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Khun Nat

I’m in Bangkok now, for the Thailand Travel and Dive Expo, which was postponed from the originally planned dates in May this year.

Visiting Thailand is always lots of fun.

Today…while not preoccupied eating/ digesting far too much food…I walked around saying hello to friends, including my fellow photographer Nat Sumanatemeya.

Nat Sumanatemeya

Khun Nat is well-known in Thailand, and he’s a terrific guy to boot. If you visit TDEX this weekend, be sure to check out the gallery of his images and DSLR video footage on display just before you enter the exhibition hall!

Behind The Scenes

In the process of cleaning up my folders, files and such after wrapping up the editing for my Eastern Fields video, I came across this snapshot I took of Craig right after I finished interviewing him:

craig dewit

What you see in the foreground is a Canon 5D Mark II with a 17-40mm zoom lens, which I used to record the interview.

The furry thing on top is a Sennheiser MKE-400 shotgun microphone, which helped to reduce distraction from ambient noise (engine, aircon, people yelling, boat horns, etc.).

I mounted the camera on Golden Dawn’s steering wheel using a Gorillapod…certainly not the ideal configuration for the purpose!

But I didn’t have a proper tripod, so I had to make do with what was available, and the steering wheel was the only platform with sufficient height to get the angle of view I wanted. Balancing the camera and keeping it from flopping left and right was a bit of a challenge.

Doing the interview was probably the most difficult part of gathering material for the video. I knew that I wanted to get footage of Craig describing his personal experiences and feelings about the Eastern Fields to use as the backbone of the storyline.

But Craig is incredibly camera-shy, and kept coming up with excuses to avoid being interviewed. Finally, when he ran out of excuses, I had to wait a good 30 minutes while he showered, shaved, powdered his nose, and otherwise tried (in vain) to pretty himself up.

In case you’re interested, I set exposure and focus manually, striving for low depth of field. I think the aperture was something like f5.0, or thereabouts. Shutter would have been around 1/60 to 1/100. The frame rate was 30fps by default. I think ISO was 400, and the biggest technical challenge I had was controlling the overblown areas behind Craig.

I recorded the interview prior to having manual control of audio gain (a function which came with a later firmware upgrade), so it was paramount to keep ambient sound levels constant. Fortunately, no one else was around, and it was a quiet day in port, so we did everything in a single take per question, over a period of about 20 minutes.

Now…lest you get the (mis)impression that Craig always appears as Captain-like as I so deftly portrayed him, allow me to point out that you’re more likely to spot Craig in situations like this:

craig dewit
(Note: I didn’t take this picture. I don’t know who did. The file came from Craig. I bet he’ll regret giving me a copy after he sees this.)

Lost in Translation

I just received the following photo from my friend Dr John Potter:

hydrophone

More interesting than the photo is John’s “explanation” of what this is:

“The picture is of a 30m long oil-filled tube containing an array of 4 state-of-the-art hydrophones with preamplifiers, spaced 2m apart (hence the aperture of the active part is 6m). The oil-filled tube allows the array to be neutrally buoyant and either towed or hung vertically in the water with the minimum pickup of flow noise. There is also a portable 96 kSa/s 4-channel recorder in the centre of the image that will record sounds up to 48 kHz from the array onto an SD card. Since the oil-filled tube is 30m long, we can deploy the 4 hydrophones at the depth of our choice up to about 20m below the surface. This will allow us to record humpback sound at close range, without disturbing the whales, with the highest quality and with the possibility to measure their range and source levels. Think of the 4 hydrophones as being able to record a kind of surround-sound, hyper-stereo, THX acoustic landscape.”

After reading this a couple of times, I think it means: “It’s a kick-a** hydrophone that we can send down to 20 metres and record really cool whale sounds.” though I’m not entirely certain.

Anyway, we’ll be using this high-tech gadget on the trips that John and I are running together in Tonga soon, with the objective of kicking off what we hope will be a long-running project to understand more about acoustic communication among humpback whales. (More explanation about our trip/ project here.)

There are still a couple of spots left on the first trip from 29 July to 4 August. Drop me a line if you’re interested in helping me decipher John-speak for a few days.

Adventures With Craig

For the past couple of weeks, I’ve been completely occupied putting the following video together:


Downloadable copy available via my iTunes podcast. Music by Alain Thomas via Musicalley.com

I shot all of the video footage and most of the photos during a month-long stay in Papua New Guinea last year aboard the MV Golden Dawn, a trip I co-organised with Eric Cheng and Wetpixel.

Of note…I captured all the video footage with DSLR cameras, using a Canon 5D Mark II underwater and a Canon 7D topside. This is also the first time I’ve edited anything with Final Cut Pro and Motion, both part of Apple’s Final Cut Studio software collection. (So cut me some slack if you see mistakes/ areas for improvement! I think I did an excellent job of making Craig look. No simple task by any means.)

