senou published a description of the species in 2000-2001, and ever since then, I’ve been hoping for an opportunity to see and photograph these adorable fish.

I met Dinah in early 2006, when she, Bob and I were on MV Chertan together for a TV project. And finally, in 2011, I succeeded in taking pretty photographs of these fish to help bring a lovely smile to Dinah’s face.

Nice.