In case it’s not obvious, the waters of Papua New Guinea are absolutely amazing. I’m planning a few more trips with Craig for June 2011 and January 2012. We’re still ironing out specifics, but check back soon for details!

Note: For contrast and comparison, here’s another video I posted earlier from the same trip, with footage taken with a very different type of camera.

Of Humpbacks and Humans

This is a true story.

Like most stories worth telling, there is a point. Several, in fact.

The Tragedy
On 11 August 2009, I and a bunch of friends from Japan encountered an injured humpback whale in the waters of Vava’u in the Kingdom of Tonga.

It was just the sort of day for a tragedy. The skies were grey and overcast; the seas a drab, murky mess; visibility both in and out of the water low; the prevailing mood “depressed”.

Sighting whales was, of course, the reason we were out and about, so finding a pair of approachable whales was a good thing. Or so it seemed.

Not long after entering the water, we noticed that something was wrong. With poor visibility, it was difficult at first to pinpoint precisely what that “something” was, but once the whales passed within close proximity, it was obvious.

injured humpback whale

One of the whales was hog-tied. Its pectoral fins were bound to its side, and the rope or netting had sliced into the animal’s body. The injured cetacean was weak. It couldn’t swim properly. It was covered with parasites. And there were sharks circling…waiting, no doubt, for an easy meal. The scene was heart-wrenching.

Despite my desire to stick with the whales, I pulled everyone out of the water in short order. Several large bronze whaler sharks shot up at high speed from the murky depths and buzzed us. The conditions were ideal for sharks on the prowl, not so good for land-lubbers flopping around at the surface.

Back on the boat, we followed for some time, long enough to see that the uninjured whale stayed with the injured one, perhaps protecting it, perhaps hoping for a miracle. Difficult to know for sure.

The injured whale was a female. It was, without question, about to die.

injured humpback whale

The Drama
As shocking and depressing as our experience had been, the real story took place after we got back on land.

News of our encounter spread quickly through the community. By the time we washed up and went to dinner, many people in town had heard about the encounter, though…as is often the case…the specific details of our experience seemed to become more distorted with each re-telling of the tale.

Several people, expats who live and/ or work in Vava’u, informed us that they knew who was responsible for the doomed whale’s plight.

To elaborate, they told us that it was the practice of some villages in the area to use nets to catch sea turtles for food.

They further informed us that many of the expats had been trying to teach the locals about why turtle nets are a no-no.

Slaughtering endangered sea turtles and ruining reefs was bad enough, but now…it was obvious that someone’s turtle net had killed a humpback whale! This, of course, was an unforgiveable transgression.

Person after person agreed, and a bit of a mob mentality developed. Emotions escalated. Indignation permeated. Within short order, several people asked us to give them copies of our photos so that they could use the images to educate the locals.

Actually, “asked” doesn’t convey the correct connotation. “Demanded” is more accurate.

There were, of course, some polite requests, but one woman (a person we hadn’t previously spoke with) in particular became quite agitated. She insisted that we hand over our photos because, well…it was for a “non-profit” cause. Emphasising repeatedly that her demands were for a “non-profit” purpose, she produced a USB memory device and stuck it in one of my friend’s faces saying “Put the files on this” in an emphatic tone.

Yes…she stuck a memory device in his face and demanded that he give his photos to her. That very instant. Or else. She pouted and stammered a few times to underscore how serious she was.

Given that we hadn’t even had time to look at the images ourselves and were still trying to process what exactly we had witnessed, I didn’t think it appropriate to hand anything over, and I particularly didn’t think that we should be “educating” the locals quite just yet.

We declined the requests several times in a graceful manner, until that particularly demanding woman became so obnoxious and unbearable that I set aside all pretence of polite social discourse and put an abrupt, unambiguous stop to the insanity. The audience dispersed.

In the ensuing days, I had time to examine the photos closely. I went out of my way to ask about turtle nets. I tried, in vain, to set up a meeting to see an actual turtle net (seems like they’re not that common). I showed fishermen (both local and expat) the photos and asked their opinions.

Eventually, I concluded that the net was not a net. It was a longline. At 100% magnification, the metal clips characteristic of longline fishing were obvious in many of the photographs. The fishermen I consulted agreed.

This, of course, made much more sense. Humpback whales travel long, long distances in the open ocean. Fishing fleets set longlines in the open ocean. Villagers, to the extent they use turtle nets, wouldn’t be using them in open ocean. They would more likely use them in coastal waters.

The chances of a whale getting entangled in an industrial-strength, open-ocean longline are much greater than in a handmade net set near the coast.

The Lessons
Everyone was upset about the tragic, pointless death of the whale. Rightly so.

The people who became distraught and unreasonable were good people who just got carried away. It happens.

But I learned some things about human nature and behaviour from the experience. Things I wanted to jot down so I don’t forget, and also to guide my own conduct if I should ever again find myself in a similar situation.

1. Don’t ever assume anything. Get the facts. Think things through. Then draw conclusions.

The expats in this story assumed, with zero evidence, that local villagers were responsible for the death of a humpback whale. They were, in effect, ready to lynch the locals for killing the animal.

The problem is that they formed their views based on emotion, not fact.

Longline fishing is the practice of rich, industrialised countries. So if someone were looking to assign blame, it would be the expats and tourists (me included) from rich industrialised countries who were more closely associated with the whale’s death than the local villagers.

Discouraging the use of turtle nets might be a valid issue. But it had nothing…absolutely nothing…to do with the plight of the poor humpback whale we encountered.

2. Always avoid mobs.

Person after person piled on and agreed that local villagers were responsible for the death of an innocent whale. The thing is, of the people tossing around accusations, none…not a one…had seen the whale in question.

Herd mentality is bad, and it’s much too easy to get swept away in the moment if you cede self-control and good judgement to a mob.

3. Using the term “non-profit” does not mean you can demand anything you want.

The woman who was so indignant that we didn’t immediatley hand over all our photos as soon as she mentioned the term “non-profit” was clearly under the impression that using the term “non-profit” gives you a license to steal.

Yes, demanding property that isn’t yours is theft.

I encounter this mentality with disturbing regularity. Many people seem to believe that simply being a non-profit entity, or worse, just stating an intention to undertake something in a “non-profit” manner entitles you to demand stuff for free…especially photographs.

The woman in question owns a yacht, along with her husband. Had I demanded the unconditional and immediate use of her yacht for “non-profit” research, I’m sure she would have balked at the suggestion.

And yet, she was, and perhaps may still be, entirely convinced of her right to appropriate other people’s property simply by labelling her demand as “non-profit”.

That, in my book, is a “non-starter”.

My Silly Friends at Kasawari

As usual, I had a terrific stay at Kasawari Lembeh Resort…a long one this time, just over three weeks.

It always feels like home at the resort, due entirely to the warmth of the people who work here.

kasawari staff

A group picture is great, but video is much better at conveying the way things are here. I had to coax a little silliness from the gang, but actually, they’re always like this!

Thanks for a great stay, and see you again soon!

Meeting Mike

There are some really strange things in Lembeh. Take Mike for example.

Mike Veitch

Mike is the manager at NAD-Lembeh Dive Resort. He’s been kind enough to invite me over to NAD several times, but I’ve never actually made it over there until tonight (actually, I’ve totally been avoiding him, on the advice of mutual acquaintances).

Mike is from Canada. As if that weren’t sufficient reason to give him wide berth, Mike has been alone for a long time, stuck on a small island in Indonesia.

He is, let’s say, desperate for companionship.

…which is why I was quite happy that Hergen (who is the manager at Lembeh Resort) was also present for the evening.

Hergen is cuter than I am (at least in Mike’s eyes), so he bore the brunt of Mike’s misguided affections.

Mike and Hergen

Not long after I took this photo, Hergen wisely rushed back to his wife at Lembeh Resort, and I fled returned to Kasawari Lembeh Resort, leaving Mike…once again…frustrated and alone.

Note to Mike: This is what you get for inviting me over!

All Work and No Play?

After something on the order of 30 hours on the road and in the air, I arrived safe and sound for a brief stopover in San Francisco before I head down to Mexico.

Despite the concerns I had about travelling to and transiting through the US, everything went smoothly. There were more body checks than usual, but nothing excessive. Best of all, my baggage made it through the transfer in Los Angeles with no problems. Hurray!

Eric picked me up at the airport, and after a delicious and much-needed meal at a local Thai restaurant (where I had my favourite dish phad kaprao gai, with khai dao), we went back to his place…where we immediately got to work.

me

While it may not appear from this snapshot as if I’m engaged in a serious endeavour, I was actually looking through a pair of diopters that Keri Wilk from ReefNet sent over for me to use in Lembeh later this year. (Eric posted a 3-D version of this photo).

I’ve actually ordered (but not yet received) a pair of these, so Keri was nice enough to lend this set to me in advance of my units being delivered. The diopters are +5 and +10 power, and I was looking through them to view the relative difference in magnification. They have a 67mm thread, which means they’ll fit directly onto my macro ports. Can’t wait to try them out!

diopters

Eric also had to engrave his name and signature for a couple of prints he sold, but he encountered a few minor technical difficulties due to a mismatch of Dremel bits (No, I didn’t know what a Dremel was until Eric pulled one out):

…and to round things out, we ended the evening with a practical lesson in aerodynamics:

Missing Mojo

It’s Christmas morning. I was searching for a suitably festive image to post for the holidays, when I stopped and thought: “Nah, that’s boring. Everyone does that.”, and I decided to post something silly instead.

Phil immediately came to mind.

Phil was one of my fellow travellers aboard the MV Golden Dawn on my recent trip to PNG. He was a constant and reliable source of entertainment (the term “court jester” springs to mind), as is evident from this montage of Phil searching for his photographic mojo during the first day or two of the trip:

phil

Despite his resemblance to Dr Evil, Phil is actually much more of an Austin-Powers-type personality.

In case you were wondering, Phil located his misplaced mojo at some stage, as he stopped waving his hands around like a deranged supervillain…though he commenced singing excerpts from cheesy ’80s pop songs at random intervals.

Happy Holidays!

Reality Check

It’s been a hectic couple of days getting ready for the first group of people who’ll be getting on Golden Dawn with me. Captain Craig and the crew have been busy prepping the boat, and I’ve been helping out where I can. Everything’s looking good, and we’ll be picking passengers up at the airport and from Lololata Island Resort tomorrow.

In the midst of all the activity, Craig took me to see a little girl he’s been helping. Her name is Gaudi. She has meningitis…an infection that affects the outside of the brain. Gaudi just turned one year old recently, and she’s been sick for about four months.

Gaudi’s father Naume asked Craig for help when his daughter fell ill, and Craig, being the incredibly nice guy he is, has been sending money for the past four months…without ever having seen Gaudi.

Given that Craig has paid a lot of money over the past four months, you’d think Gaudi’s family were long-time friends of his. No. Craig met Naume, Gaudi’s father, only about a year ago. Craig had a bit of car trouble, and Naume happened to wander by with some mates and helped out. Naume catches and sells crabs for a living, so Craig has been buying crabs from him ever since.

That was the extent of their relationship.

Craig visited Gaudi in the hospital for the first time about ten days ago, and as he described it, was heartbroken by the sight. Little Gaudi was frozen stiff in pain, entirely unable to function.

When I saw her today, she was better. There was recognition in her eyes, and she even grabbed my finger…holding tight, if only for a moment. She’s still weak, but the medicine that Craig’s been paying for is apparently working. Gaudi is getting better.

It’s easy to get absorbed in our own lives, our own problems…all the tasks at hand. But experiences like this are a vital reality check…a reminder of the importance of helping other people. I’m not sure how much longer it’ll take for Gaudi to get better, but Craig’s committed to seeing her through to recovery.

AlI told, I spent about half an hour with Naume and his family at the hospital. I put together this little video for Craig to show passengers on Golden Dawn, in case any of his clients decide to chip in for Gaudi’s medicine. The people who were on Craig’s last cruise contributed about US$170, which will go a long way to sustaining Gaudi through her recovery.

The Last Supper

A few weeks ago, I welcomed Eric, Julia, Douglas and Emily to Japan for the start of our quest to photograph and video sperm whales by taking them to dinner at a small sushi restaurant outside Tokyo.

Our trip was a wild success, and Eric and Julia have already gone back. Tonight, we had dinner with Douglas and Emily to say goodbye, as they’ll be boarding a plane for the long trip home tomorrow. Tom, one of Douglas’s friends from high school, joined us too.

kushiyaki

I took them to a small kushiyaki restaurant called Kushihana (串花) in Nishi-azabu. In case you’re not familiar with kushiyaki cuisine, it’s basically delicious bite-sized morsels of stuff skewered and deep-fried on little sticks, generally washed down with copious quantities of beer, shochu, or whatever other form of alcohol is on hand.

Nishi-azabu a swank neighborhood in Tokyo with lots of fancy shops, restaurants and clubs, but this place is quaint and cozy, and just about everyone who goes there is a diver. The owner is a diver and a big fan of underwater photography, so it seemed like an appropriate place for our last dinner together.

Of course, we couldn’t let the evening go by without a bit of fun…at Douglas’s expense:

I’m sure Douglas had a nagging feeling that he was being set up, but he was a good sport and played along, much to the amusement of all the other people in the restaurant (who were all in on the gag).

If you’re ever in Tokyo and feel like going to a small place that’s not packed with tourists and socialites, this is a map to Kushihana, and the address is Minato-ku, Nishiazabu 4-2-15, 106-0031 (港区西麻布4-2-15, 106-0031). You have to speak Japanese though.

And make sure you visit the bathroom, where one of my sperm whale photos is on display.

The First Supper

My first dinner together with the small group of brave adventurers about to set off in search of sperm whales. Location…my favourite hidden-away sushi place just outside Tokyo, where the food is always fresh and there are never any tourists:

dinner